How to add SKS to the hatch and passenger door on a 1 door SKS Gen III Prius

Brett I bought all the goodies from parts.com to do the sks to my pass door and rear hatch. I have a 2011 Prius III and I'm 66 years old and I didn't feel comfortable installing the stuff so a had a local repair shop do the work. It took them 2days and $650.00 to do the work. Brett the problem is that they never could get the rear hatch to lock or unlock by just touching the handle. The pass door works great. Its like it has no power. Did anybody else have a problem with the rear hatch??It does lock and unlock with the key fob.

 

Hi Brett I went out in the parking lot where I work and tried the test you wanted me to try. I did it on both handles and the hatch opened that beep never sounded so good they everybody was watching a old man dancing around the parking lot it looked sick. Brett now what??????????????????

 

Hey Brett,

I am not that interested in the hatch, especially since that seems to be the bulk of the work. You had said something in your summary about connecting three antennas where the factory only had one. I saw where you added an antenna to the rear bumper but I didn't see one for the passenger door, unless it is integrated into the door handle along with the two sensors that lock and unlock the doors. In other words, what do I need to do different if I skip all of the rear hatch hardware and wiring and just install the passenger side door handle?

 

Thanks Brett,

But back to the wiring connections, I presume that the five white wires with colored dots from the passenger door handle will just get connected color for color with the wires going into the certification ECU? I guess I am wondering about paralleling the second antenna, and wondering how that might affect the impedance and therefore the range? Or would it be better to put it in series by cutting either the green or red and putting the two white wires with red and green dots in series? I don't have enough experience or knowledge of antenna systems to know which is better.

 

BrettS- Thank you so much for sharing this mod, and to others for your input to this forum. Traveling for a living and often leaving my fob in my suitcase instead of my jacket so it doesnt fall out, this is the one feature that I wanted from the four package, especially the trunk SKS. I however wasnt going to pay $2500 more for that package. About to order the parts but just wanted some guidance before I drop $350 or so. I have done quite a bit of wiring so I dont think I will have a problem there. My question is with popping trim peices. Do you feel that a trim removal kit will be needed or is this relitively easy without a kit. I figure a small screwdriver will be fine for the smaller peices but how about the larger ones. As far as pulling down the headliner to access the trunk latch harness, does it just pull out or would a tool be required to remove the clips that hold it up. Thanks for any help.

 

Thank you for the quick reply! Potentially damaging the trim was the really the only thing with this mod was the only thing I was apprehensive of (the door harness sounds "fun" too). Gonna place the order and give it a shot. Ill keep you all posted.

 

Brett, when are you coming up to the DC area?

 

Just Finished the mod and just have to say that, Brett, I hope you write tech manuals, or do something with modifications and make a lot doing it because this mod is great. I feel like I owe you money or a beer or something. A few notes:


I Do notice the range decrease but really shouldnt be a factor. as long as the fob is on your person and not 3 or more feet away in a bag or such. Didnt notice the long lag from locking to door to being able to reopen it that some have mentioned, maybe the usual 2 seconds like it was before the mod.


About doing the mod itself:


1) was dreading the harness installation based on what Brett and others have said but I must have been lucky, it went from the package to installed and clipped in the door in about 5 min (yes, I got it around the window frame and lock mech and I triple checked the window to make sure it still goes up and down). Perhaps they are making them less rigid.


2) You may want to invest in a deep number 10 socket for the 4 nuts to remove the trim peice that houses the trunk latch button. the 2 middle ones need it. I managed to remove and re tighten them with a number 10 open ended wrench, but it was a real pita.



3)The weather seal around the trunk that you need to remove to access under the headliner and to pull out the bumper to intall the trunk antenna is lined with some very nasty dark grease that gets everywhere. be very careful not to let this touch the carpeted area of the trunk/headliner or you will be investing in some goo gone.

4)when tighening the nuts that hold on the trunk antenna be very carful not to drop them. If you do drop them, youre either completely removing the bumper or taking another trip to Lowes. I did the latter.


5) Take your time with the wiretapping when you get up front. Brett layed it out perfectly but definitely do not rush. After an hour and a half of trying to figure out why the hell my car kept locking all doors every 3 seconds i realized i tapped a wrong wire. Its was the green dotted wire, in my case it went into the loom right next to another green dotted wire and I tapped the wrong one. Cross reference the pin numbers in the guide and triple check your work here.

Speaking of tapping and connecting these wires posi-taps and posi-locks work outstanding. they are pricey but make short work of the wire tapping and connecting wire. I was able to order mine at www dot chromeglow dot com (<--sorry, I dont have enough posts to posts URLs) out of Coral Springs FL. The actual posilock website makes you order no less than 45 at a time. You will only need 14.


A great mod, thank you so much Brett and all else who added to this post. If youre even marginally decent with digging into your car and you follow the guide, you should have no problem with this mod. Good luck!

 

This looks GREAT!! I have one question: Would there be any concern or issue if I were to decide to do only the hatch, and not the passenger door??

Many Thanks,
Eric

 

Is your car color the Blizzard White (some call it pearl white)? I can't seem to find a distinction in handle colors between the basic white and the Blizzard white.
Thanks.

 

I installed the rear hatch SKS today and it works perfectly! (I passed on the passenger door) Thank you BrettS for the write up!

 

I know this is a little older thread, but is it possible to change out the SKS ECU so that it is the one actually designated for 3 door SKS?