Where exactly is the A/C drain tube?

I have had an intimate relationship with that tube since I have done the evap coil cleaner service twice so far. I have no picture for you but can tell you exactly where it is. If you lay down behind the front pass tire its about 2 feet straight in. Its a
black rubber tube about 5 inches long and comes out of the bottom of the car at about a 45 degree angle. It does not hang down below the chassis line.

Its hard to find the first time as its hard to see from the outside of the car because its up in the chassis.

You may want to start the car and put it in max ac so you can see condensate drip out of it.

Good Luck.

 

Re: Is this it? Re: Where exactly is the A/C drain tube?

Yup thats it. Not sure why Toy did not extend that down a little and just make it a flimsier rubber like most American cars but i guess its not exposed to FOD up there.

And I am glad its a pretty solid tube when I do the AC service. That
spray can adapter hose that fits on that tube fits really tight inside that hose. You don't need to hold the spray tube into the hose when injecting the cleaner. handy.

BTW since your under there see those 2 bolts on the exhaust manifold with the springs on them? My 2007 was making an odd noise in that area when the ICE was on and I could not find it so on a lark I tightened both those bolts up a tiny bit and the noise went away. I think they come loose a little with the heat/cold differences. Tighten them up just a tiny bit if they seem loose. Tiny bit.

 

sorry to post on an old thread, my ac works and smells fine but now I am freaking out since mine is an 06 with 55,000 miles and it never had a service on the plug, I was wondering if I turn on my ac and water drips down under the car than is that mean I am in the clear or should I hurry up and go by the spray kit from toyota asap? I have a air compressor and heard people blow air into it, is that the same thing? thanks for all the help in advance

 

Why are you freaking out?

Its a good maintenance thing to clean out the e-coil once every few years so it doesn't get gunked up. Especially on a hardly used low mile car like yours. Don't blow anything out with your air compressor. Just go buy the kit of cleaner from the dealer.
Be aware its not an easy job as you have to jack the front pretty high to get your noggin all the way under there.
Jacking's the hard physical part. Make that worth your while. Plan ahead and do all the stuff under there at once. Change the trans fluid. Change the engine oil. Change the Inverter coolant. I would do the engine coolant too as the coolant has sat in your car for 6 years now. Might as well as the car is jacked up you can reach the engine coolant dump valve all the way in the back by the exhaust mani. Then do the e-coil cleaning last. If you do it all yourself its about $150 in parts. If the dealer did all this it would be about $700.
Your car will be good for another 50,000 miles or 6 years whichever comes first. Lol.

Oh btw, in the engine compartment take that black plastic top plate off that covers the top of the rad. Then take a good look at the ac condenser in front of the rad. If its dirty and I bet it is go to Home D and buy a pressurized can of COIL Cleaner. Hose that condenser down with the cleaner. Let it sit for a while and then hose it out real good. That with the e-coil cleaner you should have freezing cold AC.
And the most important part of AC maintenance is turning on the ac everytime you drive. I see you live in CT so I know it gets cold up there but car ac units last much longer if used everyday. The freon is the lubrication for the compressor and the seals and must be circulated to lubricate everything. if you do not use the ac alot the seals dry out and it gets a tiny weep leak. All of a sudden its not that cold anymore and you keep using it not knowing its leaking and low on Freon and before you know it your compressor burns out. Try to turn on the ac for just a minute everytime you drive even if its cold.

Good Luck!

 

thanks for the reply will be doing that with my next oil change (this way its on the lift/ free of charge) will buy/ order the part this week. I just did all my coolant on both the systems with original coolant fluid, full brake service, 4 fresh tires, cleaned the cabin filter as it was really good so did NOT replace it. I think i covered it all (never did trans fluid) until i found this ac issue tonight by accident and got a little scared as I am planning to keep the car until its going to cost more in parts than the car is worth =). another issue I have is the damn xenon lights already on 2 new bulbs and one new xenon module and today my other bulb turned off but i turn lights on and off and it works again, so far went out 2 times in the last month =( (got my fingers crossed its just the bulb/ already have a back up on hand). thanks a bunch =)

 

OK thanks sounds good.

Good luck to you.

 

Just a very minor clarification: It is the circulating oil (the ND-11 in this case) that does the lubrication, not the refrigerant itself. The oil is partially dissolved into the refrigerant and goes along for the ride. I think the seals in the Prius system are not as critical as in a conventional car with it's rotating shaft seal, but any place where there is a rubbery gasket material, it is a factor. And... "Freon" is long gone, being a trade name for the old R-12. The standard is R-134a now, and I don't know what it's catchy marketing name is.

 

I simplified my explanation but should have known that wouldn't fly here. Connection seals are just as critical in a Prius as in any car and there's alot of them. Nothing much different in a Prius AC from any other car other than an electric compressor and the use of ND-11.
Best way to keep any AC unit working good is to not let it sit for months at a time unused.