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2004 Gen2 differences with later models?

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Main Forum' started by SteveWlf, Jun 16, 2014.

  1. SteveWlf

    SteveWlf Old-on-Hold

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    Is there any significant differences between the earliest Gen2 and later models. In particular, CVT tranny??

    I am looking at a 2004 Gen2 that has some signs of MG2 burned stator. I have two Gen2 parts cars with good CVTs and if there is no difference, internally, I would want to open the tranny end cover in the car and if it is a burned out MG2 stator I could change it in place, rather than pull and swap out the whole tranny.

    I see this done on YouTube and it seems much easier than the alternative mentioned.

    Back to the basic question, the only difference I have seen so far is the difference in the dash display. I think I remember some other thing mentioned about the CAN codes also. What else should I be aware of.

    I am planning to purchase this, low mileage, clean car for my son. He already has a 2005 Prius but needs a second now for his daily commute.

    Thanks,

    Steve
     
  2. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    I believe what you are seeing online on youtube is a Gen1 mg2 swap, not Gen2. The Gen2 is not as easy and from what I understand, swapping out the entire transaxle is probably the same amount of work or possibly less.

    There was a TSB that mentioned later model 2007 to 2009 transaxle were a little different, in that it was improved. I believe this was to address the mg2 stator problem? in the 2004-early 2007 models. The part numbers for the transaxles didn't change from 2004-2009, so I'm unsure how they were able to catalog the improved transaxles from the non improved versions.

    quoted from TSB

    Some customers with 2004 to 2007 model year Prius vehicles may experience a
    M.I.L. “ON” condition with DTC P0AA6 or P3009 with information codes 526 and 613.
    The transaxle assembly has been improved to prevent this condition.
     
  3. SteveWlf

    SteveWlf Old-on-Hold

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    You are correct, now I see that that in car change is a Gen1. However, as I look at the stater replacement of a Gen2 MG2, removed from car and I see very little difference in the in the end plate removal and stater change out. Would the difficulty you refer to be in the interferences between the CVT and the left side of the car, etc.. I do see that on the Gen1 she had removed the left wheel/hub/axle/strut but that is fairly straight forward job and non invasive in my opinion. I am, of course comparing this to the full engine-tranny remove, along with the power conversion system, and radiator, as I see in the latter video.

    I'm still looking for a YouTube video on just the removal of the complete CVT but suspect that would be as complicated as the full engine tranny removal.

    Thanks,
    Steve
     
  4. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    I believe you have to remove the tranny from the car to do the mg2 swap, since the tranny is removed, just swap entire complete tranny unit, less work

    SM-N900P ?
     
  5. SteveWlf

    SteveWlf Old-on-Hold

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    Since I have a couple parts cars here, I will look more closely at the these alternatives by starting with one of them. The left front suspension has already been removed and I will see if there is enough access to do an in-car change.
    Otherwise, I agree with your recommendation on the complete change out. I already have a spare complete CVT sitting in the store room. (I didn't pull it, just picked it up on CL a while back).

    Not being argumentative, just looking to save labor and over all system complications involved with the more complex removal process. And I do appreciate the advice.

    Steve
     
  6. usnavystgc

    usnavystgc Die Hard DIYer and Ebike enthusiast.

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    I would think you could do the MG2 swap on the Gen II almost as easy but I'm not sure. The only added equipment from the Gen I is the "thermos" and an updated inverter. Other than that, very similar.
     
  7. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    On Gen I, you can buy mg2 by itself and install. GenII, you can't. That means you have to remove mg2 from another complete tranny. I guess it could be quite similar once you get the mg2 out. The book time is 10 hours to do the entire swap, not sure you'll save much time by doing mg2 by itself.

    Keep us posted with your results

    SM-N900P ?
     
    #7 JC91006, Jun 17, 2014
    Last edited: Jun 17, 2014
    usnavystgc likes this.
  8. SteveWlf

    SteveWlf Old-on-Hold

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    When you refer to "book time is 10 hours", is that to do a full engine tanny (plus all the interferences)? Or, is there a procedure to remove the tranny while leaving the engine in the car?
    (I'm not sure the latter is even possible??)

    Steve
     
  9. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    The correct way to do it is to remove engine and tranny together, then separate the tranny from engine, reassemble and install. That is 10 hours, according to alldata.

    When I had mine done at a shop, they removed the tranny without dropping the engine, took twice as long. This was the first time the shop did a Prius tranny swap, so extra time was needed as a learning curve as well.

    If you have the time, try and remove just MG2 while it's on the car. It would save a lot of labor if it's possible and it would add to group knowledge of what can be done :)

    SM-N900P ?
     
    #9 JC91006, Jun 17, 2014
    Last edited: Jun 17, 2014
  10. SteveWlf

    SteveWlf Old-on-Hold

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    Well I won the bidding and came out with what it looks like is a good deal. I can't find anything wrong with this car. It was a OR. state agency vehicle and primarily maintained by the state motor pool shops. 11 pages of service records in detail. They spent $3800 in parts and $7600 in labor (@$90/hr) in 10 years. Mostly it was oil/filter, wipers (std PM stuff). Replaced the 12v battery twice (last time 2 mo. ago), tires 3 times.
    I towed it home, for lack of a 2nd driver and as soon as I got it off the dolly, I took it for a test drive and couldn't find any problems with its handling, braking, charging, re-gen. This car is spotless and appears to be OK to send on to my son and his family.

    However, my initial concern was two comments in the auction listing. "Agency report that vehicle has an exhaust leak & possible transmission problem. Beyond that , a mention of a "burning odor"".
    The service records show an exhaust inspection in Feb. but no comments on anything found or repaired (done outside the service facility).
    The possible transmission problem isn't mentioned in the service records but in combination the "burning odor" I was thinking these two might be related. I searched the service records and had the local dealer search Tech Steam for any thing that might have been addressed with the OR dealer that had done previous recall work for them. Nothing shows up and I can't find any thing indicating that the transmission oil has ever been changed in 153k miles. In fact only the oil and filters have been changed in its service life.

    The first thought was to change the transmission oil. however, I would loose a good opportunity to have an oil analysis done "Wouldn't You Think!". This would show any ware or MG1 or MG2 over heating or winding burn out. Even evidence of moisture in the transmission.
    I called two dealers and ask about this and neither had heard of any instance where the took and submitted oil samples for analyse. I'm Shaking my Head!! One of the best preventive maintenance and trouble shooting tool a fleet mechanic or even private owner could have. However, once that oil is changed, you loose the trace evidence of what is going on.
    I have seen mention of oil analyse on here before and wonder how you get this done if the dealer isn't informed of the process??

    Any comment on this would be appreciated.

    Steve
     
    #10 SteveWlf, Jun 20, 2014
    Last edited: Jun 20, 2014
  11. usnavystgc

    usnavystgc Die Hard DIYer and Ebike enthusiast.

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    I would just change it. If its running/driving fine now, don't roll the dice. 153k is a lot of miles on that fluid and the tranny turns every time the wheels turn so all miles are wear miles. What is the benefit of oil analysis for you? It will not change how long the tranny will last or the condition it is currently in???
     
  12. SteveWlf

    SteveWlf Old-on-Hold

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    With the possibility of MG1 or MG2 (more common) partially burning out, there would be traces of this in the sampled oil. The car could be still driving with reduced or rough performance and continue until total failure before throwing a code/MIL. If I find out now, before sending it off to Calif. with my son and his family, I can address it here from my own collection of Prius trannys, etc..

    This is not to say, I'm looking forward to changing a transmission. No Way!

    Steve
     
  13. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    I just went to see a vehicle with similar problems of what you're describing. It has a burning smell when you first start the engine. The trans axle is bad and has a catalytic converter problem

    SM-N900P ?
     
  14. usnavystgc

    usnavystgc Die Hard DIYer and Ebike enthusiast.

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  15. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    More commonly a burning smell comes from a faulty inverter coolant pump. This in turn gives rise to transmission shut down problems once the inverter and transmission overheat.

    John (Britprius)
     
  16. usnavystgc

    usnavystgc Die Hard DIYer and Ebike enthusiast.

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    Even knowing everything I know now and given the situation, are you going to replace a tranny that's operating properly regardless of the test results??? I know I'm not. If it works now, I'm not touching it. lol