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2004 with 269,000 km gets red triangle of death

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by corey bing, Aug 28, 2013.

  1. corey bing

    corey bing Junior Member

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    Driving home last night and she shut down. Red Triangle of Death shows on the idiot light cluster, a car symbol with ! thru it on the CRT and the word problem. She coasts to a stop. Display shows the hybrid battery is almost fully charged, the door is not open. It has oil. The 12V battery has been replaced once and the lights and everything are bright so I doubt that is it. Shutting it off and on gives me the same error. Engine never comes on. I am going to get a code reader and see if that tells me anything. If anyone has any suggestions..let me know.
     
  2. penquin230

    penquin230 "Golden Hawk"

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    It could be your 12v battery. The 12v battery runs the computers and it can cause screwy things to happen . Check the battery 1st...
     
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  3. 3prongpaul

    3prongpaul Hybrid Shop Owner, worked on 100's of Prius's

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    could be inverter coolant pump died and inverter overheated. This causes all kinds of weirdness. Scan the car with a good code reader to know for sure.
     
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  4. corey bing

    corey bing Junior Member

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    Thanks. Will check both. Be surprised if it was the battery as it was running when it happened, and the headlights and all seem fine.

    Is there a way to reset the system on the Prius? Some kind of master boot. Does unhooking the 12v batter do that?
     
  5. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    yes. and welcome to priuschat!:) (even tho you've been a member since '08.;) )
     
  6. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Yes.
     
  7. corey bing

    corey bing Junior Member

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    OK...so I pulled the battery and it reset, and how everything is working normally. Imagine that cleared out the error codes too...so I guess the only thing to do now is drive it and see if it happens again.
     
  8. HaroldW

    HaroldW Active Member

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    I would check for circulation in the inverter coolant tank. Have car on ready and remove filler cap and check for movement in the coolant.H
     
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  9. uart

    uart Senior Member

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    +1




    NO! Unless you want the same thing to happen again, and this time maybe completely blow the inverter (4 digit repair bill) then listen to the advice given and check that your inverter coolant is circulating before doing anything else.
     
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  10. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    Again take heed of the advice.

    John (Britprius)
     
  11. corey bing

    corey bing Junior Member

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    I hear you. Checked the coolant for the inverter and it looked fine. Fluid level was fine and it was moving. Glanced at the radiator coolant and noticed it was way below the fill line. Topped it up and it has gone 200 km with no issues now. I did the conversion wrong on this post. It has 269,000 miles on it...435,000 km. I was thinking maybe the main battery was toast..turns out it looks like the problem low on rad fluid. Dah! How did I miss that?
     
  12. kenoarto

    kenoarto Senior Member

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    does "pulled the battery" mean replaced old worn out 12v with new?
     
  13. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Did you also check the engine coolant level in the radiator itself, not just the translucent overflow container? If not, you will need to remove the large black plastic cover over the radiator for access to the radiator cap.

    In case you are wondering how to remove the six plastic fasteners, rotate each fastener with a Phillips screwdriver while exerting upwards force on the cover. The fastener will pop out of the hole.

    No, OP means that he temporarily disconnected the 12V battery to clear the DTC.
     
  14. kenoarto

    kenoarto Senior Member

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    Let's see now, OP has very old battery. OP disconnects battery. Problem goes away.
    OP still hasn't tested battery (a free, 5 minute, tool free procedure). Ya, must be something other than battery.
     
  15. DebbyD

    DebbyD Junior Member

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    I am also having a problem similar, except when its parked it dies and won't start. Drove it 2 days ago and today nothing lights up! Just installed new 12 volt battery about 4 months ago. Jumping it will make it start. Could this also be an inverter problem? Also I just noticed that it is making a noise comming from the fuse box under the hood which appears to be the abs fuses. Yes the dash abs lights were on before the car quit starteing but the brakes were working good. I need to get this up and rtunning any help wouldd be appreciated.
     
  16. usnavystgc

    usnavystgc Die Hard DIYer and Ebike enthusiast.

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    Debby, If jumping it makes it start and it runs fine after that, there are only 2 possible causes:
    1. The 12 v battery is bad
    2. The wiring to/from the 12 v battery has a loose connection or is bad
     
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  17. DebbyD

    DebbyD Junior Member

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    Today it is not starting up when being jumped (actually on a charger) we can't get into the hatch because its locked so we cant get to the battery. Unless you know how to override it.
     
  18. usnavystgc

    usnavystgc Die Hard DIYer and Ebike enthusiast.

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    Lol. The only way to get the hatch open is to go thru the back from the back seats but... you should be able to jump it from the front. Under the hood in the fuse box is a "jump" point. Hook a known good battery to that point (DANGER, dont reverse polarity). Then you should be able to open the hatch.

    PS: If the hatch is not opening, its def a problem with 12v pwr.
     
  19. uart

    uart Senior Member

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    From what DebbyD has said I'd assume that they already have a charger on that front jump point but still can't get power. So it sounds as through the battery is either really bad (shorted cells etc) or there is a bad connection on the wiring. In this case I think it's safer to go directly to the battery than to try anything else from the front at this stage.

    DebbyD, there is a small release lever somewhere there in the back, accessed under the floor panel where the spare tire is. You've got to fold the seats down and crawl through to access it. I haven't personally done it, but loads of people here have done, so assume it's not too hard to find.
     
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  20. hill

    hill High Fiber Member

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    People - the OEM 12v is easily killed. Once it's mortally wounded, it often will be easily killed again. If your OEM is over 4years old - it's on borrowed time. The 12v battery threads are many. That's because many of us try to get more out of the little 12v guy than it can handle. Change it !! Get an Optima ( Optima DS46B24R Optima battery direct fit replacement for Prius 2004 + , Prius V & Plug-in Prius with Instructions ), and never look back. No longer will you have to wonder if your 12v is "still ok" when you forget to turn of the dome light ... or run the radio too long in aux mode etc.
    ;)