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A/C not working (Symptoms are different)

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Boston2008Gen2, Jun 27, 2013.

  1. Boston2008Gen2

    Boston2008Gen2 Junior Member

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    Vehicle:
    2012 Prius v wagon
    Model:
    III
    I have spent many hours in priuschat looking for "Things to check when your A/C is not working". None of the thread matches my issue.

    Last Summer:
    1. A/C was working but - Water would come inside the cabin at passenger side of the vehicle.
    2. A/C would stop working after 3-4 hrs of driving (blow warm air) - if you take a break at rest area about 20 mins, A/C will start working.
    3. That goes last summer - I didn't do anything except cleaning water.

    MY PROBLEMs ARE HERE!!
    ----------------------------------
    This summer A/C stopped working when I turned on for the first time after 6month. Here are the symptoms.

    1. When you start A/C --it makes noise (probably 10 -15 seconds). It looks like it is trying to start compressor or something else. Then the noise will go away until next 3-4 mins when it tries again.

    2. I checked coolant level- reservoir was empty. I added more coolant (May be 300 ml )- it got FULL.

    3. Bought refrigerant at walmart --- checked Low side pressure - it is ALWAYS at 100/110PSI. Ambient temperature here in local area is 85F. I let the engine run for 10 mins, took the reading still 110 PSI. Tried to add 134A (refrigerant) but not so much. It still blows HOT air. same symptom as problem #1 above.

    4. Cleaned "Cabin" filter - there were debris not so much - since I clean them everything 3 months.

    5. MFD - is clean. Yellow border on the AC is on.

    Is there any relation between coolant is empty?
    Why do I have 110 PSI in Low side?
    How to check if coolant inverter is working? (I am not sure about this question). My radiator fan spins fine.
    How to make sure if my compressor is still in good shape?
    Any help/suggestions as to what is happening?

    Thanks in Advance.
     
  2. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Water on pass side is because the condensate drip tube is clogged. Pull the carpet back left side where it ends at firewall. See black rubber hose penetrating the firewall. That's the clogged hose.

    If the hose is clogged that means the evap housing is filled with water. Probably a mess in that box with gunk as the evap housing was never serviced.

    Yellow line around ac button is ac is disabled as it is low on freon. Buying a can of freon at Walmart is quick way to destroy the compressor. Compressor needs special oil that you cannot buy at Walmart.

    Take car to auto ac repair place. You have a freon leak most likely in the condenser. They will inject die and quickly find the leak. Hopefully its not in the underdash evap coil. That's $$$$ Yahtzee!!

    Check face of condenser for fod damage. You'll be very lucky if the compressor is not lunched.

    And low engine coolant means the engine water pump is leaking and probably needs to be replaced. Get flashlight and look around area of front belt for green flecks. Thats dried up coolant coming from the wp weep hole.
     
  3. Boston2008Gen2

    Boston2008Gen2 Junior Member

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    Thanks for your time.....Please see below in RED....

    Water on pass side is because the condensate drip tube is clogged. Pull the carpet back left side where it ends at firewall. See black rubber hose penetrating the firewall. That's the clogged hose.If the hose is clogged that means the evap housing is filled with water. Probably a mess in that box with gunk as the evap housing was never serviced. - My cabin filter is clean. Where to find EVAP housing? How to service Evap housing? (can I do this?)

    Yellow line around ac button is ac is disabled as it is low on freon. Buying a can of freon at Walmart is quick way to destroy the compressor. Compressor needs special oil that you cannot buy at Walmart. -- Yellow line is NOT disable in my car. I have not used the Refrigerant from Walmart.

    Take car to auto ac repair place. You have a freon leak most likely in the condenser. They will inject die and quickly find the leak. Hopefully its not in the underdash evap coil. That's $$$$ Yahtzee!! ---- Where is the condenser located ? If it is the condenser then will that be little expensive? How much underdash evap coil cost to replace.

    Check face of condenser for fod damage. You'll be very lucky if the compressor is not lunched. ---- Where to find condenser?

    And low engine coolant means the engine water pump is leaking and probably needs to be replaced. Get flashlight and look around area of front belt for green flecks. Thats dried up coolant coming from the wp weep hole- I do not see any green flecks in the engine. Everything is clean. coolant is fill now (remember I had to fill only the reservoir which took just 300ml)
     
  4. Joe 26

    Joe 26 Member

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    Hopefully I can help translate for you. As to the evap housing, that is the heater box assembly under the dash. If you pull back the pass side carpet and look under the dash, you will see a tube that leads through the firewall. That is where the condensate (water) is supposed to drip out. That rubber tube or the fitting on the box is most likely clogged. You can try to stick something relatively soft (plastic wire tie, etc) through the tube from underneath the car to dislodge the gunk blocking it, or disconnect at the box end and do the same both through the tube and into the box. Beware, it may be full of water and gush out.

    11o psi on the low side usually indicates that the compressor is not running, the compressor is internally broken, or the system is grossly overcharged. Unless you have something like a blown fuse (which in itself indicates a problem), you really need a professional to look at this.
     
  5. Boston2008Gen2

    Boston2008Gen2 Junior Member

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    I will check for "Blown" fuse and also try to stick plastic wire or something to dislodge the block.
    But if fuse were blown -- my #1 problem (from above i.e. it tries to start the compressor every 3-4 mins and you can hear noise) should n't happen correct ? Also if the fuse is blown - A/C Yellow ring MFD should not glow - which is not the case though!
     
  6. Joe 26

    Joe 26 Member

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    Without seeing the vehicle it is tough to diagnose, however 110 psi on the low side is most likely because the compressor is not running or working when you are checking it. The compressor could be failing and it's attempts to turn are what you are hearing when you first turn it on.
     
  7. Boston2008Gen2

    Boston2008Gen2 Junior Member

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    Checked Today:
    1. No blown fuse
    2. I inserted a wire into the drain pipe -- its clean. No gushout of water.
     
  8. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Your first post clearly said you bought freon at Walmart and add some "but not so much".

    Condenser is mounted in front of the rad and looks just like a radiator. Take the top plastic engine cover the one that covers the radiator off. Push the screws out from behind while turning they come right out.
    Look at the face of the condenser for damage or mangled fins or if the face /fins are clogged by dirt or corrosion.
    Check if the bottom plastic cover plate is intact. If you can look down and see the ground the plate is missing. That plate protects the condenser from fod damage. Almost a certainty if that plate is missing your condenser will get damaged.

    Take your car to an ac repair place.
     
  9. Boston2008Gen2

    Boston2008Gen2 Junior Member

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    Is there anything I can do to find out if my compressor has gone bad? (I can buy a compressor for cheap and ask mechanic to change it for me - Of course only if he thinks its compressor as well)
     
  10. Boston2008Gen2

    Boston2008Gen2 Junior Member

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    Updates:
    ---------
    I went to local mechanic shop - he seem to be very knowledgeable. After looking at the reading 110psi on low side, he said compressor is not working. Compressor won't work for 2 reasons - there is no refrigerent or its broken. We tried adding refrigerent and resetting some switch. Compressor won't start. - he finally said compressor is broken.

    I bought used compressor, a/c compressor oil and he replaced it. Now A/C works. Spent $175 for compressor, $20 for oil and $200 for labor. Now my reading is 45 psi on low, 175 psi on high.