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Better while cold??

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by OldMage, Apr 6, 2009.

  1. OldMage

    OldMage RWD Celica freak, Prius "collector"

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    Ok, I'm fairly new to all things Prius, but not a newb to cars. And my in-laws have an '06 (?) Package 2.

    Anyway, after the 1st tank of fuel, I got ~43mpg. I was stoked. I figured I'd learn how to drive 'better' and that would improve.

    My wife took off w/ my car, and drove to Bakersfield, CA to visit her father in the hospital. She knows/cares NOTHING about cars, and drove it like she drives most anything. When she got home, it still said ~43mpg on the display (YAY!). I figured if even SHE can get 43mpg, I could get better (I always get better MPGs in our minivan than she does).

    Then on my work commute, I started noticing the mileage going down... I'm down to ~41.7 most of the time now (I have not reset the overall economy counter). It feels like it's dragging a flat tire or a stuck brake much of the time (the brakes are COLD when I stop & check, the tire pressures are ~40f/38r). I've commented/asked about how "aggresively" the Gen1's typically coast/regen. I have to keep my foot on the accelerator to maintain speed down a 5% grade!!

    It seems to struggle to maintain speed up grades also. My commute is ~30 miles along a winding/hilly 2-lane highway. On level ground, the instant MPG graph usually hovers around 25.

    I do notice that while it's still cold (blue temp indicator ON) I have impressive pick-up & response, less significant regen (tho I'm typically driving in-town, <40mph), and the instant MPG graph will stay just under 50 most of the time on level ground, tho I've caught it staying near 75 sometimes.

    I have a basic OBD-II code scanner, no codes found, even "pending".

    What kind of geeky diag modes can I get into with an '03? How deep can I dig w/out buying one of the other scan tools? I've heard some vehicle habits can be "customized" by the dealer techs, should I see about having mine "reset"?.

    Suggestions?? Help!
     
  2. JimN

    JimN Let the games begin!

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    Which car is getting 43mpg? If it is the 2003 does the battery's state of charge fluctuate rapidly?

    If it is the 2006 best fuel economy occurs when coolant temp is over 170F as reported by my ScanGuage. For me the 1st 5 minutes is ~25mpg and the 2nd 5 minutes is ~50mpg. It takes about 15 miles (not sure how long) for me to recover what I lose at the start of the trip.
     
  3. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    Let's start with the standard checklist:

    • engine oil level - between the marks. If over "F", drain.
    • engine oil quality - in the winter, 0W30 or 0W20 works
    • wheel alignment - any metrics? Tire wear, even?
    • tire pressure - as close to maximum sidewall as comfortable, +2 psi front.
    • transaxle oil - has it been changed? I'm running Type WS (current generation oil) and it seems to be working fine. Even new Type T-IV is better than worn out, original oil.
    • engine air filter - an annual change
    The NHW11 (2001-03) Prius has a lot of efficiency challenges at temperatures under 60F. There are several things that can help:

    • block heater - a half hour provides 25C boost, an hour comes closer to 30C and can save about a minute of warm-up
    • neighborhood start - using the neighborhood streets, do the first 1-1.5 miles at 25 mph to let the engine warm up before putting a load on the engine.
    • urban cruise - try to stay away from 42 mph, 0-38 mph and 45-65 mph works best as repeated transitions through 42 mph seems to lead to poorer performance.
    • maximum cruise control - where travel is relatively flat, cruise control avoids 'nervous foot' that can run the engine up to inefficient RPM ranges. If you have a scanner that reports engine RPM, I try to keep it under 2,600 rpm in cruise and within reason, avoid engine rpms above 3,200 rpm.
    • modest end - within 1-2 miles of trip end, try to run as close to 30 mph as practical so the battery can provide excellent ending MPG
    • hill climb - absolutely avoid accelerating up a hill and try to climb at 55 mph if practical. Counter intuitive, a constant speed of 75-80 in a climb of a relatively small hill, ~500 ft., also works by using traction battery energy BUT this is not recommended and never accelerate up a hill to this speed as you'll use all of the traction battery energy accelerating and there won't be any for cruising up the hill.
    I'm curious, how many miles on the 03 Prius? How long have you had it?

    I'd also recommend recording your mileage to have a record and track mileage as a function of temperature and other variables. I started with the GreenHybrid.com mileage database but it has been replaced by MyHybridCar.com. There are others including the EPA http://www.fueleconomy.gov/ site. Regardless of how mileage is tracked, one of my earliest efforts was to plot MPH vs MPG:
    [​IMG]
    It takes time, a couple of months, to build up a mileage record but it provides the facts and data to understand how our vehicles perform. With more sophisticated instrumentation, you can plot engine brake specific fuel consumption:
    [​IMG]
    Of course this may be a little more detail than you were expecting.

    Over a two month interval, I've found achieving the original EPA numbers, 45 Hwy and 52 City, was fairly easy. But it took careful study and route planning to achieve my current 52.2 MPG. Still, I live in Huntsville AL and have the advantage of relatively flat terrain but careful route planning pays dividends:
    [​IMG]

    GOOD LUCK!
    Bob Wilson
     
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  4. OldMage

    OldMage RWD Celica freak, Prius "collector"

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    JimN - it's my '03 that was getting 43mpg, it's been going down from there. I mentioned my in-law's Pkg2 just to indicate I'm not totally green to Prius or hybrids.

    Bob - Umm... WOW :eek: Lessee...
    • Engine oil level: Honestly haven't checked yet.
    • Engine oil type: Unknown, figured I'd change it soon since that's a safe thing to do w/ a "new" car.
    • Wheel alignment: Unknown, fronts are worn a bit on the outside shoulders, but not feathered or cupped. I figured maybe it'd just been driven hard because I bought from a shop that bought it as a theft recovery.
    • Tire pressure: A bit lower than max, but I think 40/38.
    • Transaxle oil: Haven't changed it, type & condition unknown. Likely OEM still.
    • Engine air filter: slightly dirty, age unknown. Hopefully not original, but could've been.
    As for add-ons & habits...
    • Block heater: May consider it, but may not bother unless it'll make more than a fraction of a MPG difference.
    • Neighborhood start: already part of my commute. I have to drive a couple miles in-town (no more than 35mph) to get to the highway.
    • Cruise Control: Don't have it, working to find the parts used. Got a great price on new package from my local dealership (know the parts mgr).
    • "Modest end": Pretty much built into my commute also. I work at a dam, and try hard to spend the last mile or so EV only, but it pretty consistently kicks the engine on to climb a small hill (no way around it).
    • Hill climb: hmm, well... I have a rather hilly & winding ~30 mile commute. I try to keep my speed fairly consistent, posted speeds are 50-55. I'm usually running ~60, and can take most of the corners w/out slowing too much.
    I bought it on March 14th w/ just over 12k miles, it's got ~15300 now. A week after I got it, my wife & her sister took off to Bakersfield, CA to see their father in the hospital (~900mi each way, mountain passes included). I got it back w/ ~14720 on it.
     
  5. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    Sounds like it is due for a two-fer. Just use 3 quarts of an affordable, quality motor oil and new filter. You'll probably need a really serious oil filter wrench. IMHO, go with cheap, quality oil on this change. If the oil looks as bad as I think it will look, threat this first change as a flush. Then in another month or so, do it again with a quality oil and filter. Your engine will thank you for it.
    When you change the transaxle oil, have a new gasket and drop the pan. Also, have a small, clean, dry water bottle to take a sample. If the oil looks like some of the stuff we've seen in the past, it can be pretty ugly. If you have a sample container, you have the option of getting it tested. If not ...
    Huh? Did the thieves break it? Any photos?

    The early 2001 came without a cruise control but the actual cruise control circuit is just a resistor network and switches connected to a single wire into the hybrid ECU. If you have an experimenter's mind, there are some clever approaches you might consider. Over in the YahooGroup "Prius Technical Stuff," you'll find some pretty skilled Prius hackers who can offer some help and insights.
    Interesting! A 2003 with 12k miles in 2009. That was quite a score.

    Seriously, the cruise control would be a fun project and we can also go over how to add basic instrumentation. A tachometer is one of the single best mileage instruments around and if integrated with a smart cruise control, you'll have a real honey. Then if we add a thermistor hack, you'll be set.

    I didn't mention it before but you may also want to change the interior air filter. They can get a little 'funky.'

    Chat at you later,
    Bob Wilson
     
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  6. OldMage

    OldMage RWD Celica freak, Prius "collector"

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    Not sure when, but will do soon. This weekend's already blown.
    Tested, by whom, and for how much $? I'll probably just change it & call that good. Maybe do it like a "flush" just to be safe.
    Nope, not broken, just somehow didn't get Cruise Control. I test drove a 2001 that had the CC stalk, but it didn't work. The lady selling it tried to say she thought they didn't have CC (why the he11 would they put the controls there then??)
    I guess I'd better get hooked up w/ those guys too then! I've been wanting hacker/tweaker tidbits. There's GOT to be more 'easter eggs' and configurable options than just adding key-fobs!!
    I thought so, even as a 'theft recovery'. I've got to call the insurance agency that paid out on it, and see if they'll give me a letter of reversal so it doesn't keep a salvage title.
    Yeah, a tach could be nice, tho the engine only runs at something like 3 speeds, right?
    Thanks, Bob! I did send you a PM about some of your mods, have you had a chance to read that? Any details online here or on the Yahoo Group?
     
  7. OldMage

    OldMage RWD Celica freak, Prius "collector"

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    Ok, still no pics of my missing CC, but it really never got it. I had my buddy @ the dealership run the VIN.

    The "thermister hack" sounds interesting, but it also sounds like it's not really worked out very well. Most methods seem to trade one problem for another.

    I was watching my 'energy' screen a bit more today. I ususally leave it on the 'consumption' screen so I can monitor if I'm pushing too hard on the pedal... Well, my Pri seems totally preoccupied with charging the battery. I mean like ALL the time. I rarely seem to get into "full hybrid" mode where the assist will fluctuate back & forth. I think this is where my constant sense of dragging an anchor comes from. And the incredible coast-down nearly all the time. It really IS doing charge/regen all the time!!

    So, what does this mean? Crapped traction battery assembly? I have NO idea how my wife drove it when she went to California. I just know she commented about it being fairly "gutless" and can imagine her standing on WOT climbing the mountain passes. What kind of damage can be done if she did keep driving like that and the 'turtle' light was on? She'd never have noticed anyway, so there's no point in asking her.

    I think it pulls along pretty good. I out-pulled a Versa over & over today. It just seems to have no 'stamina'. The battery level doesn't drop as you're watching, but a hard pull to freeway speed seems to zap it pretty good (short on-ramps in the Columbia Gorge where I work). And I only get a couple miles of EV (at the end of my ~30mi commute) before the engine kicks on again. And it won't always pull away on EV unless I'm VERY ginger w/ the throttle.

    What checks can I do myself w/out having a Scantool? Oh, is service called for by TSB free? Or is it just "very strongly recommended" but owner-paid? Maybe if none of the TSBs have been done, I can get the traction battery & battery ECU replaced??

    I really want to stop feeling frustrated with my Prius...
     
  8. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    No problem on the thermistor hack as you're seeing my engineering notes ... all of the details.
    How does it compare to driving in "B"?
    The car will protect itself. The real challenge is trying accelerate while climbing will be 'disappointing.' Also, it seems to climb best as far a fuel economy and efficiency, at 55-60 mph. Over 60 mph, it has to draw on the battery that is a limited resource.
    That sounds about right.
    You'll have to ask. My car is well past any warranty service but the traction battery and inverter were under an 8 yr / 100,000 mile warranty. You may be OK on the battery work.

    GOOD LUCK!
    Bob Wilson
     
  9. OldMage

    OldMage RWD Celica freak, Prius "collector"

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    So... is there a "worked out" version?

    Actually, "B" seems to pull down a little harder, and the last couple times I've used it, I've actually heard the engine race against the load. I try not to drive in "B" because I don't have Cruise Control, and the car feels like it's dragging a dead weight enough anyway.

    Yeah, it's not an uphill sprinter, but it *can* gain speed a little at a time. Not a great idea to try to speed up while climbing. Hard not to sometimes tho, since many passing lanes are set up on hills where big trucks just can't maintain their speed.

    Ok, so I'm expecting too much?? What's it gonna take to make the 'EV' more aggressive and/or longer-lasting?
    Ok, I'll ask. I've got a good 'in' w/ the Parts Mgr. I think he could help me with costs etc if I do have to pay for anything.

    I do feel like I miss throttle-response compared to my 'polluter cars'. I'm an enthusiast at heart, and with my twisty commute, I miss pulling hard out of the corners. There always seems to be a lag as the THS decides what to do with what I'm trying to do... I love the handling my Pri seems capable of, but that's only part of the drive.

    This morning I forgot my IDs for work. I didn't discover this until I was already pulling off the highway... I drove home frustrated & rather aggressively. Odd thing is, I gained back a tenth on my overall mileage and had more regen diamonds! Must've been all the white-knuckle cornering and on/off throttle.
     
  10. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    Thermistor hack

    To the best of my knowledge, only three, NHW11 owners ever worked on their individual thermistor hacks:
    • Clive (UK) - who originally proposed the idea using a resistor network, possibly a diode. I saw one posting this winter about it but no follow-up.
    • Cor (now in India) - who reported building a 'transistorized' version but subsequently sold his NHW11 Prius and now is in India.
    • Wilson (me) - who experimented first with a potentiometer; potentiometer and diode; and finally built the MSP430 version.
    The 54,000 NHW11s benefit from the thermistor hack saving 3-6 minutes before going into hybrid mode. The ~500,000 NHW20 Prius use a thermos bottle and improved control laws that limit the utility from the thermistor hack. The new ZV30 uses an exhaust heat recovery system, which eliminates just about any need for a thermistor hack.

    Another approach is to get a block heater installed. This can save about 2 minutes of warm-up but at 400 W., it should be plugged in about an hour before leaving ... 30 minutes is OK too. Many folks use a timer to turn it on early in the morning. These run about $50.

    In the winter, I also use a radiator block, a 'water noodle' that is split and held in place with two bungie cords. It is the difference between getting 50 MPG down to 40F or only 45 MPG. It cost about $10.

    If you are interested in a thermistor hack, we can work out what approach works best for you. There is not enough demand to justify 'mass production.' If you want one, I can build out another microprocessor version, test it and send it out, say $100.

    NHW11 DRIVING STYLE

    At 13 seconds to reach 60 mph, it is not a 'road rally' car. But if you can "zone out" while driving, it can be fuel efficient. The rules of thumb I follow:
    • 1-2 miles - 25 mph to let the engine warm-up to hybrid temperatures, use a 'water noodle' to block the bumper air intake at temperatures under 70F.
    • Steady speed, 0-38 mph, or 45-65 mph. When climbing, try to use 55 mph if safe or use a truck as a pacing vehicle. A heavily loaded, moving van drives nearly the perfect cross country speed ranges ... DO NOT TAILGATE ... just follow their driving style.
    • Last 1-2 miles, use 30-35 mph to maximize EV mode.
    But I have always been a 'Zen' driver who prefers to keep to the speed limit and drive in a calm state of mind. If you prefer to minimize driving time, you'll get there but often be frustrated by the NHW11. It won't perform quickly but it will burn up more gas.

    However, with good tires and high inflation pressure, it will take a curve faster than about 80% of most vehicles. Experiment carefully but when I switch to my wife's Echo, I have to remind myself that it can not take turns like I do in my NHW11 Prius.

    GOOD LUCK!

    Bob Wilson
     
  11. don m

    don m Junior Member

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    I am interested in thermistor hack