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My Prius is dead and too hi-tech for a newbie ... where to start? Is there a checklist?

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by eBrain, Sep 9, 2011.

  1. seilerts

    seilerts Battery Curmudgeon

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    That's interesting, 9 out of 10 tow truck drivers don't know S*** about how the Prius works.

    I don't know that there is much juice left in the hybrid battery now. At the stop sign, the car quit when the battery was at 40% SoC. After the reboot, the car reset SoC, and you got 130m coming back before it figured out that SoC was less than 40%. It probably just barely had enough for the final 70m. It probably just barely barely has enough juice to crank the engine a couple times. I wouldn't even try putting it in Ready for loading on the tow truck tomorrow, just do Ig-On and put it in Neutral, and it must be towed by a flatbed!

    I'm sorry if I am coming across as a curmudgeon here, but I am trying to help you avoid the need to having your HV battery recharged by a dealer.
     
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  2. uart

    uart Senior Member

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    It looks like the advice to preserve as much traction battery power as possible has fallen on deaf ears. The dealer will probably see a flat traction battery and want to charge you $3000 to change it before they even attempt to figure out anything else. Good luck.
     
  3. andyprius

    andyprius Senior Member

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    Not sure where you are now, dealer, at home, BUT, one thing not suggested was: if you get it in ready, if you can confirm the engine is running.....then step on brake, keep left foot on brake, apply emergency brake firmly, put it in drive. THIS is the HV charge position!
    Keep your right foot on the accelerator pedal, the MFD should now show a charging effect by increasing bars. If you get this far, continue to charge until you get green bars, preferably, all the way to the top, this is the 80 percent design point, which indicates a full charge. Do not attempt to drive it until you get to this point. Should you get this far, it is now safe to drive and you can observe any unusual HV battery drains. Good luck.
     
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  4. andyprius

    andyprius Senior Member

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    Since you have had some electrical training, there is a wealth of info on PC concerning testing and module replacement. Might be fun! Concern over danger is way exaggerated. Read Hobbitts post on subject. :cheer2::cheer2:
     
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  5. andyprius

    andyprius Senior Member

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    incidentally, there is a certain amount of natural regeneration to most batteries, small, but perhaps enough to enter ready again.
     
  6. usbseawolf2000

    usbseawolf2000 HSD PhD

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    The HV battery is dangerously low now. Without recharging it through the gas engine or dealer charger, it will sure cause damage. Prius logs the number of time the HV battery gets dangerously low. Hopefully, this is the only time. Torque app with custom PIDs can display that count.
     
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  7. eBrain

    eBrain New Member

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    Car is @ the dealership in Plano; will keep you guys posted. Thanks!
     
  8. TonyPSchaefer

    TonyPSchaefer Your Friendly Moderator
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    I've been watching for updates. Thanks for the bump.
     
  9. spalmer

    spalmer Junior Member

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    I'd be really keen to hear what work needs to be done. I'll keep watching this thread.
     
  10. eBrain

    eBrain New Member

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    Interesting update for you guys ...

    When I took the car to the dealership I was ready to spend 2-3k ... but...

    They ran diagnostics for $79.99 and called me back with the news: a fuse was bad ... that they replaced for 20 bucks and everything was fine! I was in the state of denial but they said it was perfect...

    Scheduled towing to get the car back home (there are no plates as I dont have title yet) ... then they called back and said they found remote was not locking/unlocking the doors

    So they asked for permission to reprogram FOB for about $250. There was no choice. So gave them a go but they called back and said FOB was not programmable
    (???) and wanted me to buy new FOB for $400+

    But FOB was working (starts the car) but manual key wont lock/unlock the door :) They said this was not the right FOB (resellers going to auctions for inspection do such tricks - hide keys so cars won’t start during auction for them to win the cars for low). Dealership said there was no choice as FOB cannot be reprogrammed ??? if it has already been reprogrammed (or something like that...)

    Paid $75 for manual key (made by Lexus next door) ... I plan to use FOB to start the car and manual key to lock/unlock it till I have confidence in the care and can afford to spend $400 to get new FOB

    Dealership offered front windshield and rare glass replacement for 250 + 450 = $700 (all inclusive; done by 3rd party)

    Brake light cover was cracked with a hole in it ... they said car won’t pass inspection - asked $299 for the cover alone that I decided to leave for now (will try to find at some yard locally)

    Now the math for the group as some of you might want to know ... all numbers are rounded
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    $6,000 auction price
    $500 auction fee
    $100 towing service from auction to home
    $220 12v battery replacement - Toyota of Richardson (used online coupon)
    $10 FOB Battery replacement myself
    $100 towing service from home to dealership
    $120 (diagnostics + fuse + FOB battery replacement by dealership)
    $75 manual key
    $250 Front Glass/Windshield replacement (all inclusive)
    $450 Rare Glass/Window replacement (all inclusive - only the top, bigger glass)
    $100 towing service from dealership to home ( I don’t have title yet so no plates thus towing )
    =======
    $7925
    =======

    I guess I'll be glad for owning 2005 with 87k miles and clean title with some hail damage of-course :)

    @ AndyPrius:
    Thanks for the tip! Bringing HV to 8 green bars while holding the brakes and pushing gas pedal wore me out :) But I made sure there were 8 green bars... took me about 8 minutes but I did get there...
    Thank you all for your help and support!
     
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  11. eBrain

    eBrain New Member

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    Thank you for pointing it out and encouragement ... dealership confirmed it is bad FOB. Will see how far I can go starting car with FOB and locking/unlocking it with manual key every time! :D
     
  12. usbseawolf2000

    usbseawolf2000 HSD PhD

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    I am curious what fuse it was.

    You had the wrong FOB and you could turn on the car?
     
  13. eBrain

    eBrain New Member

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    Foundation repair folks came and all papers were moved from my home-office... will post codes/part number when I find the receipt. Thanks!
     
  14. uart

    uart Senior Member

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    Glad you updated us. :)

    No need to go overboard, 5-6 bars is a really healthy state. Charging to 8 is actually a little bit more than optimal, especially from near zero in a short time. Basically you've just given the battery a "hammer cycle", a bit like revving an engine to red-line, it shouldn't do any harm if you don't make a habit of it.

    Re the fob. Many people have found that when trying to reprogram a second hand (or ebay acquired) fob, that they can get the ignition to work but not the doors. I suspect that this is what's happened in your case.
     
  15. TonyPSchaefer

    TonyPSchaefer Your Friendly Moderator
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    Thanks for the update. Hopefully, with the bulk of the trouble behind you you'll be able to start enjoying the car. You got a heck of a deal.
     
  16. spalmer

    spalmer Junior Member

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    You could also just have put the car in P and then pressed the gas pedal.
     
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  17. andyprius

    andyprius Senior Member

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    As I have always understood it, you get NO regeneration in PARK, but I will try your system when I get home. :cheer2:
     
  18. andyprius

    andyprius Senior Member

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    I agree with that, overall you did fine, one more point! Do not give up on reprogramming the FOB, there are posts on the subject. As in all reprogramming you may have to go thru the procedures several times. In the meantime you got some good basic schooling on the Prius, which was what you asked for on your first posts. Only rarely do we have a newbie that follows our suggestions, progresses AND gets back to us! So we appreciate that! and, we learn something too. :cheer2::cheer2:
     
  19. uart

    uart Senior Member

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    Yep if you just make ready and leave it in park it will start the engine and charge the traction battery, no need to force feed it.

    If the battery SOC is healthy (over 3 bars) then it will just charge it for a minute or so until the engine is warm enough for "stage 2" and then cut out.

    If the SOC is really low however (eg zero or 1 bars) then it will fast idle and gently charge the battery for a few minutes up to 3 or 4 bars and then turn off the engine (I did this once but cant remember if it was 3 or 4 bars).
     
  20. andyprius

    andyprius Senior Member

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    OK, I am in Germany the last three months, so I am forced to agree with your post. But, remember I was trying to encourage the OP to charge to the highest possible state, I said all green bars knowing that is the 80% percentile design charge point. After carefully reading all the posts I noticed that the car was almost correct, but, he had never really bought it to a full charge before testing the car. And I know on my car I can do this. but, TY for your input! :cheer2: