I need battery Help/Info

yes you could disconnect but as you know now all cars like to just sit there for example oil changes.. suggest being done after vehicle has been sitting there for 3 months, why because you get the chance to pull more sludge out of the car when it has that much time to sit.. and the cediment that falls to the bottom has a chance to be taken out when you drain it.

Your battery should be fine, but i suggesting swaping out for a yellow top OPTIMA batter! yeah good stuff and long warrenty.. As you know the ones from toyota are way under powered for future applications. Radio/system sound system....

Its fine that volt drops down a little.. and eventually the battery wont have a change cause you let it sit there so longs, same thing goes for non hybrids

 

It sounds like your 12V battery needs to be replaced soon. Since your car will be unused from now until March, I suggest that you defer the replacement until you return in April.

While the car is IG-OFF, the traction battery will be disconnected. I suggest that you make sure the traction battery SOC gauge shows 7-8 green bars before you put the car in storage. You can force charge the battery by making the car READY, shifting to D, depressing the brake pedal fully with your left foot, then flooring the accelerator pedal with your right foot. Be aware that the transaxle may overheat if you overdo this process.

Since no one is available to keep an eye on the car while it is in storage, I personally would fully charge the 12V battery, then disconnect the negative cable where it connects to the body. Place the end of the cable in a Baggie or tape it, so that there's no way it can contact the vehicle. Or, you can disconnect the positive cable that attaches to the dedicated positive jump start terminal within the main relay/fuse box next to the inverter.

Some owners see no problem leaving a float charger connected during storage. My concern is that a battery problem might develop over time, which would cause a potential fire hazard.

I also suggest that you replace the engine oil and filter prior to vehicle storage.

 

By the way a float charger does a very poor job of charging a battery thats more than 3/10's of a volt below 12. Its not what there designed to do. Its really a charge maintainer not a charger.

You must use a regular charger first to fully charge the battery paying careful attention to current draw and rate of charge just to track the batteries health over time.

On our batteries using a regular charger should not draw than 2 amps in the initial draw and then become fully charged in about 10 minutes.

Then if the battery is in good health the float can maintain it. The battery must be fully charged to begin with for the float to work. It outputs such a small current it will take forever to charge it back to 12 volts in your particular situation. And the most important thing a float does is shut off when the battery is fully charged. If the battery drops more than 25 mV's it turns back on.


And there is no risk in using a float. It pulls very small current which is why it uses a wall wart power supply. It was made for your situation unless you have already let the car sit through a Jan/March cycle without a float in which case its probably now mildly sulphated and not happy. But your on the right track with the float though. Just might need a better specimen to work with.