handy oil-change discovery

All I can think of: you might want to put some sort of semi-adesive, say silicon caulk, in a few spots between the filter socket and the filter housing, to guard against it vibrating loose. Hmm:

Maybe Toyota could make the housing metal, and put a 3/8" drive hole in it?

Honda transmission drain bolts are like that: a round headed bolt with hole square hole for 3/8" drive. More convenient than Toyota's 10mm hex socket (fill and drain bolts on 3rd gen), I think.

 

According to Imperial, "they're dependable under pressure" Now that's just crazy!

 

Where did you happen to procure this little jewel?

 

I used my filter wrench for the first time a couple of weeks ago. I was concerned too about how tight the fit was. I was able to tap mine a couple of times and knock it free, though.

I never thought about leaving it on the filter !! Maybe next time.

 

John

where can I buy it?, is toyota dealer sell it John?

V/r

Khoi nguyen

 

But that adds weight to the car and my mileage will drop 0.0001 MPG!!!

j/k

My wrench fits snugly too, and I have to be careful to not get it stuck. Never really thought to just leave it on there. Next change is this weekend. Maybe I'll try that.

Most plastics thermally expand/shrink more than metals. So, it'll stay on there hot, no problem, but it might get loose when it gets cold. Or, if you want your wrench back, try putting it in the freezer.

 

Fram (I think) makes some disposable filter with a 3/8" square socket built-in.

Still, I'm not sure I'd want to do this, it might become addictive: next you'll be gluing a 14mm socket to the oil pan drain bolt

 

John, it looks your engine underpanel was completely off in the pics. Was that just for the oil change, or are you leaving it off. Just curious, with reports of failing access doors on that panel.

I trial-removed my whole panel, just for practice (have yet to get to first oil change interval, 8000 km in Canada), and found it took maybe 15 minutes, vs ~5 minutes for just getting the access door fasteners out. I'll likely just open the access door at first change, but intend to very easy on it: just opening it enough for access, and securing it with some twine, as opposed to overflexing it.

 

A unique solution John, I think I like it.

 

Not to criticize your idea, but if it ever came loose, would it pose a danger to other cars on the road?? Thanks for the neat pics - first time I ever saw the filter. How do you get under to drain the used liquid gold?

 

I bought one of these (after a cheap black plastic one would spin right around the filter), used this metal one, had it get stuck on the filter cap like you, decided like you to leave it permanently attached.

Well.... at two oil changes later the new metal wrench-cap was loose on the filter cap, and in fact too loose. Upon attempted removal, it started to skip over all of the black ridges on the cap, and the cap would not budge. I still have not been able to remove the cap.

My wrench now comes off just fine, and by putting adhesive tape on the inside of the metal fluted wrench I have made it fit snugly. So, now it will not try to skip past the ridges on the cap, but I have feared damaging the cap by giving my wrench even more force.

The filter cap is still firmly in place. The last oil change was oil only, no cartridge. Very frustrating.

(As well, my oil filter access drop-down door is just about completely broken at the hinge after four oil changes. I had to screw on a metal clamp to hold it, and I plan to add some full metal hinges if replacement is not covered by TSB that I've just learned about.)

Has anyone ever broken a filter cap by torquing if off too forcefully?