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Triangle of death and scangauge

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by wwu123, Aug 9, 2010.

  1. andyprius

    andyprius Senior Member

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    I may be totally wrong but aren't you quoting the Gen II HV voltage? The Gen I is quite a bit higher, something less than 100 more volts. BW knows all those numbers cold.:confused:
     
  2. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    These look OK although 13.8-13.9 would be closer to my tastes.

    The 212 V traction voltage seems off but I've got my Auto Enginuity with me this evening. This is one of those cases where it could be the instrument, the car but the traction battery seems improbable. I've never really studied traction battery voltage except to calculate energy flows. I'll check some of my recorded Graham Miniscanner data files later tonight.

    Bob Wilson
     
  3. vincent1449p

    vincent1449p Active Member

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    First, to clarify ignition-on. There are 5 positions on the key cylinder:

    1) LOCK - to lock steering wheel
    2) OFF - key can be removed
    3) ACC - Accessory mode
    4) ON - Ignition-on mode, Ready light is off, engine cannot be started
    5) START (momentarily) - Ready light is on, engine can start anytime

    In a conventional ICE-only car, ignition-on would mean engine is running. But for a hybrid car, engine can stop and start as required, hence it is important to note the status of Ready light.

    When you switched to Accessory mode, the SMR will disconnect the HV battery and Ready light will be off. You can read about SMR here:

    http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/Hybrid03.pdf

    As what you 've mentioned in another post, the 212V is likely due to transient. I've observed varying voltages too. Now, if you pressed the Home button to wake up SG and check btV again (you need to cycle the button to refresh btV) , it should be blank.

    When the car is Ready-on, the voltage reading of the 12V battery is actually measuring the DC-DC converter output that is charging it. Mine is about 14.0V. When it is Ready-off, the HV Battery is disconnected so no output from DC-DC converter. What you see now is the actual output from the Aux. battery.

    The ic1-ic5 are newly discovered XGauge so it was not in the tables. It was posted on the same thread at post #67.

    Here are the suspected INF. code:

    Column 1 Column 2 Column 3 Column 4 Column 5 Column 6 Column 7
    0 XGauge TXD RXF RXD MTH NAME Notes
    1 INFO. Code 1 8216F101AA 0316044105AA 2810 000100010000 ic1 XXX
    2 INFO. Code 2 8216F101B1 0316044105B1 2810 000100010000 ic2 XXX
    3 INFO. Code 3 8216F101B7 0316044105B7 2810 000100010000 ic3 XXX
    4 INFO. Code 4 8216F101BD 0316044105BD 2810 000100010000 ic4 XXX
    5 INFO. Code 5 8216F101DF 0316044105DF 2810 000100010000 ic5 XXX


    I've tried to induce an error but I would need more data to confirm.
     
  4. vincent1449p

    vincent1449p Active Member

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    I think it is possible to query the various ECU for DTC. I've not tried it since my car has not logged any yet.

    Here are some new Xgauges (not tested):

    Column 1 Column 2 Column 3 Column 4 Column 5 Column 6 Column 7
    0 XGauge TXD RXF RXD MTH NAME Notes
    1 MIL illumination 8210F10101 031024410501 2801 000100010000 MIL OFF / ON
    2 No. of Engine DTCs 8210F10101 031004410501 2907 000100010000 #EC XXX
    3 MIL illumination 8216F10101 031624410501 2801 000100010000 MIL OFF / ON
    4 No. of HV DTCs 8216F10101 031604410501 2907 000100010000 #HC XXX
    5 MIL illumination 82D5F10101 03D524410501 2801 000100010000 MIL OFF / ON
    6 No. of Battery DTCs 82D5F10101 03D504410501 2907 000100010000 #BC XXX
    7 Engine DTC 1 8110F103 03101443 2010 000100010000 ec1 XXXX hex.
    8 Engine DTC 2 8110F103 03101443 3010 000100010000 ec2 XXXX hex.
    9 Engine DTC 3 8110F103 03101443 4010 000100010000 ec3 XXXX hex.
    10 HV DTC 1 8116F103 03161443 2010 000100010000 hc1 XXXX hex.
    11 HV DTC 2 8116F103 03161443 3010 000100010000 hc2 XXXX hex.
    12 HV DTC 3 8116F103 03161443 4010 000100010000 hc3 XXXX hex.
    13 Battery DTC 1 81D5F103 03D51443 2010 000100010000 bc1 XXXX hex.
    14 Battery DTC 2 81D5F103 03D51443 3010 000100010000 bc2 XXXX hex.
    15 Battery DTC 3 81D5F103 03D51443 4010 000100010000 bc3 XXXX hex.


    The DTC are Bit-encoded. See here:

    OBD-II PIDs - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
     
  5. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    Using Auto Enginuity, we may have a clue about the 215 V. traction battery:
    [​IMG]
    I configured Auto Enginuity to record the HV battery ECU data. The first surprise is it has no single voltage metric. However, I could record all 19 modules. So I used a spreadsheet to sum all modules and discovered that turning off the car gave only a partial number of modules and the final sum was ~215 V (see chart.)

    I'm going to speculate that the battery ECU may only report the 19 module voltages and the HV ECU may do the sum to report the total traction battery voltage. During vehicle shutdown, some controllers may turn off sooner, say the battery ECU, delivering only a partial count of module voltages. The HV ECU can only sum the available data. But the SG may not 'clear' the last value. So during shutdown there may be a race condition that leads to abnormally low, traction battery voltage.

    I also recorded the minimum and maximum voltages as well as the module identifier:
    [​IMG]
    Off hand, I don't see a problem as the weakest modules are spread throughout the pack. There is one 'super set' that could be discharge trimmed down but nothing worth spending a lot time.

    Here is the map of min/max voltages and current:
    [​IMG]
    I was surprised to see the minimum/maximum battery voltages flip in the data. This suggests transients can significantly impact how these are reported.

    Bob Wilson
     
  6. w2co

    w2co Member

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    I agree with the outliers in data points being caused by transients, and I filter them out in Excel.
    Below is a graph done not too long ago, of an 03Prius Original Traction Battery hi and low block voltages sitting overnight just before start, and then captured the voltage sag from the start itself. The charge cycle I believe starts immediately afterwards..
    [​IMG]
     
  7. w2co

    w2co Member

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    And here's a plot of a short drive while recording hi/lo block voltages. You can see the initial start sag, then during the drive, regen braking can be seen as the dominant charge factor.
    [​IMG]
     
  8. w2co

    w2co Member

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    In the last plot the dip to 14V on the low block is from a hard acceleration. Looks like that module drops during accels more than any other in the pack. Perhaps this signals the end of this 8 year old pack is near.
     
  9. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    Could you capture the block numbers of the low and high blocks? Something like this:
    [​IMG]
    Granted, we don't have a properly instrument, pre-failure battery survey. Still, the failure records usually show just one module in a pair fails first. I would expect that module-pair to show a higher frequency of low-voltage hits in graph.

    One surprise, I found P3002 in the battery ECU. I had induced some codes to test the other scanners. Now I need to go back, read all the codes and retest with the CEN-TECH and Graham Miniscanner. FYI, nice write-up here.

    Bob Wilson
     
  10. wwu123

    wwu123 Junior Member

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    Tons of interesting info here. I didn't have time yesterday to collect anything, but today I was able to gather a bunch of new data. First, I had two events:
    1) Funny the very last comment was on P3002. This afternoon I had a brief scare where the car wouldn't start the ICE with the key three consecutive times. (In normal times, occasionally it'll just balk once with the key but start on the 2nd try.) It also threw the triangle on me. I'm wondering if this was merely due to the Scangauge, as I disconnected it and it started right up. Next time I connected it I found a P0000 and a P3002.
    2) Yesterday I did get the triangle thrown, but the Scangauge couldn't pick up any codes. I'll try the new XGauge values from Vincent to try to read codes directly from the ECU's via the XGauges next time.

    As for the XGauge values, here are additional values:
    ic1-ic5: I get 0 for all of these, and it never changes, what do these measure?
    R1-R19: All blocks are reading 21-22 mOhms, except R17 is at 20. These values did not fluctuate at all while driving.
    V1-V19: I haven't gotten a chance to measure these individually yet, but if Vlo and Vhi are accurate, I'm not seeing any sharp dips in Vlo compared to Vhi (always within 0.2-0.3 volts). If there are any sharp dips, they are too quick for the Scangauge sampling to pick up. Both go up and down with driving typically like w2co's graphs show.
    Blo and Bhi (lowest and highest block numbers for voltage): Blo is mostly 8, although on one sample it was 12. Bhi is usually 1, once or twice it was 19. None of these was 17, the lowest resistance block.
    SOC: continues to mostly stay between 60-65% in normal city driving, will fluctuate more with harder acceleration and varying conditions.
    VLT: Aux battery voltage was a bit lower at 12.1 with the engine off
    bTV: Still around 308 +/- with engine on or ready on. I tried to measure it at ignition on, confirmed Scangauge does not collect any updated values (although it does seem to be updating VLT and some other values in ignition on position).

    Overall car driving behavior seems fine and mileage from the computer seems to be as normal.
     
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  11. vincent1449p

    vincent1449p Active Member

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    Those are supposedly the Infomation Code or subcode. If you got 0, that means no subcode has been logged. You don't have to keep monitoring these, only when you suspect something is not right, then check what is there to give you some clue.

    Mine are mostly 21 mOhms with a few at 20 and 22 mOhms. So your values look alright.

    My Vlo and Vhi are also within 0.2V~0.3V. I can't remember the exact Blo and Bhi but I know some of the blocks tends to appear only at Blo and some at Bhi. I don't think it is a problem if your Blo is always the same block unless you are also seeing more than 1.2V difference for Vlo and Vhi.

    Your SOC is higher than mine. Do you have many hills in your commute?

    Normal. My stock Aux battery is even lower at 10+ V. I've a portable jump start kit just in case.

    So far, all your data seems normal to me. I suggest keep yourself familiarized with all other Xgauges and their normal values. If the triangle come back again, you can find out what has changed.
     
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  12. wwu123

    wwu123 Junior Member

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    There are some shallow elevation changes around my neighborhood (200-300 feet over a half-mile), but I think my car just targets SOC around 60-65% as "full". If I'm getting regen at the end of a downward leg, it'll go even higher to 70%.

    The triangles have become few and far between now; whatever was causing them appears to have abated, as it seems like the Scangauge is confirming everything is operating normally. It certainly seems no major component is having a drastic failure.


    There's not much humidity in San Jose, but it does cool down at night, and the car was parked outdoors. I'm wondering in fact if condensation combined with some possible corrosion over multiple nights had caused some of the modules to short and lose much of their stored charge?

    Would it then be the case that it may have taken quite a number of trips to fully recharge them, since all the modules have to be either charging or discharging together? If so that would fit the pattern saw where the triangle would show up at longer and longer intervals, until I get to the current state where all the modules are now again showing the same level of voltage?

    I hope it is corrosion or condensation, because those are treatable issues, and I wouldn't be looking at thousands to replace a main component.
     
  13. wwu123

    wwu123 Junior Member

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    Got another triangle this morning. Scangauge was not able to pull any codes directly.

    With the XGauges I did find a subcode 123 on ic1. However, #ec, #hc, #bc all read 0 DTC's. I looked at HC1 (HV DTC 1) and it just read 0000.
     
  14. vincent1449p

    vincent1449p Active Member

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    According to the RM, INF. Code 123 means HV Battery Malfunction - Input of abnormal signal from battery ECU (HV battery system malfunction).

    Together with your previous P3002 - No serial signals transmitted from HV ECU, it is highly likely that the communication bus line has intermittent open/short circuit. If checked OK, then your HV ECU could be sending wrong signals or not sending the right signals to the battery ECU.
     

    Attached Files:

  15. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    The battery connectors are at the rear on the driver side:
    [​IMG]

    The HV connectors are under the passenger side, upper foot rest.

    FYI, I also got a P3002 recently but have no idea how. I've cleared it and will wait for it to come back.

    Bob Wilson
     
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  16. wwu123

    wwu123 Junior Member

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    Had the car checked out by Luscious Garage today as scheduled. Great place, the shop was full of Gen 2's, the charge for diagnosis was very fair. Also as Web 2.0 and SOMA (south of Market) as an automotive shop can get (what other garage has you create a web account to have your car serviced?).

    They did a HV battery test as indicated here: Luscious Garage | Blog | High Voltage Battery Test - Gen 1 Prius with results similar to the bad battery example graph. Basically my HV battery is old and slowly dying, when they draw the SOC down, the spread between the low voltage and high voltage grows from 0.3 to 0.5, and delta SOC starts to climb way up.

    However, that didn't really explain the error codes I've been getting, the last triangle from a few days ago had disappeared already, but they did pull a P3000 and P3009 (HV battery leak to ground). However, for my aging battery, they didn't immediately recommend it was worth pulling it apart to find if it could be isolated to battery corrosion or transaxle or other possible leak points that are fixable.

    So for the codes, they recommended continuing to monitor the situation for more reproducible code siutations, and for the battery to keep the car driven and exercised regularly.

    So I'm going to keep driving and monitoring with the Scangauge, but other than the warning lights, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. I may take a look at the HV battery for corrosion one weekend - I already have the backseat removable to fit longer cargo.

    Is there a way the Scangauge can read or clear P3000 (from the engine ECU) or P3009 (from the HV ECU) though? The Scangauge scan doesn't find any codes, and the XGauges from Vincent show 0 for the # of DTC's for the ECU's, and no DTC values.
     
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  17. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    Last night as I was going to sleep, I realized that you should be able to fault-isolate a P3009 using a modern, high-impedance, DVM, not a 20,000 ohm per volt, mechanical meter. The usual practice is to use a MEGGER that uses a high voltage to measure high resistance shorts but the traction battery already provides significant voltages.

    After appropriate safety precautions, remove the cover and starting from each end, measure the voltage between the case and the end terminal. If you get a steady voltage, you are measuring the voltage loop from the probe, down the battery pack, the resistance trace to ground, and ground. The offset should be:
    measured_V / 7.2 ~= offset_to_leak
    The safety precautions should include removing the interlock but for good measure, disconnecting the 12 V battery ground to ensure nothing can even attempt to enable the main power relays. In this mode, the traction battery consists of:

    • 20 cells, ~144 VDC
    • 18 cells, ~130 VDC
    • 0 VDC at leaking module terminal
    Having fault-isolated the leaking module, there are two alternatives:

    • remove, module(s), clean and put back (UGH!)
    • replace module(s), tricky because the charge needs to be normalized and we'll never know the Ahr capacity versus the other modules (UGH!)
    So you have options but thinking about the P3009, it looks like we can fault isolate to a specific module with just a DVM.

    Bob Wilson
     
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  18. wwu123

    wwu123 Junior Member

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    Thought I'd just post an update to my thread to keep the Gen 1 knowledgebase going, in the hopes it may contribute to helping others down the road. To summarize where things left off five months ago, with the help of a Scangauge, the helpful folks on this forum, and a professional diagnosis by reputable specialists Luscious Garage, we found:
    1. I have an aging HV battery, which is slowly dying and will eventually need to be replaced, but probably had nothing to do with the problem.
    2. A chronic condition I call Airport Parking Lot syndrome that is annoying but doesn't seem to affect the driveability of the car in any way. Error codes appear when I leave the car for at least 3-5 days in an outdoor parking lot, not every time but maybe 30% of the time.

    I've had at least one more instance since August, I can't tell if there's been more, as once the warning lights go on, they will stay on for over a month before clearing, and thus mask any recurrences for a while.

    The last time it happened in November, I did pay attention to my Scangauge to observe for any additional anomalous readings. When I got back from my trip, got in the car and started it, this is what I observed in sequence:
    -Scangauge came up, and initially the HV battery voltages V1-V19, Vhi, Vlo, in their normal range, for one, maybe two sampling intervals. No warning lights.
    -Immediately the voltages start dropping over several sampling intervals, until they're about one volt lower than normal. During this rapid drop, warning lights come on.
    -Car runs and drives OK, after a few minutes, the voltages have slowly climbed back up to normal again.
    -I don't remember clearly, but I think SOC also follows the same pattern. "Normal" SOC is about 65% for my car - I think that's on the higher side for our Gen 1 age.
    -Six weeks later, the warning lights finally turn off by themselves.

    I've been too lazy - well, more like scared - to go into HV systems, but I do continue to suspect that problem is:
    -some corrosion, dust or other contaminant around one or more cells that could cause a small, slow current leakage
    -condensation during rainy or foggy nights completing or accelerating the leakage over several days, maybe a few 0.1V's per day
    -when the car is first started, there is either some capacitance or hysteresis that causes the computer to initially read the voltages from when the car was last running
    -very quickly the voltage readings correct themselves to the actual correct values
    -causing one of the ECU's to freak out not about the voltage itself, which are still in a normal range of driving values, but the rapid drop in voltage in a few seconds.

    Scangauage wasn't able to scan the error codes still, and the experimental DTC XGauges from August didn't show anything, but it looks like there have been new XGauge values for DTC's since then, so I'll try the new ones sometime.

    So car runs fine and I continue to use it and just ignore the warning lights. My only concern at this point is if there is a slow leak when the car is parked for long periods, that the HV cells could drop low enough where it causes other more serious problems:
    -We just bought a new car for our two-person household, so the Prius is now the backup car, not a daily driver. It's also now parked outside at home, which has colder and wetter conditions. I'm making sure to drive it at least once a week to keep the batteries "exercised".
    -My parents may move to a 2nd home for part of the year, and they like the Prius driveability, so I want to give it to them. But I'm worried if they drive infrequently or leave the car for months that they'll come back to a dead car. But if we go this route, I'd probably have Luscious Garage put in one of their rebuilt HV batteries for ~$2.5K all-in, and the Parking Lot syndrome would probably disappear along with that swap.
     
  19. MelissaAnne

    MelissaAnne New Member

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    Your car missed you and felt neglected and betrayed, thought you were out test driving another car. Watch out, your car may show up at a few murder sites.
     
  20. w2co

    w2co Member

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    "-when the car is first started, there is either some capacitance or hysteresis that causes the computer to initially read the voltages from when the car was last running"
    Yes the sys will retain the last values before last shut down, or until it gets new data. Say this sure sounds like a low 12v battery. If you let a gen1 sit for ten days that battery would be too low, and don't forget all of the monitoring systems in the prius depend on 12v reference being stable, at least at startup before the inverter takes over. just me 2c