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Please help c1356 abs problem 04 prius

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Josorio827, Jun 18, 2015.

  1. Josorio827

    Josorio827 New Member

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    hello I'm new here. Although I am a forum junkie for my other vehicles.

    I'm new to the Prius world.
    3 months ago I purchased this Prius to offset the 10mpg my Range Rover sport gets me. So far it's been one of the best vehicles I've ever owned but now I have a problem.

    Abs and brake light came on while driving. The brake pedal got rock hard and it was very difficult to stop. I almost hit the car in front of me. I pulled an abs code and it was c1356.

    So far I have replaced the abs pump which is on the driver side. Very difficult to get to. I have an ase technician that's a friend of mine that did the work for me. Bled the entire system, car drove fine for 4 miles then at an instant the pedal got hard again and the lights came on.

    Next I replaced the unit on the passenger side which I was told is called the abs accumulator. Much easier job. Same thing... Car drove for a few miles and the problem came back. Both times the system was bled.

    I'm out of ideas and have no clue where to go next. I'm not a mechanic but any info is helpful and I can relate to my friend. Thanks Joseph
     
  2. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    You haven't mentioned this, is it the same trouble code that you read again each time the lights come on and the pedal gets hard?

    I don't have the volume 1 service manual handy for your Prius year. If you've glanced at it on techinfo.toyota.com, could you give a quick summary of what things it suggests that you check, in the workup pages for the code(s) you're seeing? Sometimes thinking out loud about which ones you've already covered can be helpful, and the rest of us might notice things.

    -Chap
     
  3. Josorio827

    Josorio827 New Member

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    Yes same trouble code every time. I'll take a look at that techinfo and check back shortly. Thanks for the response.
     
  4. valde3

    valde3 Senior Member

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    What sub code did you get? It can be 16, 17, 18, or 19. All of those list: Brake actuator assy, Skid control ECU, or Harness and connector, as a culprit. But with sub code you might be able to pinpoint the problem. You should read the codes with Techstream, to know the sub code. Mini VCI is cheap but requires XP laptop.

    Or if you just want to continue replacing parts you should test to replace the skid control ecu. And look at the wiring before and while doing it.

    If that’s the only fault code you have and you replaced the brake actuator assy, it can only be the skid control ecu or wiring between it and brake actuator assy. Culprit wires are only two and with the sub code you could know what to measure.
     
    #4 valde3, Jun 19, 2015
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2015
  5. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    I do not understand what parts you have replaced. Can you take photos of the removed parts and post?

    The brake actuator is the part which logically should have been replaced and it is mounted on the firewall, it is necessary to remove the windshield wiper motor and the sheet metal cowl tray running across the rear of the engine compartment for access. The part is squarish in appearance, has an electric pump mounted to it to create hydraulic pressure, and contains numerous ports for many brake hydraulic lines to be attached.

    Yes. The problem is with the SLRFR circuit. There are two wires completing that circuit between the skid control ECU and the brake actuator assembly.

    I suggest that the electrical wiring diagram from techinfo would allow the OP to determine which pins on the brake actuator and the skid control ECU relate to the SLRFR circuit, then the voltage on the two pins can be measured as well as continuity of the wiring harness between the actuator and the ECU. It is also possible to measure the resistance of the solenoid in question within the brake actuator.
     
  6. Josorio827

    Josorio827 New Member

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    Ok so I started the car this morning and the problem was gone once again. Drove 3 miles and the lights came on with the solid hard brake pedal. Thanks for the replys. I will relate all of the info you guys have given me to my mechanic so he can look up the wiring.