Installing Strut Tower Brace Questions?

you shouldn't need to raise it, you want the struts loaded. no instructions in the box? i don't think you want to pre-load the brace, unless the instructions tell you to. i would think you want the brace pushing the struts outward rather than pulling them inward, but there's got to be instructions either in the box or online at the manufacturers site

 

The brace is to keep the two strut mounts from moving independently. Do all the work with the car on the ground. I could point you to some good instructions for a Gen III install but I don't know if they apply to a Gen II. Most of the work on a Gen III is to get the windshield wipers & tray out so the strut tower tops are accessible.

After you install the mounts on the strut towers, you'll have to adjust the ends of the bar so that it spans the two mount points' attachment points and stands vertical when unloaded. I'd suggest not tightening the strut tower mount nuts until you've installed the bar, then tighten the nuts. After installing the brace, (assuming it's like mine), hand-tighten (load) the bar by rotating it up and back. Mine rotated about 45 degrees. Go have fun!

 

I've linked the MS word file from the following post at the bottom:

http://priuschat.com/forums/gen-ii-...-strut-tower-brace-install-pictures-text.html

From Lee Gadget Dad's Installation instructions. The braces are different, but the install is the same.

Attached Files: BT Tech Strut Tower Brace Install - By GadgetDad (Lee) v2.doc

It was an easy install, it just took about an hour for me to install my tanabe-clone sabre-sport strut tower brace.

I used a piece of cardboard to keep track of which bolts go where. I pushed the bolts though the cardboard, and labeled what part the bolts came from. You have to remove the wiper assembly, cowl, lower cowl, to get to the strut towers. it all comes apart easily, and goes back together just the same. but there are more than a few bolts to keep track of.

I would also recommend purchasing the G7 Chassis Brace from eBay if you already haven't already gotten a brace for the rear, it took me 10 minutes to install and for less than $100 why not!? Here is a link to an available auction:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/G7-Performa...Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c234b8b69&vxp=mtr

 

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These things are pretty but you are getting about zero handling performance increase from them.

For one thing there's really not any body flex between these points, and if there was it wouldn't matter in the least with a fully rubber mounted suspension that has at least a 1/2" of cumulative mount movement.

If the Prius had 300 hp and you were cornering at 100 mph with a solid mounted suspension you "might" get .050" movement at these points. Eliminating the .050" movement might gain you .0005% increase in skid pad G's.

If you did replace all the rubber mounts with hard urethane or solid mounts and you wanted to lose that .050" movement these braces probably wouldn't do it, especially the top one.

The bends in the top mount make it weak, especially the small black tubing at the ends. The force that it takes to move this chassis .050" at this point is way more than these bends will handle.

The Prius suspension with it's torsion beam rear axle is one step above a tractor. These add on braces are going to give you just as much handling performance as the decal on the window, all they are doing is adding weight. You would be better served finding some urethane suspension bushings/mounts and some stiffer springs and sway bars.

If someone really wanted to improve Prius handling they would come up with a independent rear suspension retrofit.

 

How did you measure the body flex (or lack thereof) between the strut tower mounts? Did you use a mock bar or dial indicator? I have a hard time believing there is no flex... one can observe quite a bit just jacking up one corner of the car.

 

So what you're telling me that in no way a strut-tower brace, a stiffer under chassis brace and a rear sway bar will make no difference in the vehicles handling? I hate it when people say this, you obviously haven't tried the mods yourself, because I can tell you that they do make a difference. I drive 130+ miles every day, most of which is fast highway speeds. I have multiple opportunities to 'test' the suspension and vehicle handling everyday. Each mod has slightly increased the vehicle's handling. They may not seem like much, but they do improve the vehicle.

They are way more than just adding weight.

 

Hey what part number is the Tanabe-Sustec under brace? Is that the TUB151F Brace? It looks different than the one on the Tanabe website. can you post pictures of it once you get it installed?

 

Is that Tanabe underbrace install upfront? or in the rear? I wouldn't mind installing one more brace up front.

 

There is an awesome how-to someone on this forum, but I couldn't find it. I have one that fits the GenII that I bought, but never used. It's on ebay right now if anyone is interested. The link is below.
Tanabe Front Strut Tower Bar Toyota Prius 05 09 | eBay

 

Wow, Currently at $7.50 with $12.50 shipping. Pretty good deal. I'd bid on it but I just got my eBay version: Aluminum Front Upper Strut Tower Bar Brace Prius 04-09 NHW20 2nd Gen for $45 and free shipping. They are almost identical 'cept the Tanabe is a nice red color. Guess I better get out my 'rattle-can' paint!

Can't say I'd bid on your other items tho..

 

lol, no ugly Christmas sweater contests this year? Where is your Holiday spirit?

 

I looked for Gadget Dad's original write up, but the link is gone!
I may have the word file saved somewhere I'll try and find it and see if I can't post it again so we have access to it. It can be used for so much more than just the strut tower brace...

i searched my computer for the file but couldn't find it, I'm sure it was lost when my harddrive crashed last year... I might have it saved on a USB drive or my work computer, I'll let you know if I find the file, most likely sometime next week.

 

Anyone have the instructions. The link to the document doesnt work.

I know how to remove the wiper assembly and pan under the wipers and know the torque on the strut mounts. I am wondering about how to "load" the bar. I bought the tanabee strut tower brace from juiced hybrid but havent recieved it yet.

thanks !

 

Just a guess, but I would say make sure the wheels are fully on the ground so the strut towers are 'weight loaded' then install the strut tower brace (versus installing the brace with the struts not weight loaded with the front wheels off the ground.)

 

BT TECHSTRUTTOWER BRACE INSTALL TEXT​

(by GadgetDad – Lee)​

Start

Step 1: Remove the plastic cap covering the bolt on the driver's side wiper using a small flat blade screwdriver and lightly pry up on the cap. {Open the hood after cap removal}.
[It is not necessary to remove plastic shield as I did on this wiper. Bolts are accessible without removal.]
Step 1 continued: Using a 14mm socket, remove the bolt on the driver's side wiper and proceed to remove the two black nuts on the passenger side wiper. Remove both wiper arms from their mounting points. You might have to wiggle the wiper arms and pull from an angle in order to remove them but they will come off

Step 2: At the end of each side of the black plastic cowling is a plastic pin. Push up from underneath to get the pin to pop out. Grab the cowling and pull it towards you to remove it. {There is a seam in the middle that flexes to ease in removal}

Step 3: Once the cowling is removed, proceed to unplug the wiper motor connector from the harness. {The screwdriver is just for pointing here. Squeeze the release on the white part of the connector to free the joint} Remove the 5 bolts using a 10mm socket and lift the entire wiper motor assembly out. Be sure to set these parts aside and in order with their respective bolts. {Bolt #1}

Step 4: Unscrew the two 10mm bolts from the black rectangular electrical relay box on the front of the black metal panel that was under the wiper motor. Remove the seven 10mm bolts holding the metal tray on. Once the bolts that held the plate are removed, proceed to detach the plastic clips that hold the wiring harness. Once the harness clips are detached, simply lift the metal tray out so you have full un-impeded access to the top of the struts. {this is a good time to clean out the debris!}

Step 5: Using a 12mm socket, unscrew the three bolts on each strut tower.
On the passenger's side, at the top of the mounting surface, there is an electrical connector that needs to be moved. Gently pull out the connector where it is attached and either re-locate it to the small hole about an inch away to the right or you can neatly tuck it under the existing harness.

Put the corresponding bracket on each strut tower and install and tighten the three bolts to 30 ft/lbs of torque. Each bracket will be marked either driver's or passenger side to take any guess work out of the install. If the bracket does not fit properly on the top of the 3 studs, there might be some sheet metal interference that is preventing the bracket from attaching Simply take a flat head screwdriver and gently bend the sheet metal that is preventing the attachment of the bracket. {Torque to 30 ft/lbs}


Step 6: Position the BT Tech strut bar on to the brackets on each strut tower. There will be a label attached saying, UP, so please install the bar so that you can see this label. Once you are sure that the bar is installed correctly, place one of the supplied stainless washers and bolts through each side of the bracket. Be sure to install a supplied stainless washer on each side of the nut and washer. Using a 17mm open end wrench on the bolt and a 17mm socket on the nut, proceed to tighten both sides of the bar to the mounting brackets. Tighten to 30 ft/lbs of torque.


Step 7: Re-install the black metal plate using the 10mm bolts, {seven bolts}.... wiper motor assembly {five bolts} and plastic cowling. Do not forget to insert the push pin fasteners on each side to secure the cowling.


Step 8: Re-install the black rectangular relay box using the 2 10mm nuts. You will have to position the relay box in such a way to fit with the strut bar installed, but once the proper angle is achieved, the relay box will fit {snugly} in between the strut bar and metal panel and bolt correctly in place. Proceed to re-attach the harness loom to the metal panel. {No picture of re-attachment of harness loom but make sure it is re-attached to the metal tray.}

Step 9: Place the wiper arms over the studs and hold it in the correct position on the windshield. Proceed to tighten the bolts securely using a 14mm socket.
{Replace the plastic cap on driver’s side wiper arm after closing the hood.}
Finished!

Your installation is now complete!! Enjoy your new found handling but please drive SAFELY!! {Notice how cleanly it fits too}

{This strut brace is way cool and fits like a glove into the cramped engine compartment! Thanks to BT Tech!}

-Lee
{Gadgetdad}

Tips and Tricks for reassembly:

Metal Pan: Start to thread all the screws for the metal pan by hand first before tightening. you may have to adjust and shift the pan as you go along to get all of the holes to align.

Wiper motor assembly. Same as the pan, start threading all the screws by hand, get them all in where they belong, and then tighten.


Wipers. Make sure the wipers rest where they're supposed to before tightening. Once you have them set I found it easier to seat the wiper on the bolts by lifting the arm up.

Read more: http://priuschat.com/threads/modding-my-2008-touring-justdidit.111997/page-6#ixzz2OfClNFVF​

 

The front towers on a 2nd gen are fully against the firewall. If there is any flex it's very minimal and any bar with any kinks or bends is not going to do anything.

I've done numerous torsion tests on several different cars including full on race cars. The vast majority of all strut braces are not doing anything except bling.

 

I never said a sway bar wouldn't help.

My main issue is with a front strut tower brace on a 2nd gen. There's no appreciable movement there unless you went to full metal on metal suspension joints. Then to fix that you would need a strut brace that triangulates to the firewall. Except the firewall is right at the back of the strut tower.

 

So you're saying one of these won't make a difference. I was thinking about doing this and a sway bar. If a sway bar is the better option i'll just do that.