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2001 Prius, Codes p3000 and p3030. Please help!

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by jekisah, Feb 9, 2014.

  1. jekisah

    jekisah New Member

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    In a pinch, I recently bought a 2001 Prius, used. The car I previously owned had kicked the bucket, and I needed something ASAP on a severely limited budget. I came across this Prius, it was in my price range, it looked and drove great, and as far as my dad and I could tell everything seemed to be working fine.

    Let me be straightforward. I am a 21 year old female who knows little to nothing about cars. A week ago, (on a Friday) the check engine light came on, and the Multi-Function Display was saying it was the hybrid system. So I called Toyota, but the soonest they could get it in was the following Tuesday. I live 30 miles from the nearest Toyota service center, so I didn't want to just drop it off until they could get to it. When i went to leave my house Tuesday morning to take the car to Toyota, the light had gone off, but I figured i should get it checked anyway, just to be sure.

    It pulled codes p3000 and p3030, and they said that the bus bar needed to be tightened. But since the light was off, they told me just to monitor it, and if the light came back on to take it back in and have the codes ran again. The light came back on the next day. It's still running fine and everything, and the battery is charging how it should be (according to the energy display on the MFD) so my dad is advising not to take it in quite yet, because we don't want to (pardon the expression) pay out the nice person to have it fixed if it's something that's not going to cause serious damage or something we could fix ourselves. Unfortunately, we're not quite sure how to fix this.

    If anyone could give us any advice/instruction/information on what to do in this situation, I would certainly appreciate it. My dad doesn't have any experience with hybrid cars, but can fix many basic "regular" car problems, and has experience with electrical systems (? Not quite sure how else to put that, but he has wired houses for electricity and knows basic electrical stuff and isn't scared of the voltage or anything like that.)

    I'm kind of strapped for cash at the moment, so I'm honestly looking for the cheapest way to do a quality job of fixing this problem. If the only way to get it fixed would be to take it to Toyota, I would deal with it, but I'd prefer to not have to spend a ton on it. I know that a 13 year old car with 150,000 is probably not worth putting too much money/work into, but seeing as how i'm going to be paying on it for 3 more years regardless, I would like to get it fixed.
     
  2. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    DTC P3000 is posted by the hybrid vehicle ECU and indicates the traction battery ECU reports a problem.
    DTC P3030 is posted by the traction battery ECU and means that a battery block voltage sense line is inoperative (this is why your dealer suggested that tightening the busbars might help, although a sense wire may actually have broken.)

    I suggest that your dad should download repair manual info at techinfo.toyota.com so that he can research the two DTC and determine his ability to deal with this situation. If in fact a sense wire is broken or loose, it will be a very simple repair. Good luck.
     
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  3. jekisah

    jekisah New Member

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    Thank you so much! I'll have him do that!
     
  4. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    I would recommend getting a Prius-aware scanner. If you have a Windows XP laptop, a miniVCI would be a reasonable solution. However, a ScanGauge II would also work by adding some XGAUGEs. The ScanGauge II can also be used for driving. Search the forum and read what we've found over time.

    Our NHW11 (2001-03) Prius is operated by half a dozen, control computers. A Prius-aware scanner connects to the On Board Diagnostic (OBD) to communicate with these control computers. They have a wealth of detailed information that can tell you and your Dad what is going on.

    Now I'm 'old school' and prefer to have paper manuals. The 2001-03 model year maintenance manuals are available, used:
    • Volume I - the diagnostic manual, translates the computer codes into possible problems and how to further fault-isolate the problem.
    • Volume II - the repair manual, how to fix the various subsystems.
    • Electrical diagrams - a separate manual, excellent for tracing circuits, if needed.
    New, I paid $300 for the set. Used they are about half that cost. Avoid the CDs as those are not Toyota produced but someone's attempt to digitize the manuals . . . quality often leaves a lot to be desired.

    BTW, don't let the technology intimidate you or your dad. Check around as there may be 'auto repair for ladies' available in different schools. There is nothing magic about the technology, just a different set of tools.

    GOOD LUCK!
    Bob Wilson
     
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  5. jekisah

    jekisah New Member

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    I have another question. Does anyone have an estimate of how long/far it would be safe to drive the car before i get this fixed without causing more damage? I am following the advice given so far and getting the manuals and going over them with my dad, but in the off chance that he won't be able to fix it or it takes a long time, I'm a little concerned because I have a few longer trips (An hour+ one way) coming up in the next few weeks, and just want to make sure it would be safe to take.
     
  6. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    Assuming it is just a battery block sensing line that is broken, no other damage will be caused by continuing to use the car. There are 19 of these lines in the battery, and they are there to compare the condition of pairs of battery modules (38 modules) with each other so that battery condition can be continually monitored.

    John (Britprius)
     
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  7. jekisah

    jekisah New Member

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    Thank you!!
     
  8. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    The open question is 'why did the sense line fail?'

    The most common fault is some electrolyte leaked out of a module and 'ate' the copper sense line. It also means the copper buss bars are also subject to attack.

    The electrolyte leaks out when a battery module gets too hot. This can happen with high-speed driving over hilly terrain. This is where a ScanGauge II can help detect overheating and 'head them off at the pass.'

    If you have to drive in hilly terrain or mountainous areas, a good practice is to follow trucks. NOT TAILGATE!

    Trucks go up hills at speeds that also match optimum climb speeds for our NHW11 Prius. Then on the back-side, use "B" to descend to avoid putting a heavy charge on the traction battery. Charging is exothermic, causing the battery modules to run hot.

    Later Prius have much improved modules. You might start looking around and pricing a traction battery rebuilder who uses later modules. The only risk, not everyone is 'up to speed' in the technology. However, my understanding is the new owners of ReInVolt have an arrangement for selling their traction batteries through either AutoZone or NAPA . . . I'm not sure which.

    BTW, search around the forum. There is a lot of good information about how to drive our NHW11 efficiently.

    GOOD LUCK!
    Bob Wilson
     
  9. yotatoter

    yotatoter Member

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    I would be careful how much I would use it,not because it will harm anything, but usually if the sensing wire is broken it will not restart..
     
  10. royfrontenac

    royfrontenac Member

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    this is Roy from Canada - I have had this problem and the cause was as others said, a connection at the battery terminal. The small sensor wire is joined to the battery by a terminal that has a very tiny neck that fits into the plastic orange cover plate. The terminal neck breakswith a fine crack that would open and close intermitently giving the 3030 code. I repaired by soldering a wire around the neck of the terminal. Finding the break is difficult as you have to loosen the nuts holding the terminal on and wiggle the terminal to see if it is broken. Do not have to remove battery just remove cover safely (disconnect orange safety switch) and use rubber gloves to avoid shock.
     
  11. jekisah

    jekisah New Member

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    Thank you for all the help, everyone. Unfortunately before we got the chance to attempt to fix this problem, the car broke down completely and after having it towed to Toyota, we discovered that the cells were charging at different rates and the entire hybrid battery needs to be replaced. As I'm still paying off the loan for the car, it would be rather inconvenient to not get it replaced, because then i would have to go for the next 3 years without a car until it's paid off.
     
  12. yotatoter

    yotatoter Member

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    I am very skeptical that they are charging at different rates,I hate to say this but I am wondering if toyota is trying to take advantage of you because of your gender.. Like I said,if the sensing wire broke completely it will not allow the car to start.. Just FWI, toyota cannot repair battery packs.. They will only tell you they are bad and you need a new pack.. Sorry to rant,,just my 2 cents..