1. Attachments are working again! Check out this thread for more details and to report any other bugs.

Newbie in Need! (Already used "search," don't worry)

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by andrewedwards89, Feb 8, 2015.

  1. andrewedwards89

    andrewedwards89 New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2015
    2
    0
    0
    Vehicle:
    2003 Prius
    Hello all! Thanks for the add!

    My name's Andrew. My girlfriend Brenna and I just recently acquired a 2003 Prius with a boatload of miles on it and a bad traction battery. We've already cleaned all the connections and put 38 known-t0-be-good cells in it, paired them and put them in an order that would be compliant with the flow of heat through the battery, etc... Anyway we went to see if it would go into "ready" mode after all our hard work (the battery, brakes, oil change, plugs, filters, a good cleaning, etc) and much to our dismay, it didn't want to turn on. Instead, it gave us the dreaded triangle with the "!" and the turtle, and the "Problem" thing. I checked the codes and it gave us a "voltage detect line snapped" one and a "unusually different voltages" code. I knew that the voltage code one would happen because the voltages of the modules ranged from 7.4 to 7.9 volts DC. This is when I noticed the burned-t0-a-crisp chunk of wires going to the battery ECU thing in the harness that has all the voltage detection wires in it.

    My question is this: Since the burned part is close to the connector, is there any place from which I could just buy the connector with "pigtails" on it already? Or is my only option to buy the connector, wires, bus bars, and plastic holders all in one big expensive set? I have no qualms about soldering and taking the battery apart again. I followed all the instructions I could put together from the internet and it worked out very well. I just want to not have to spend a lot more money than we already have.

    Cheers!

    Andrew
     
  2. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2008
    23,332
    15,111
    0
    Location:
    Indiana, USA
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    IV
    Hi Andrew,

    Not to worry, there's no big expensive set involved. You can get by with just the front bus wire assembly 8216547030, about $110 at Village Toyota, or for only about $5 more you can get the full replacement parts kit as used in the official battery rebuild campaign, 0400335147, $115 at Metro Toyota, which gives you all the wiring, bus components, protectors, resin end sheets, etc., to make a battery overhaul complete.

    I'd strongly recommend against doing anything besides ordering the correct harness. In general it's great that you don't have qualms about soldering, but in this specific case you really ought to. That bunch of skinny wires with thin (but carefully chosen) insulation are bundled very close to each other, with a potential difference that can exceed 300 volts between some of them, and no provision for limiting current. (One of my earliest posts on PriusChat was before I had ever seen this harness in person and I just assumed that they would design it with integral limiting resistors out at the battery terminal ends, but it turns out they didn't!) Hence the one fire you can see you've already had.

    The fire seemed to stay contained in the battery enclosure that time, and it sounds like nobody was hurt. But trying to rebuild that harness using anything other than the original materials and construction could be like telling the school bully the first time he hit you didn't hurt bad enough.

    -Chap
     
    #2 ChapmanF, Feb 8, 2015
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2015
    Mr Micawber, bwilson4web and ftl like this.
  3. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2008
    23,332
    15,111
    0
    Location:
    Indiana, USA
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    IV
    It sounds like you might be describing the second case I've ever heard of where the sense wire harness caught fire near the ECU.

    This is starting to make me curious.

    You might follow that thread for a sense of some of the complications that cropped up in that repair. It seemed that smoke from a fire incident may coat all of the modules and connections, producing unintended ground paths and a tendency for the modules to self-discharge.

    -Chap
     
  4. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2008
    23,332
    15,111
    0
    Location:
    Indiana, USA
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    IV
    Also, with that incident so close to the ECU, the ECU itself (connector and circuit board) are probably at least coated with carbon, if not actually melted or burned, in exactly the last place you'd want that kind of damage, around the sense line input / high voltage isolation section of that board. If you don't just replace it with a known good ECU, I'd certainly recommend a very careful inside cleaning and inspection of the one you've got.

    -Chap
     
  5. Avi's Advanced Automotive

    Avi's Advanced Automotive Independent hybrid repair shop

    Joined:
    Jun 28, 2012
    775
    360
    0
    Location:
    Los Angeles, CA
    Vehicle:
    2005 Prius
    Model:
    Three
    Is there any chance we could see some pictures of the damage?

    Avi
     
  6. andrewedwards89

    andrewedwards89 New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2015
    2
    0
    0
    Vehicle:
    2003 Prius
    Hi guys, thanks for the reply! ChapmanF, I've very carefully taken apart the ECU and checked for evidence of burning/melting and carbon, but luckily the heat stayed in the wiring. Lucky shot there! Also I'll be looking into just buying the whole wire/harness assembly, my lady and I have already sourced one (Funny enough, from the same guy who sold us the modules!). Avi's Advanced Automotive, I'll try and snap a few if I remember to!

    Is this localized burning of wires really that rare of an occurrence? Seems like it'd happen more often, given the voltages and gauge of wire. But, I'm here to learn, so hey! I'll take it as a learning experience.

    Again thanks for the help all! Looking forward to getting her Prius back on the road, and coming back here to share and gain insight (not Honda insight ;) )
     
  7. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2005
    27,168
    15,410
    0
    Location:
    Huntsville AL
    Vehicle:
    2018 Tesla Model 3
    Model:
    Prime Plus
    Pictures!

    There is a minimum posting number needed, 5?, but we sure would like to see what you've found.

    Bob Wilson
     
  8. valde3

    valde3 Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jun 28, 2014
    2,002
    745
    0
    Location:
    Finland
    Vehicle:
    2004 Prius
    Voltage doesn’t cause wires to burn. Current does cause wires to burn but those wires have basically zero current in them unless something rubs through wiring (or similar).
     
  9. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2008
    23,332
    15,111
    0
    Location:
    Indiana, USA
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    IV
    The wire gauge by itself isn't a problem because, as valde3 points out, in normal operation those wires carry so close to zero current it's not worth talking about. In a fault situation that puts current through them, yes, the light-gauge wires will heat faster than heavier ones would ... but I would expect arcing right at the fault location to be a much bigger source of heat, at least at first. Damage due to ohmic heating of the wires would probably be spread all along them, but the photo in lovemy02prius's case seemed to show damage very focused near the connector to the ECU.

    The voltage doesn't really put any constraints on the wire gauge, but it does put demands on the insulation type and thickness. The insulation on those wires is a lot thinner than the plain PVC insulation on normal 12 volt auto wire, but Toyota obviously spec'd an insulation type that can handle the voltage at their design thickness. To be sure, they didn't drastically overengineer this harness, or they'd have done the belt-and-suspenders thing I assumed they would do, and formed integral, say, 10 MΩ resistances into it right at the terminals that attach to the modules, and then any harness damage would give wacky block voltage readings and some DTCs but no smoke. But I don't think I've seen them underengineer stuff either. I'm sure they put plenty of attention into approving their insulation choice and construction and quality control, and honestly this is only the second post I've seen on PriusChat with an issue like this. They certainly would not build the harness in a way they expected to fail.

    Most likely, something had to first create an insulation flaw near that connector. Maybe an unlucky beetle crawling over that connector, then some of the insulation getting sprayed off by superheated beetle cytoplasm? Whatever it was, as soon as anything starts there, it's no surprise what happens next. The mystery is just how it starts.

    In your case, you mention first noticing the damage the second time you were in the battery, after doing some earlier work and putting it back in the car. You haven't said whether you thought the damage could have been there already, but I'm guessing if you were doing such close work as cleaning all the terminals, you would have noticed it. So it seems possible the failure happened after your first reassembly.

    In lovemy02prius's case, there had also been some work done on the battery. We might not know exactly what because she bought the car used, but the battery innards were not all original so someone had clearly been in there.

    I wonder whether there might be handling precautions we need to learn for working around that harness. Avoid rough handling? Gloves to avoid salt sweat tracks on it? Is it possible that, for safety's sake, that's just a harness that ought to be replaced as a matter of course when overhauling an old battery?

    Looking forward to the pics of yours....

    -Chap
     
    Mr Micawber likes this.
  10. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2005
    27,168
    15,410
    0
    Location:
    Huntsville AL
    Vehicle:
    2018 Tesla Model 3
    Model:
    Prime Plus
    I understand the ECU uses a sampling cap that is then switched to the ADC. I am going over my mind what sort of short might lead to sense wire overload.

    If the sense wires were on either side of the safety jumper and the car off, critter bodies could do it to the case. I don't see electrolyte trace leaks with enough current as it would hydrolize and or steam off the water.

    Still, check the air ducts for spider webs.

    Also blow off any dust in the electronics area in case it is conductive.

    Bob Wilson
     
  11. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2008
    23,332
    15,111
    0
    Location:
    Indiana, USA
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    IV