Super Nintendo in Prius - almost there

Wow, what you are doing is so cool!
Unfortunately, I don't have any answer to ur questions. But have a few suggestions.

a. If you use a multi-meter to measure the 5k pot, you can turn it till it's 300 Ohms and then connect it to the pins.

b. You might be right. Without knowing what's connected to the pins, and how the whole system works, it's impossible to know what resistance to use will stabilize the image.

Hope other experts on this forum will give you some more hints. And... good luck!

 

Bump. Do we have anyone out there who can help him out? I'm interested in this as well.

 

is this the classic nintendo?

 

shoot, I've got to classics at home

 

This doesn't make a lot of sense to me. My hardware knowledge is a bit rusty, since I've been a software developer for the last 15 years, but it seems to me that a H/V sync input should be receiving a real signal and not just be tied 5V, regardless of the size of the resistor you use.

Here's a somewhat unrelated, but still potentially useful web page I found about sync signals.

http://www.raphnet.net/electronique/sync-o...on-green_en.php

My guess is that the Super Nintendo produces a "Sync-On-Green" signal and the Apple IIGS monitor would accept either an H/V sync or a Sync-On-Green signal, so they simply terminated the H/V sync pin to 5V. However, the Prius screen might not support the Sync-On-Green and might require an H/V sync, so therefore by terminating the H/V sync to 5V, you aren't providing it any sync and it doesn't know how to align the picture.

If you search hard enough, you might be able to find a circuit to filter the H/V sync out of the green signal to provide the Prius display with an H/V sync.

 

Your sync frequencies are obviously not correct for the Prius MFD.. No amount of DC bias (which is all that the pot does; you really shouldn't need it at all) will fix it.. What's the vertical frequency out of the Nintendo??

 

does anyone know if I can hook up classic nintendo to my Prius? I have NAV system

 

I initially understood that you weren't passing the H/V sync from the SNES to the display and were instead terminating the display's H/V sync to 5V.

If that's not the case and you are both passing the H/V sync from the SNES to the display as well as connecting it to pin 10, then try removing the connection to pin 10.

If I had to guess, and I'm very rusty with this, I'd say that the purpose of the 300 ohm resister to 5V is to boost the voltage level of the SNES H/V sync signal for the Apple IIGS monitor. Perhaps you don't need it at all.

 

One last stab in the dark...

Are you sure that the MFD has a composite H/V sync and not a separate H sync and V sync?

 

There is another user group in yahoo, prius_technical_stuff. These guys seem to have all the technical background on this beast. I would try their chat and I'd be amazed if they didn't come up with answers. I've seen them answer much more arcane questions. I'm impressed anyway!

 

I have a Prius MFD on the bench for testing CAN-views and a multi-standard signal generator, so I can contribute what I've observed.

The Prius MFD (enabled by NAV or a camera ECU) can only accept directly RGB and composite sync. It needs an NTSC-RGB converter for ordinary (RCA type) video

It can only display 60Hz NTSC as a full screen image. I've confirmed both in France and the UK that even in a PAL or SECAM country, Toyota still ships only the NTSC version.

It will accept interlaced or none-interlaced equally happily.

It requires composite sync (combined horizontal and vertical) but will also accept this in the form of composite video, either green-on-sync or just the plain TV signal coming out most RCA video sockets.

It will work down to quite low sync levels, from 1v peak-peak down to under 0.1v p-p
It expects R,G and B to be pure color signals, with no sync. Any sync present on the color can have the effect of blanking out that color.

So you must have combined sync for your project to work. Since everything you've tried doesn't seem to work, why not take a step back and confirm that a signal you DO know is good will appear correctly on the MFD. Just take the video output from a DVD player and feed it to all 4 wires (R,G,B and sync) and you should get a perfectly locked, but monochrome, picture on the MFD. If you don't; then you are not connecting up to the MFD sync input and must trace why not before going back to your SNES

Once you have that working, you can identify which wire is actually the sync (as opposed to what you think is the sync) by removing wires one at a time until the picture breaks up.

Then back to combining H and V sync to go in that pin.

Worth a try? Or have you already done this? In which case, apologies!
good luck

 

Did you directly attach the sync to green in your experiments, or did you make sure you at least used a resistor/capacitor to couple them if not an active circuit? If you direct couple the sync to a color, then the color will be loaded down to sync level. You only want the sync to have control of green when there is no active green signal. Or more accurately, you don't want sync to take control when it is not actively syncing.

The resistor is probably a pull-up resistor to get the sync to TTL level for the apple monitor. An active coupler for the H/V syncs should handle that fine without the resistor.

 

Hi Nicholas. The web-site you refer to here certainly implies that the outputs from the SNES should be directly compatible with the Prius MFD.
Your initial post referenced another web-site about the SNES pin connections and the need for 220uF capacitors between each of the 4 outputs and the MFD inputs. Did you manage to get the right capacitors? You could probably use down to 47uF and up to 1000uF and it would still work, but if for example you had used 220nF instead of 220uF then it most likely would not sync. 220micro-farads is definitely an electrolytic capacitor and the +ve leads should all point towards the SNES outputs. Sorry if thats obvious.....By the way, to get the smallest capacitor to fit in the SNES plug, a 100 microfarad 10 volts is ample and is still a pretty small can.

The 1vpp into 75ohms just means the SNES will deliver 1vpp if it has a 75 ohm load. With no load, it might be 2v or higher, but you would lose the sharpness of the signal.
The Prius already has those terminating resistors on all 4 RGBs inputs.

As a last thought, your latest web-site reference also shows SNES pin 9 is composite video, which the Prius MFD should accept as a sync input (it will ignore the video on top of the sync) So you could try that pin instead of your present sync pin.
Keep on trying!