New 12vlt Battery and Display is now dead

Have you had any problems with your keys? Have you tried all sets of keys? What's the status of the blinking red light related to your key both before you insert key and after you insert and try to start?

Your symptoms sound a bit similar to what I experience when trying to start a Prius with the wrong keys...

 

Since you can push the POWER button and see a response, the immobilizer ECU is not the problem. If that was a problem then it wouldn't matter how much you push the POWER button: nothing would happen - the POWER button LED would not light, there would be no beep and no flashing CEL.

 

Any other warning signs? Was there a decline in MPG? Was your HV battery charge significantly low before this problem came up?

Could someone else have hooked up your battery in reverse polarity or botched a jumpstart when your weren't around to notice?

 

Why the heck didn't you mention its a salvage? That's a whole 'nother deal $$$$.

Tow it to the dealer and get a written copy of all the codes it throws especially the ending suffixes. Report back here.
Dealer diag for the codes is $125.

When you report back give us detailed description of why its a salvage.

 

Was any work performed to it between you driving it and now? If so, what was done? I would see if you can get any response out of a generic OBD II scanner before taking it to a dealer.

 

If you have a laptop, and can wait a little bit, I suggest to get one of the "mini vci" units from eBay. ~ $30. It will scan the GenII just fine.

 

Could not agree with you more. How can someone ask for information and not say it the car is salvage.

 

If the battery voltage is reversed you can damage some of the sensitive electronic equipment such as the Inverter. Others can give you a more complete list of other possible failure components.

 

Check with an ohm meter the IGCT relay and IG2 relay both in the fuse box under the hood. Check by powering the coils with 12 volts and the ohm meter across the contacts.

 

Apologies for people freaking out about your salvage issue... But it's true that people have spent $10k on a salvage Prius that ran fine for a week or two but then required $10k of repairs and those are terrifying numbers to someone who is not a mechanic.... I once read about an unemployed single mom this happened to on here once. Totally tragic! The guy who sold her the car could not be found by the cops either!

Is there any way you can figure out what the salvage damage was and who made the repairs? That'd answer some questions you might have...

I suspect some of the most knowledgeable Prius owners on PriusChat know the step by step sequence of how the car's electrical components come on line once the start button is hit and obviously the problem is with some of the very first components to start up. If it was a windows computer you could just boot up in safe mode with command line prompt and watch each systems initialize until it shows the one that it gets stuck on. Wish cars were designed that way, of course the dealerships would go broke if it was that easy...

you need to figure out the specific search terms to find that info on here but here's a link to the best tricks available to dig through the knowledge base on here: How to Search Google Like a Pro: 11 Tricks You Have to Know - How-To Geek

 

No one's freaking out...just would have been nice to know and also nice to know the OP is SAE cert. That sure helps.
And its a pretty easy car to troubleshoot we do it all the time on line here.

Now we know it has sat on a lot for 6 months on top of being a salvage. Thats bad.
Even though the OP was able to drive away that storage was not kind to the Hybrid Battery for future reference.
I bet at the minimum it's throwing module balance delta codes.

Our Windows Command line is the car CEL codes. Give us the codes...all of them exactly as thrown and we will come real close to whats wrong with it.

 

The OP is saying that the car is not powering up enough to provide CEL codes... And because OP was once ASE certified I'm pretty sure that they've done everything possible to read CEL codes and it's not possible? Is that true? Please confirm?

 

Just because the dash is not showing codes does not necessarily mean the car is not storing codes. Has to be interrogated by TS software.