Warning Lights, Triangle ! and VSC. Transmission Problems?

This is all good information. For example, would a transaxle under/overfill cause this? Any chance that the fill plug fell out, letting water in? etc.

Also, on the Enginer kit, did you disconnect the wires at the system main relays, or just at the kit box? As well, if there was a problem with the connection at the system main relays, a small amount of added resistance there would cause enough Ohmic heating to melt things, such at the insulation on the HV frame wires. That happened to someone not too long ago when they put in a salvage HV battery. I don't know if that would trigger the 613 information code though. The kit itself tends to cause confusion in current delivery mismatch, which results in P3000, P0A80, even P0000, so I agree that it is not directly part of the problem.


On that service bulletin, it is fascinating that non-CARB states get only the powertrain warranty, while CARB states get the full hybrid warranty. That implies that the trans is a hybrid component under CARB warranty! It also more or less shows the progression of CARB adoption by model year.

 

Patrick...has anyone tried synthetic trans fluid equivalent to Toyota WS?
I am noticing all the troubles occur when it is over 95 degrees outside.
if we could get the trans temp down, then the isolation faults will stop.

( yes, I saw the april fools day post about graphite oil )

 

I remember reading someone using something like "Red Line D6" without ill effects yet. Not sure whether that is synthetic or not.

 

Hi Steve,

It's not clear to me that synthetic ATF will help. The question is whether the root cause is due to lack of lubrication; or due to metal particles in the ATF which encourage the high voltage ground fault.

I am wondering whether you have a failed transaxle lying around your shop, where the HV ECU had logged DTC P0AA6 info code 613? If yes, and you have some time to open it up and see whether any faults are visible (like a burnt stator winding, for example) that would be fascinating.

 

I have looked at the windings on MG2 after removing a bad trans...but only once and it may not be a large enough sampling to be conclusive.
Today, We are replacing another and I will have a second chance to inspect.

the first one did not have visable burns.

 

Thanks, pls look at MG1 as well. If you can pls post photos of your latest autopsy that would be great...

 

I just had all these lights pop up on my '08 5 mins ago. I have 78,000 miles on the odometer and of course I only have the 75,000 mile extended warranty. I'm not deciding if it's safe to drive to my usual dealer by my house ~20 miles or have it towed.

 

for comparison, this is a normal MG2 winding.

Here is a close-up of some moisture we found under the inspection plate.

 

Decided to call AAA. Pretty sure it's the Inverter coolant pump. I opened up the cap with it running and didn't see any movement of the coolant. Dropped it off at the dealer so they're looking at it. I'll update this thread for everyone's curiosity and any future searchers of this issue.

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/user/imwoody36#p/u/0/shs55I959Pw]‪imwoody36's Channel‬‏ - YouTube[/ame]
I made a 2 minute video showing the transmission and some internal views of the windings.

 

Hi Steve,

Thanks so much for the effort required to disassemble the transaxle and take the great photos and video. This is a wonderful contribution to group knowledge.

I am wondering whether the transaxle case vent (which allows a partial vacuum to form when the transaxle has cooled from normal operating temps) was stuck open, so that outside air and water moisture could enter. (DIYers who change the transaxle ATF and remove the fill plug first, will note a hissing sound as the fill plug is removed, assuming the transaxle is reasonably cold. That results from air entering the transaxle as the plug is removed. If you don't hear this hissing then your vent also may be stuck open.)

Do you think that if the transaxle was cleared of the moisture, that it would function properly without having the HV ECU log P0AA6?

I am also wondering why Jacob the OP's car logged P3009 yet when he disconnected the AC compressor, the car still had issues. Perhaps his third-party mods are responsible...have you come across a car that logged P3009 where the root cause was a component other than the AC compressor?

 

I have experienced some persistant codes on a prius that I'm sure were fixed, you should always add the element of time to your diagnosis.

to be clear, I suspect the codes were somehow " in que" and reported the next time the power was cycled.

I suggest duplication on scan tool tests when replacing components or in this case when seeking 3009 faults.

I replaced the WS fluid twice in 10 days on the one in the above video.
Yes, I believe the moisure could have entered from the vent, no oil leaks were evident...we are led to believe the air leak is on top ( above the oil line).

so-far , no more trouble codes.

I would like to add that last year we replaced the fluid and electrical plug on a 2005 prius and it has also worked well since.

 

88 degrees outside ( 10 degrees cooler than when the codes were set) and so far no problems with the car.

 

Having the same issues with my prius, how many miles can you drive the car with this code on? if i just "reboot" it whenever the code pops up what more damage could i cause to the car? thanks for any and all help

 

Exactly. if you can tolerate rebooting just drive it.
However at the least replace the fluid and inspect for corrosion on those resolver plugs.

 

thanks, it's gettign fixed in a few days or maybe a week or so, but i want to still be able to drive my car.