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More Battery Problem

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by sarahap, Sep 28, 2010.

  1. sarahap

    sarahap Junior Member

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    I posted my problem on another thread but now have update and more questions.

    I had parked my 2010 Prius in the garage overnight, the next morning it was completely dead. No lights on the dash. Nothing. I don't think I had left a door ajar or the lights on or anything. Can't be sure, though. So the car was dead, I called my Dad, (just like always) because he knows stuff, is an electrical engineer, even has his very own Prius. I thought it would be fun for him to charge it and we were a little afraid together (quality time!). We carefully followed the instructions in the book. Nothing went poof. The car started right away, everything worked fine. Off I went. I took my dad's portable charging thingy just in case.

    Sure enough, I got to work (15-20 minute drive) and turned it off, everything went black again. I used the charger to jump the car again when I left work. This time I drove longer but same result when I turned it off. Black screen. Dead. So lather, rinse, repeat, two more days through Monday. I had to charge it to make it go every time then everything worked fine until I pushed the power button to turn it off (incidentally, cannot lock it then--it stays unlocked when it is dead but it is really dark inside--need a flashlight to steal anything). I took it to the dealership last evening just before they closed.

    The guy from the dealership calls this morning and you can guess what he says. He says that it must have been jumped backwards! (pop! goes my I love Toyota bubble) I told him that was not it, that I followed the directions in the book to the letter, that we sort of knew what we were doing, that he needed to keep looking. I suggested maybe a connection somewhere, a fuse, something like that. He says all the fuses are fine, all the connections are fine. He's going to dig a little deeper, maybe try a different battery, will call back.

    So the questions: If I had jumped it backwards, wouldn't something have gone 'poof'? Like a fuse or something? Or maybe the cables fried? Or surely the computer would not work anymore if I had reversed the charge? Or it would not go at all? Seems if I broke the battery it would not ever let power through to the computer, right? What would indicate that it was charged backwards? Any thoughts?
     
  2. qbee42

    qbee42 My other car is a boat

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    If you jumped it backward, something would have gone poof, like the inverter. Normally you blow the big fuse. If you did jump it backward, it would have been dead from that point onward, not later.

    Tom
     
  3. mort

    mort New Member

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    Hi sarahap,
    I don't understand. This is a 2010; a new car. The 3 year warranty surely covers a battery that won't hold a charge. A good dealer would put in a new battery, under warranty, and apologize for your trouble. A bad dealer would put in a new battery, under warranty, and curse the bad battery, which isn't made by Toyota. Let us know what happens.
    -mort
     
  4. jayvee

    jayvee Member

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    If you had jumped it backwards, It wouldn't have started at all. All of the DC circuits controlling EVERYTHING connected would have been reverse-polarity and would never have functioned, even to start the vehicle. If you had the jump connected when you started the car, you had it right. Your dealer is clueless..
     
  5. JimN

    JimN Let the games begin!

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    Sarahap, here's the thread describing Maintenance Mode: http://priuschat.com/forums/gen-ii-...y-check-without-switching-headlights-off.html

    A better course of action would have been to trickle charge your battery then check the voltages. Once you saw that the battery won't hold a charge then a trip to the dealer is in order but now you can rattle off the low voltage readings to the Service Writer. Knowing what you are talking about seems to cut down the BS. Before leaving the dealer with the new battery check the voltages.

    This should have been 1 relatively short trip. Sorry it's an adventure.
     
  6. sarahap

    sarahap Junior Member

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    Thanks for the replies. I'm past the adventure phase but trying to stay positive. Fortunately, I have a borrowed clunker van so I have transportation.

    The latest developments: Craig (the service guy at the dealership) called back and said that he had switched out the 12v battery and the problem persisted and the battery held a charge. So it was not the battery after all. Next he said they got into taking the floor of the trunk apart and found there was "evidence" the car had been in an accident. It's true. I was rear-ended about two months ago and the the rear bumper was replaced as well as most of the plastic stuff back there. I had not tried to conceal this from them, just did not see the relevance. Gieco had a body shop do the work and it looked okay to me. I had even been back to the dealership for my first scheduled maintenance since then and asked them to take a good hard look at the suspension and alignment to make sure they liked the work that had been done. They found no problem then.

    So anyway, he said that any warranty was voided because of this action and suggested that I re-open my insurance claim because he needed to do 5 hours of diagnostic work and most likely there was damage to either the harness or the battery due to the accident. It would not be covered by the warranty.

    I called Gieco and got re-connected with the adjuster that had the body work done. She said that it was possible that there could be some damage to the electric circuitry or battery from the accident that would not show up right away. She was going to authorize 3 hours diagnostic work but thinks we might be better off to take it to another dealer, this guy was too quick to point the finger. We'll see what he comes up with today.

    It just seems strange that it took so long for problems to develop after the accident, if it was the cause. Any comments?
     
  7. Superdrol

    Superdrol Member

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    Depends if the wiring was loose. That is probably how the electrical work got damaged. I'm guessing that despite the wiring getting damaged, driving it around must have moved around some of the wires and there was a 'bare part' that touched the metal body.

    Even though my profile says "Ohio" (that's where my family lives), I live and work in Indianapolis too. Did you take it to Butler Toyota (96th Street) up north ? I've heard negative things about that dealership.
     
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  8. DaveinOlyWA

    DaveinOlyWA 3rd Time was Solariffic!!

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    sara; my 2010 also died for one day for no real reason... well, it actually sat for 9 days, but that "shouldnt" be a factor.

    but unlike yours, i used my portable jump box, it fired right up and have not had an issue since. as far as jumping goes, if you are using a 12 volt power source to jump a 12 volt power source, it will either work or not. since your car started and ran, it worked. there is no in between.

    u have two battery connections to make, there is only 4 possible choices and two of them have one end not connected which would not do anything. so the other two choices is correct polarity or incorrect polarity. if its incorrect polarity and you are using a portable jump box, you might not see anything at all; no sparks, no fireworks, etc. but you would also see no running car either.

    take your car in, there is definitely something wrong
     
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  9. The Electric Me

    The Electric Me Go Speed Go!

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    My guess is you did no damage jumping you battery.

    My other guess is your problem is stemming from something that happened as either a result of the accident, or the repair of your vehicle.

    If all the work was done at a reputable, certified bodyshop then your warranty shouldn't be voided. Being in wreck and having damage repaired doesn't void your warranty.

    The problem is the dealership still doesn't really know what the problem actually is, once they determine what is causing the problem then connections to possible damage done in an accident or improper body shop work might be made, but to blame the bodywork before even knowing what the problem actually is, is putting the cart before the Horse.
     
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  10. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    Please ask them to write down on your service ticket everything found and in particular the codes. Some of us have maintenance manuals and you are one of the first to report this problem so we're curious.

    Also, there is an independent shop, AutoBeYours, that handles rebuilding NHW20, 2004-09 Prius and they are about 85 miles away. If you get a lot of grief, I would recommend giving them a call and explaining what is going on. They have a lot Prius expertise and I would trust their judgment (tell them PriusChat recommended them. <grins>)

    Thanks and GOOD LUCK!
    Bob Wilson
     
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  11. DaveinOlyWA

    DaveinOlyWA 3rd Time was Solariffic!!

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    i did not see the accident post. sounds like accident may have damaged the ground somewhere which could cause high leakage current that would slowly drain a battery. if jumping it allows the car to start and run, its something that is causing a slow drain or slight voltage drop, so nothing shorted, opened or "completely" broken and is one of the toughest things to find.
     
  12. adamace1

    adamace1 Senior Member

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    I would call the dealer up and tell them to put anything they have apart back together and not touch it again!!! and take it to another dealer. They blame you then blame the body shop, who's next? And how do you blame when you don't know what the problem is? Please post the dealers name so we all can avoid it at all costs. Sound slike a place that will be replacing alot of parts and trying to make you pay for them.
     
  13. sarahap

    sarahap Junior Member

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    The news is good! I got my car back this afternoon. The dealership said the problem was just a loosened connection of the ground wire to the frame in the back. Said it was related to the accident, they thought. Does that make sense to those of you here familiar with the anatomy of the Prius and its electrical system?

    I remember the body shop said because of the accident the bumper, styrofoam liner plus two or three horizontal plastic floorings and splastic sound deadening layers were broken and replaced (those were parts replaced with the accident--just a small-quarter-size dent in the tailgate, the rest of the impact was absorbed by the bumper and those plastic parts). So maybe either with the impact itself or the removing and replacing of those plastic pieces, something was loosened or worked its way loose with time?

    So the dealership replaced the 12v battery and charged the insurance, claiming that the faulty ground wire may have damaged that battery, otherwise they paid for the diagnostic time and Geico was happy with that. I paid nothing. I'm happy with that but mostly I have my car back it seems fine. I'm so happy to have it back and working! Happy ending!

    Thanks, I feel like the forum helped me through!

    BTW, I took it to OBrien Toyota on N. Shadeland in Indianapolis for those who care.
     
  14. seilerts

    seilerts Battery Curmudgeon

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    Ugh. Is it possible that the car will stay happily in Ready after disconnecting the 12V ground wire? This seems to be what you describe in your original post and the diagnosis by the dealer. But it is astonishing that after 5+ hours of diagnostic work and a battery swap that the tech didn't notice that the 12V ground connection was loose and/or corroded. When doing a service that involves disconnecting the battery (i.e. the body shop people), it is easier to disconnect the ground wire from the body, rather than the ground terminal from the battery post. For the dealer explanation to make sense, the body shop people either undertightened or overtightened and stripped the little bolt that connects the wire to the body.
     
  15. DaveinOlyWA

    DaveinOlyWA 3rd Time was Solariffic!!

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    see my post above, it makes perfect sense that its a loose ground. glad they found it, those are one of the toughest fixes due to their intermittent fault status.

    in any situation where electrical things work a bit then fail, work a bit and fail, its usually a failing motor or a bad ground. grounds must be a clean, tight connection or they create additional resistance (this resistance is like leaving a light on. it slowly saps away the power of your battery)

    let us know how things go after the fix is in place and you have a few miles on it!