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Clicking & Creaking Noise when turning, braking, accelerating!!

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Sam Dean, Jul 6, 2013.

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  1. Sam Dean

    Sam Dean Member

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    by the way - how would i find out if there was any oil remaining in the AC system? Would the vacuum test indicate this? How so?

    I was thinking of getting some UV dye which i could put through the system, using the vacuum pump, and that would show up leaks and their location - but unsure if there's any other methods
     
    #61 Sam Dean, Jul 18, 2013
  2. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    The UV dye is put into the system when you pressurise it. This is generally used to find small leaks, as the pressure pushes out the dye that you then look for with an ultraviolet light.
    When you evacuate the system you turn off the pump and the system should hold the vacuum. If it does it is reasonably safe to assume there are no leaks.
    With your system it is reasonable to assume the pipework on the drivers side of the car was replaced along with possibly the A/C radiator (called the condenser) at the front of the car. This all may be fine and in sound condition, just that the "repairer" did not refill the system. We have no way of knowing.

    I would have tried to pressurise the system (not fully) with my aerosol can method just to see if it holds pressure.
    Now I am not saying what your thinking of doing is wrong far from it ("there's more than one way of killing a pig"black country saying). I have a very accurate digital pressure gauge that I could measure what ever pressure I had put in, leave it for a week or so and check again (at the same temperature as near as reasonable) to see if the system had lost pressure.

    The problem is if there is a leak you have to empty the system to repair it loosing the gas and possibly the oil.

    John (Britprius)
     
    #62 Britprius, Jul 18, 2013
  3. Sam Dean

    Sam Dean Member

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    okay perfect....so how about i employ a pressure detecting method before I get anything else, just to confirm that the system can hold pressure? Where can i get this kit or can i make it myself?
     
    #63 Sam Dean, Jul 18, 2013
  4. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    First you need an aerosol can of R134A pipe freezer sray You can order this from via Amazon if you wish or pick a can up from (Screwfix ) if there is a store near you.
    Artic Spray Pipe Freezing Can 240g
    Rothenberger Freeze-Pak Instant Pipe Freezing Kit 64004

    I use the Rothengerger as it is over double the size of the other and is sufficient to fill the system but is double the price. At Screwfix you can buy just the freezer without the "pipe kit".

    Basically remove the L cap drill a small hole in the middle of the top so that the small hose supplied with the can will be a tight push fit if it is a bit slack glue it in place. Your now ready to pressurise the system.

    Next time I am buy my Midlands breaker I will pick up High & low replacement caps for you.

    John (Britprius)
     
    #64 Britprius, Jul 18, 2013
  5. Sam Dean

    Sam Dean Member

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    Thanks John :)

    Okay - once I've pressurised the system and established that there are no leaks in the system - will i need to empty it all out so it can be evacuated?
     
    #65 Sam Dean, Jul 18, 2013
  6. Sam Dean

    Sam Dean Member

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    out of interest - if either of the valves are faulty - can these be replaced with the standard valves/same as the tyre ones? in the same way?

    Only reason i ask is because I read somewhere that in most cases, leaks tend to take place at the actual valve points
     
    #66 Sam Dean, Jul 18, 2013
  7. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    The valves although of similar design to tyre valves are larger in dia and therefore not interchangeable. Do not squirt water into the valve to check them as this could sit in the valve and enter the system when being gassed.

    John (Britprius)
     
    #67 Britprius, Jul 19, 2013
  8. Sam Dean

    Sam Dean Member

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    I ordered the bushing today and so I should have it tomorrow

    How can I jack the car up via front jack points? I know the prius has them but I just couldn't see anything that stood out

    Thanks
     
    #68 Sam Dean, Jul 19, 2013
  9. Sam Dean

    Sam Dean Member

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    Out of interest, what torque measurement should one tighten the wishbone nuts back on at?
     
    #69 Sam Dean, Jul 19, 2013
  10. Sam Dean

    Sam Dean Member

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    Just another thought

    This evening I was looking at the front tyres and they said 50 psi on them. And they all seem to be a mix and match of pirelli, michellin and another brand. Does this mean I should move them back to 50 psi again? Because this is where they were last time

    I'll take some photos tomorrow
     
    #70 Sam Dean, Jul 19, 2013
  11. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    Do not blow your tyres up to 50psi unless you want a rock hard drive.
    The pressure marked on the side wall of the tyre is the maximum safe design pressure. The sensible pressure range for the Prius in the UK is in the range of 36to40psi for the fronts with the rears set 2psi lower. The higher pressures will give better fuel economy, but with a harsher ride.

    I am not 100% sure on this, but I believe in the UK it is an offence to use greatly under or over inflated tyres on the highway, and comes under the same legal umbrella "tyre safety" as tread depth and tyre condition.

    John (Britprius)
     
    #71 Britprius, Jul 20, 2013
  12. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    Sam I think a good investment for you would be a "Haynes" manual, not the best of manuals but would give most of the information such as torque settings and dismantling procedures that would be help full to you.

    John (Britprius)
     
    #72 Britprius, Jul 20, 2013
  13. Sam Dean

    Sam Dean Member

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    so i changed both bushes on the right hand side front wishbone and the clicking was still there

    I had a local mechanic look into the sound alittle deeper and he found that the top of the strut mount on the right hand side was not even - in comparison to the left hand side

    i think they re-used the whole strut and shock absorber maybe from the collision (?)

    here are 2 pictures of the faulty looking strut mount and 1 picture of the healthier one

    what could this be? is it just a case of replacing the strut mount - or could it be the whole shock absorber aswell (maybe being bent?)

    how can i repair this? I have seen quite a few instructions online - but I don't know how to diagnose this and pinpoint exactly what it is that needs replacing

    thoughts welcome
     

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    #73 Sam Dean, Aug 1, 2013
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