Oil Change Questions

If you don't want to do it yourself then just take it to someone you trust. I'd probably trust the dealer more than jiffylube, but how about other independent workshops. Are there any in your area that you've dealt with before and trust?

BTW. How much is the price difference between the dealer and jiffylube for an oil change?

 

Yeah synthetic is better, but these days the whole synthetic/conventional thing is not really that cut and dried. Most modern SM/SN rated oils will have some synthetic additives, and even with synthetic there is debate about exactly what should be allowed to be called "full synthetic". These days it's best to think of oils as more of a continuum from conventional to full synthetic rather than just being one or the other. What specific oil (brand/type) were you thinking of using?

Unless you really don't know what you're doing, then the best job will normally be the one you do yourself.

 

I wouldn't take my lawn mower to jiffy lube, a buddy took his car there, they installed the wrong oil filter, let's just say...it didn't end well for his engine.

 

Full synthetic oil is better than conventional but generally costs more. If you are going to observe 5K mile change intervals then a name brand conventional oil is fine.

The concept of having a "pro" do your oil change sounds good. However you should know that the least-skilled (most junior) dealer tech staff usually will perform that job. Even worse with the oil change chains.

Hence if you have the knowledge and tools to change the engine oil and oil filter on your car, and the engine hasn't blown up after you have done so, you might want to continue that process.

 

I usually buy full synthetic oil, when Walmart has a sale. Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum, Valvoline SynPower, they are all good. I observe 7,500 mile change intervals.

I also buy engine oil filters in a box of 10, Champion Toyota in Houston offers a discounted price of $32.90 for 10.
http://www.trademotion.com/partloca...fo&PartID=868241&siteid=213747&catalogid=7281

 

Yeah both are good oils. The Mobil 1 might be better if you wanted to go for longer drain intervals (say 7500+ miles), but Castrol oils are good too. I've used Castrol oils plenty of times with good results.

Yep both good choices too, all good name brands that you cant really go wrong with. BTW, Quaker State and Penzoil are subsidiaries of Shell, all good brands.

Probably not much, but I'd still use the genuine Toyota one as they're cheap enough and you know they're going to be up to spec.

 

Check Toyota dealership around you for coupons. I've found some dealerships giving out discount on parts & some places with oil change.

I buy my filters at the dealership that allows me to buy cost to at cost & I take my Prius to the other dealership that gives me discount on oil change.

I called Valvoline oil change place and got estimate for oil change out the door price & then called four dealerships that's close to my house to see if they'll be cheaper or match it. Sounds little sneaky thing to do but saves me money! ^_^

 

Kwiky Loob? Ew.

If a dealer changes the oil the odds of noticing other problems that exist may be a bit higher. But no matter who does it, always check the oil level yourself before driving away.

 

In the case of Jiffy Lube and dealers, "pro" only means that they are getting paid.

Amateur enthusiast, if they are careful and educated, can do a lot better.

It all depends on his or her level of skill and attention to details.

I've always had to "redo" most of the work that the so called "pros" have done for me.

I realized that I could eliminate the cost in time and money by doing it right in the first place myself. That was 45 years, ago.

 

I've always (for some 40 years) done the oil changes myself on all cars I've owned largely because it takes less of my time than taking my cars someplace, waiting in the queue, and waiting for the job to be done. And then there is always the aggravation of the shop ALWAYS trying to up sell (change cabin filter, air filter, injector clean, and other crap).

Happier (and richer) doing it myself!

 

I've done oil changes for years. I never liked the 28 ft. lbs. of trque and the plastic crush washer that Toyota uses.

I prefer to replace it with a soft copper washer and tighten it to only 18-20 ft lbs. The friction between the copper and the steel faces of the wasker provides a "lock washer" effect. The 20ft lbs. is required, because the drain plug needs to be retained by the friction between the threads of the plug and the threasd of the "nut" welded to the sheet metal of the oil pan. Bolts are like rubber banss. The "stretch" increases the frictional holding power. All properly tightened bolts are in tension.

Vintage Mercedes, VW's, Audi's and aircraft engines used copper washers.

Just think how much money Toyota has saved in the vast millions of cars by specifying cheap plastic washers.

Copper is the gold standard for steel drain plugs and pans.

 

Additionally, Having the oil a little below the full mark is better than above, Too much oil splashes and creates "cavitation" in the engine.