need help with my prius

Without knowing exactly what the codes are, you can try rebooting, to remove codes, check your 12V battery, take it for a good drive, after charging up the 12V IF it needs it. If you havn't replaced the 12V, you may want to consider it. There are many threads on the 12V bat that you can search for, and a wealth of info. As far as charginging separate banks on the HV battery, that is too involved to get into at this point in time.

 

Usually if DTC P3006 has been logged, as well as the other two DTC that you mentioned, then you would expect to see a warning icon appear on the MFD: either the traction battery icon or the hybrid vehicle icon.

When you say "the car runs fine and drives great", can the car operate only on battery power at low speeds? Usually if the traction battery has failed, the gasoline engine will run whenever you depress the accelerator pedal.

If you find that the car can operate under battery power, what indication shows up on the battery state-of-charge gauge? Usually that gauge will show two or three bars. If you see the gauge fluctuate wildly that is another indication that the traction battery is bad.

 

What is your 12V battery reading, using MFD &/or a multimeter? Did you try rebooting? (removing neg battery ground connection) and then reconnect ??? Will the car drive on battery alone?? at slow speed, zero-30mph, not accelerating. Even with fairly decent 12V readings the aux battery can still be bad if it was ever drained at some point. Sorry, I see on post 4, you did reboot it. It may be necessary to reboot 2-3 or more times AND I have read that sometimes a few days are required for some ECU's to stabilize. The fact that you are getting charging of the HV into the green zone is a good sign. Now you have to ensure the integrity of that dratted 12V battery.

 

That's normal.

 

See editing on post # 8

 

1. Can you drive the car on battery power only at low speeds (without the gasoline engine turning on)?

2. Do you have any warning icons on the MFD (multifunction display screen at the center of the dashboard)?

3. Normally, once the Prius gasoline engine has reached operating temperature, it will not "idle". When the car is READY but resting, and the gear selector is in P, the gasoline engine should be off - unless you depress the accelerator pedal.

 

That is correct. You can disconnect the 12V battery once the Prius is READY since the DC/DC converter is providing needed power to the 12V bus.

You haven't yet answered my question about whether or not you can drive the car on traction battery power alone. If you cannot drive solely on battery power, then I would say that the traction battery also needs to be replaced (given the presence of DTC P3006 plus that driveability symptom.)

 

This car is unique, in that you actually can run it w/o the 12V, you just can.t start it. Ignore any side issues, like icons, warnings etc. Concentrate only on the 12 Volt Battery! What is the voltage?????????? Do you have a multimeter?? After we ensure that the 12V is GOOD or BAD then we can progress. The 12 Volt affects many of the systems in the Prius. and listen to Patrick, his advice is priceless!

 

ALSO: Importante, You may not be aware of it but this car has a extended warranty on the HV Battery, for mine it is 150,000 miles I'm not sure on the 2001, Gen 1, it may be the same. That is for CA, Socals also part of CA, right? Thats good for any owner.

 

You are aware that there are TWO battery systems? The MFD only shows the constantly changing state of the High Voltage System. It is normal for this to fluctuate, somewhat, from low (red bars ) to high, (green bars) The 12V system is the basic heart of the car. This can be checked with a multimeter or the car also has a self check system, if you search 12 Volt battery in our search box you will run across it. Knowledge is the key to understanding the Prius and keeping it running.

 

You've confirmed the 12V DC-to-DC inverter is working.

Try it again with the car first turned off. Let it sit for 3-5 minutes and then reconnect. Then when you go to start it up, monitor it step-by-step as you start it up.

Bob Wilson

 

This appears much the same as a Honda traction battery failure, where SoC is unstable. This is caused by individual cells that drop to 0V and then reverse. You basically have 4 options in order of cost:

1. Buy Gen I modules from ReInvolt to replace the bad ones, they sell known good ones on EBay (seller tautomotive).
2. Buy two Gen II salvage packs and install the best modules from them into your Gen I case.
3. Buy a ReInvolt replacement pack, where they have done all the work in option #2 for you.
4. Buy a replacement pack from your local dealer.

You can try #1, but given how long the car sat, you may be better off going to #2 or #3...