keeping one of the aux power sockets live on 2010 model

Yes, I will be soon posting a mod I did for center console lighting that includes keeping that inner power outlet "always live". It is possible.

 

I am also very interested in converting one of the aux power outlets to be always on. I looked at the center console light mod and it looks like there might be an easier way to get the power there without having to remove so many dash panels. I need the power source for my Sirius stiletto radio which has a nice record feature but only works if the unit is powered up on a external source. Also I needed to run a antenna as well because it seems you cannot tap into the existing XM Antenna so I ended up putting the Stilettos car kit antenna which is a magnetic mount. I placed the antenna next to the XM antenna on the roof which left me with the problem of running antenna cable to the center console which is why this is relevant.

What I am planning to do is connect a wire to the positive battery terminal using a Ring Tongue Terminal from radio shack. There are two places on the terminal where there are bolts that you could use to connect the wire. From there it is pretty easy to run the wire along the frame until it come out just behind the front passenger seat. The wire can go under the rear floor mat using the piece of the mat that is under the seat. This should should minimize and wear caused by traffic on the mat. Now if you pry the back off the center console you have access to the aux plug assembly as shown in phoenixgreg's photos of the center console. So all you need to do is cut the green wire on the aux plug. Insulate the wire coming from the harness so it will not short when the power is on and connect the wire from the battery to the green wire.

Since the power will be coming straight from the 12 volt battery I am going to put a inline fuse holder on the connection to the battery to protect the aux power.

Once I do the work I will take pictures and post the mod in case others would like to do the same.

There is one other approach that could work. I noticed while under the dash looking int phoenixgreg's mod that the fuse block above the hood latch lever has a fuse for AUX Power and Cig. There may be a way to hook a hot 12 volt wire to the fuse block. Since that involves dissembling the dash and monkeying with the fuse block I will leave other to look at that approach. What I find interesting is that appears to be the way the pre 2010 mod for doing this seems to work pretty much that way. Since they do not support the 2010 there may be a problem with this approach?

 

It's not that hard. I did this for my Tacoma. I ran 12awg from the battery to the cig lighter and put a 40Amp fuse at the battery.

 

SkiTrak, I considered the alternative of coming directly off of the battery too. Adding an in-line fuse is required to prevent a possible short-circuit and fire. Here's the problem: You still need to remove the console to get the back of it off. There are a series of clips the need to be freed from the inside or there could be breakage of those clips. I used a small-blade screwdriver to pry away each catch inside and then gradually worked my way towards the top. Removing the console is relatively easy: There are 5 bolts (10mm) to remove and the console assembly moves back, then disconnect the factory harness (near front now exposed), then lift it up and out.

I also considered using a blank in the fuse panel (#14a 7.5 amp) you mentioned under the drivers kick panel for my project, but once I took the lower left dash panel off, the top of the fuse block was directly linked to a processor which I did not want to disturb. BTW, I really like having a center console light that does not require the car to be started.

 

I took a different approach. I tapped into ignition power and constant power.



The iginition power turns on the radar detector and run an auto headlight module I installed.

The constant power goes to a 6 outlet Aux Power box under the seat. I have a laptop charger, two cell phone chargers, a Bluetooth headset charger and power for the radar detector remote display. I have switches on all them so I can remove power if the car will be left for a long time.

I am sure it would be easy to cut the wire going to the built in Aux Power socket and connect it to constant power. The hardest part is finding the wires. My pic should make that easy.

 

Thanks Judgeless! I wish I had known about that red wire when I was doing my center console light project.

 

Just curious, why did you use solid not stranded wire?

 

The solid wire is from a thermostat cable I had at my disposal. It has many color choices if you want to be consistent with the Toyota color codes. Typically, a red wire is always hot. I discovered that Toyota uses green wires to indicate "switched" power. The solid wire is 18 gauge and is rated for 24 VAC 40 amp. - more than adequate for for a car wiring project. If you need more than one lead, wire routing and fishing is cumbersome with "stranded" wire as it does not shape very well. With twisted solid leads, the wire(s) can be routed more easily under the dash or behind plastic trim and it can be "shaped" to stay put rather than have it hanging down.

Stranded wire will work just fine as long as the gauge is 18 or 16 depending on what your expected amperage pull will be.

 

PhoenixGreg I finished my mod and I just uploaded the article. I would appreciate it if you would take a look and let me know if it looks ok from both a published mod as well as anything you think might be technically incorrect.

Here is the link:

PriusChat Forums - SkiTrak's Album: Sirius Stiletto II Install in 2010 Prius V with ATP – includes 12 Volt always on Mod

 

Great work SkiTrak! I'm glad you decided to remove the console, but I did not realize that there was an extra cable for a USB port in there for models higher than the II. It seems odd there isn't a way to disconnect it easily, as you discovered. Yes, feel free to use my disclaimer verbiage and hopefully your new radio (with record feature) will give you years of good service. I'd like to add you as a friend since we think alike for electrical car mods.

 

Absolutely!

 

Your link in your signature works perfectly - again great details with lots of pictures. You'll notice a lot more visits to your home page now.
Congrats on the new Stiletto!

 

Earman: Nicely done! As you mentioned, it looks unobtrusive and reversible, if desired in the future. Good job on documenting your work, the pictures are outstanding. I appreciate your placement of a disclaimer up front too. I always feel it's better to show the project, but suggest it was your unique solution and that others could follow only if they are qualified.

 

I did mine the same way in my 06 and my new 2010 IV - connected direct to the battery with a second nut. However, I used a 3 outlet model from Radio Shack with a quick disconnect. The wire is hidden under the carpet when not in use. The adapter stores in the little bin on the driver's side. It is completely hidden until I need it.

 

Sorry, the PriusChat servers were rebooting just as I posted this and it posted twice.I can edit the message, but do not see how to delete it.

 

Earman what's the output on that solar charger? And is your rear window tinted?