EV mod connector pin/grounding problems

make sure that you pry up the white retainer strip on the side of the plug. If you don't you won't get the pin in far enough.

 

i used one of those jeweler screwdrivers. got the smallest one and caught the edge to push it in. but Frank is probably right. if the the plug is not separated far enough, the pin will not go in no matter how hard you push on it. i had the same issue and just went back and separated the plug just a bit more and the pin went right in.

 

I actually used the jeweler screwdriver and pushed it down the slot to make the slot a little wider. after i did that, i was able to put the wire down pretty easy and EV was installed.

 

OK, I didn't find this task nearly as difficult as many of the stories on this and related threads, but the caveat is that I work in the control systems industry and work with these kinds of cables, pins, and connectors on a regular basis. I've since done this mod on a couple of friend's Prii, no problems on any of the three so far. I go with the OEM version, but it seems that the problem with all of the mods is getting pin 27 into it's plug.

1. I've been using DB9/DB25 female computer cable pins (receptacles). These receptacles have a round cross section, and the pin in the ECU housing has a rectantangular cross section, so the fit isn't perfect. If we were trying to carry current I wouldn't got this way, but for a momentary signal they work fine (no problems so far with three installs). The female receptacles are split in half, and the split allows them to open up and fit over the ECU pins. They have the same "hooks" that hold them into the plug housing. You can get the pins at most good electronics stores or at Radio Shack. At RS the solder version is 276-1538 and the crimp version is 276-1428. Both of these come with 10 pins and the DB9 connector, but for $1.59 you can throw out the stuff you don't need.

2. When you get the pins GET A PIN INSERTION TOOL. Don't try and use the tiny screwdriver approach. At RS the tool is 276-1426 and goes for $3.79. You can find them for as low as $1.79 elsewhere (Google "DB9 pin insertion tool"). You can also get a pin insertion tool for the rectangular pins you remove from under the steering wheel, but they're harder to come by.
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3. When you attach your wire to your pin (receptacle) use 24ga wire and use the tool to check the size of your connection. The tool consists of a very thin, very stiff tube cut in half. Try and lay the wire and the soldered/crimped part of the pin in the channel on the tool. If it won't fit in the channel it won't fit in the plug housing. Trim it down/clean it up until it fits in the tool channel. Take a look at the male pin in the ECU and note it's orientation. When you put the receptacle in the housing try and align the split so it matches up with the flat sides of the pin. Once you have the receptacle lined up in the tool, slide the pin, wire, and tool into the plug housing. The tool goes into the housing along with the wire and pin. Push until you feel the hooks engage. Pull the tool out, then try and pull the wire out. No tweezers on the latch, no making do. Like I said, I've had no problems using this method, the pins have seated perfectly. Definitely worth $4.

4. Make your ground connection. I use a tap on the pin one wire (similar to the tap you would use on the outlet power mod, available at any auto parts store). Using the tap means you don't have to cut/splice the wire. Plug the whole assembly back into the ECU. I usually fire up the car at this point and short the two wires together momentarily to test the connections. If all is well you can run the wire to your switch and close up the dash.

Hope that helps.

 

the driver side vent cover is a real pita... nothing to grab on to... but all you do is push down on the top and pop it off. that piece alone took nearly 50% of my assemble AND disassemble time when i did my CANVIEW