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Is my traction battery failing?

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by shawnlevine, Feb 19, 2012.

  1. shawnlevine

    shawnlevine Junior Member

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    Good morning,

    Yesterday on my morning commute, the red triangle, brake light and check engine light popped up on my dashboard. After about 10 more minutes of driving I lost a lot of my driving power.

    The system screen showed that there was no brake regenerating happening. I could hear the battery fan going behind me pretty loud.

    Later that day I did pick up a cheap scan tool and it showed P0A80 trouble code.

    I did hit clear to clear codes and all the warning lights went off. The car then drove pretty normal for abount 5 minutes.

    The battery charging bars seemed to be acting wierd. It went all they way up to green real fast and then back down to 1 bar real fast. After about ten minutes all of the warnings came back on.

    After about 5 miles the fan starts up again.

    The car just hit 140K that same morning.

    I never had the waterpump recall done. I looked online and my vin was not listed.


    Any ideas?
     
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  2. Rokeby

    Rokeby Member

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    It looks like yesterday was not your lucky day.
    The conditions you report are the "classic symptoms"
    of a HV battery failure.

    FWIW, over time it appears that repeated long "hot soaks"
    from the car sitting out in the sun contribute to early
    HV battery failure. However, what "early" means is up to
    debate as documented failure have occurred at~65K miles.

    Here's a thread that covers the symptoms and options
    for replacing the HV battery:

    Replace HV Battery
     
  3. jdenenberg

    jdenenberg EE Professor

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    Shawn,

    There is a good outfit in Northern Florida that can help you get your Prius back into shape. They are Mellor's Automotive in West Melborne contact: [email protected]. They should be able to put in a rebuilt HV battery for about $2000 and have been given good reviews for their hybrid expertise.

    JeffD
     
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  4. shawnlevine

    shawnlevine Junior Member

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    Well after researching online, I purchased 4 battery modules off ebay. They will arrive on Wednesday and I will attempt to pull out the battery and tear the whole thing apart. I will test the voltage on all the modules to find out which modules are bad and replaceing them with the new/used ebay quality modules. I am guessing based on what I have read that I will not need more than 4 modules. Advise is greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,
     
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  5. uart

    uart Senior Member

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    Let us know how it turns out Shawn. I think everyone here is interested in the possibility of battery repair should it ever happen to us.

    BTW. Take a good look at the condition of the bus-bars when you pull it down. Some battery problems are caused by corroded connections.
     
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  6. efusco

    efusco Moderator Emeritus
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    Before you start installing those modules I think a bit more trouble shooting is in order. The dramatic swings in SOC are pretty classic for battery failure and that is probably what's going on, but let's work through things.

    1)How old is your 12V battery? Have you checked the charge on it? A bad 12 v can cause some very odd behaviors that can mimic HV failure.

    2)Has the inverter coolant pump on your car been replaced? If not, it needs to be as that's probably the most likely non-HV batt cause of issues. You can quickly check to see if it's working by looking at the reservoir under the hood, while the car is in "READY" and see if there is turbulance. If it's working, then that probably isn't the immediate cause of your problems, but it should be replaced anyway to avoid future problems.

    If those things are OK, then I look forward to hearing your results on the module replacement.
     
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  7. shawnlevine

    shawnlevine Junior Member

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    Success, The job took four hours. After testing the voltage. I had one bad module. I replaced it, and now I am up and running 100%. Next time will be easier.
     
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  8. uart

    uart Senior Member

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    Good going Shawn. One tip, try and drive it easy on the battery for the first few weeks. Try to avoid any real SOC highs or lows (green/purple) until the cells have time to equalize a bit.
     
  9. johnjamis

    johnjamis Junior Member

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    Could you post about how this battery fix went?
    Did you have any problems removing and installing the battery? Were any connections corroded?
    Were the replacement modules already charged and ready to install?
    Were there any surprises or especially difficult tasks?

    Thanks for any info you can provide. John
     
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  10. 2009Prius

    2009Prius A Wimpy DIYer

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    I thought it's best to charge and balance each module before reassembly. It would be interesting to see how long the "drop-in fix" will be working. Good luck!
     
  11. usnavystgc

    usnavystgc Die Hard DIYer and Ebike enthusiast.

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    Good job Shawn. I've been seeing more people just replacing the bad modules and good results have been achieved. Congrats on your DIY fix. Pls update us on the continued success (say in 6 months/1 year etc).
     
  12. shawnlevine

    shawnlevine Junior Member

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    The job went well. The battery is difficult to remove for the 1st time. Since this car was designed to come on a boat from Japan, the anchoring is total overkill there are so many bolts. The battery pack weighs around 60 aor 70 lbs and has some sharp edges. I would recommend using gloves and a strong helper to get the pack out for the 1st time. I set up a folding table with a beach towel on it to work on. I would recomend removing the bus covers and testing the modules before removing all of the lower screws. Find and mark the bad ones with a sharpie marker ( I only had one reading lower than 7 volts). Start and the end away from the comuter and loosen and pull off the modules untill you bet to the bad ones. It is hard to get the modules compressed enough to get the ancor screws back in. Also when tightening the terminal nuts do not over tighten, because they will break. I broke one near the end of my assembly and I had to go back and replace the module too. The modules I bought on ebay from xviper had the right voltage when I received them. The copper module connectors were tarnished, but they were clean under the nuts. I did not clean them in any way. When I put everything back in I did have extra bolts, but everything is still really secure. Good luck to anyone trying this. I spent $120 total for for modules on ebay, I used two because I accidently broke one. So I actually only used $60 in parts to repair my own battery pack. If it does not last, I will just repair again. The next time will take probably only 3 hours at most. I'm sure some day in the near future be able to buy new modules and we will not have to buy ebay refurbed. (hurray for being handy and to saving 4k)
     
  13. ddavids1

    ddavids1 Junior Member

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    HI-new owner of a 2005 Prius (one previous owner) 45,000 miles and runs great-I get indicated average 42 mpg. No indicators displaying any problems except that on the "Energy Display" Screen, I am puzzled about the different colors of the battery bars (green/blue/purple). Should I be overly concerned about the color of these bars? Now it rarely stays or turns green. Is this indicative of a problem with the traction battery holding or being charged? I appear to get power from the battery (runs on battery only for short distances). The weather in Central NY is cold/snow-does this alter the charging or ability to "stay green"? Thanks!
     
  14. seilerts

    seilerts Battery Curmudgeon

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    What was the dispersion in your voltage readings? If more than 0.02V, I predict another failure in a few months. I've posted this elsewhere, but the only way to know for sure if it is just a single bad module is to (1) two cycles of discharge+charge to make sure the capacity of remaining modules is 6 Ah or more or (2) let sit for two weeks and measure open circuit voltage. Weak cells have a higher self-discharge rate.

    ddavids1, your battery is fine. Staying blue is normal. You will see green when descending a long grade, or perhaps after exiting an expressway on a downhill offramp from high speed. You will see purple potentially when climbing a long grade.
     
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  15. uart

    uart Senior Member

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    All sounds perfectly normal ddavids1.

    Not seeing large swings in the state of charge (SOC) is a not a bad sign, it's a good sign. The Prius will normally try to maintain the SOC at 6 bars (blue).

    When descending hills or making very frequent stops you might see green. Green represents excess battery charge so it usually tries to use it up and soon goes back to 6-blue.

    You might see low SOC (purple) if driving hard up a long hill, or also perhaps when driving off from a cold start (engine cold). In this latter case you might benefit from letting the car warm up (engine idling in "P" ) for a short time (approx 40 to 50 seconds) before driving off.

    Nobody knows for certain if any given battery pack will last the life of the car or crap out at some earlier time. In general however, I'd say that the more consistent your SOC remains, meaning the less often it goes right up to 8 green or right down to 2 or less purple, then the better are your chances of having a very long battery life. :)

    BTW. But don't worry too much. A lot of people here drive terrain where they do regularly push their SOC right up and right down and still have good healthy batteries. What I said above is just about maximizing your probability of this being the case.
     
  16. usbseawolf2000

    usbseawolf2000 HSD PhD

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    You can use OBDII device like Torque app with custom PIDs, ScanGauge II or PriDash to see the battery block (pair of modules) voltage. Knowing that in advance would probably save time because you'll just have to test voltage of two modules. You can also make sure the replacement module have the desired voltage when ordering.
     
  17. NortTexSalv04Prius

    NortTexSalv04Prius Active Member

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    Okay
    I am now having the same issue with my 04 Gen 2 Prius, How do you check each module and will basic ampmeter with leads work?
     
  18. jdenenberg

    jdenenberg EE Professor

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    Do NOT try to measure module pair voltages directly unless you feel confident that you know how to do it safely. The 200v battery has the capability to cause damage to you. Besides, you need to remove the battery and take off the metal cover to gain access to the module terminals.

    The people that have been discussing monitoring the HV battery module pair voltages here are using computer interfaces (via the OBD2 port) that query the battery ECU in your Prius to get the 14 module pair voltages (about 15-16 volts each). As your battery gets older they will start to diverge in voltage and when they differ by too much, your car will let you know by flashing warnings on the dashboard and setting some codes that can be read via the OBD2 connector near your left knee under the dashboard.

    JeffD
     
  19. shawnlevine

    shawnlevine Junior Member

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    12.000 miles later and no issues at all.
     
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  20. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    congrats!