Master, engine, VSC and engine lights all came up at the same time

What item did you w want to order? Check to make sure your car is not low on oil in the engine

SM-N900P ?

 

12.4 volts while it's on is a big problem. Someone else will come answer your question about battery and give you some suggestions. Many knowledgeable battery people on here

The car jumps in Park? When the ice engine starts during mornings?

SM-N900P ?

 

The car only has 1 gear, you won't feel it switch. It's not like a regular transmission.

Battery not charging on mfd display could be a problem. That's the main hybrid battery state of charge indicator.

The car jolts in Park because the ice engine is constantly turning on to charge the hybrid battery, you are saying it's not charging properly.

If the hybrid battery is the original one, it may be failing. How many miles on your car? I would still make sure your 12v battery isn't giving tout all these weird symptoms

SM-N900P ?

 

The recommended hybrid specialist who is a independent operator is a four hour drive from you.

Other than those folks, if you local mechanic can't do the work for you, your only choice is the dealer or DIY.

The indy I am referring to is the following.

FLORIDA


Mellor’s Automotive Inc.
1410 W. Newhaven Ave.
West Melborne, FL 32904
(321) 956-1997
Contact: Joshua J. Mellor
[email protected]

These folks are about 3 and a half hours from you. They are indy also and work on Hybrids.

Auto Repair Shop Largo, FL | Auto Repair Shop 33771 | Karl & Son's Auto Repair Inc

The Prius does move around a little bit in Park when the engine starts, so that much is normal.

The lights and the sounds you describe almost sound like the traction battery is failing. Do you hear a fan running in the back? There is a vent on the rear seat on the passenger side. Do you hear a lot of noise coming from that vent when you are driving the car?

You mentioned no codes. Can you say where you took your Prius to have the codes pulled?

I would not change the 12 volt battery unless I knew for certain that it is failing. That battery is NOT cheap. Most people get shocked when they learn the cost of the battery, especially for the size of said battery.

How many miles on your Prius?

 

1. Make the Prius READY and open the hood. Look at the inverter coolant reservoir, located between the engine and inverter. Do you see fluid turbulence in the reservoir? If not, the inverter coolant pump has failed.

2. Given the presence of the warning lights that you described, at minimum the engine ECU and skid control ECU have logged DTC. You'll need to visit your local Toyota dealer to have the codes read, since the generic scanner that you used is not capable of reading the codes.

3. "Battery only gets up to 12.4V when it is on": What does "on" mean? Is the Prius READY, or is it IG-ON where the dashboard is full of warning lights, or is it ACC-ON where only the MFD lights up and the stereo can be played?

 

Ok, do what Patrick suggested about checking the turbulence in the inverter coolant reservoir.

Also, it would be wise to visit a dealer that has the correct device whereas the codes can be read.

I would also make note of what Patrick said in #2 and 3 above.

So far it sounds like a hybrid failure. The question is what part of it though. Look at the coolant reservoir and report back. NOTE: The Prius MUST be in "Ready" model when the fluid is flowing.

If the fluid is flowing, it normally looks like the level of the fluid in the rear of the bottle is higher than the front, plus if you remove the cap on top you would see the liquid moving inside the bottle.

What we need to know now is if you see the fluid moving when the Prius is in "Ready" mode.

The bottle looks like what is pictured below. You will find it under the hood.

 

OK, if you are certain that the voltage is only 11.4V when READY, this shows you that the DC/DC converter in the inverter is not working. Often, this is because the 100A DC/DC fusible link has blown. The voltage when READY should be ~13.8V.

Usually the reason that the DC/DC fusible link blew is if someone screwed up a jumpstart, by incorrectly hooking up the jumpstart battery to the Prius. However if this problem only started recently and you did not jumpstart the car just prior to the problem, then the inverter may have just decided to fail for some other reason.

I suggest you verify the voltage measurements that you just reported, and if they are correct then you will need to arrange to have the car towed to your local Toyota dealer for service. You cannot drive the car any distance in this condition.

 

OMG, I missed that completely. I do see she posted while I was typing up my reply. 11.4 volts don't sound good at all. All the more reason for the OP to visit the dealer to check things out.

Still don't know how many miles on this car, but being a 06 model probably out of warranty by now.

 

12.4V is not good enough, when READY. And actually, your 12V battery is in pretty good condition to produce that much voltage under a very heavy load (since, with failure of the DC/DC converter, the battery has to keep all electrical systems running when READY.)

Therefore, there is no change to my recommendation that you need to arrange a tow to your local Toyota dealer.

 

Inverter not working properly. Should read 13.8 to 14.2 in Ready Mode.

The question why is it not working correctly. A detailed diagnosis by a dealer should pinpoint the problem area. The inverter is NOT cheap.

Like Patrick said, I would not drive the car in this condition, I would have it towed in and repaired properly. Sorry to give you information such as this.

FWIW, a new inverter from Toyota is roughly 4ooo dollars. If Toyota tells you need that, I would try to find a used one and have that installed. Even buying direct online with a discount you are still looking at 3000.


HYBRID COMPONENTS / HYBRID COMPONENTS / HYBRID COMPONENTS / INVERTER ASSY
INVERTER ASSY Prius
MSRP Core ? Online Price
$4,007.92 $0.00 $3,005.94
View Part Diagram -- Item #4
2006 Toyota Prius Parts - AutoNation Toyota Gulf Freeway Parts

 

Could it possibly be the 12V battery in the back? If the battery is bad and the inverter is working properly it still could do this right? I know with a good alternator in a car it will not show proper readings if you try to measure it through the bad battery.

Gus//

 

The 12V battery is not the problem here. If it were, the voltage at IG-ON would be substantially lower than the OP's measurement of 12.4V.

The voltage when READY should always be greater than the voltage at IG-ON if the DC/DC converter is working.

 

You could buy an advanced code reader and get the codes we need to diagnose without using the dealer.