key talk

The keys for 2001-2003 Priuses are "chip" keys, whether Master or Valet.

These keys are nominally "10 position" keys, but these keys really have 12 positions.

Starting at the "bow" end (where the key ring attaches), the first 10 positions are cut for the vehicle, and the last two positions are cut for either the Master or the Valet function, but other than the two final positions, a Master and a Valet key are identical.

And, both the Master and the Valet have a "chip".

The difference, then, is the Valet key is cut deeper (higher code) so that it may not be modified so as to be used as a Master (which has a lower code). The reverse is true, however: a Master may be converted to be a Valet.

A competent automotive locksmith should be able to make a "chip" key from your Valet key, and should he be really smart, he can modify the final two positions to make these into a Master key. He would do this by duplicating only the first ten positions using his machine, and then he would manually cut the final two positions, possibly by using an "exemplar" Master key. Or, should he have a set of "depth keys", he can cut positions 11 and 12 "by code".

FWIW, the keys used on 2001-2003 Priuses are the very same mechanical keys used on 2014 Prius c Ones, IOW ILCo X217/TR47, for a non-"chip" key.

Some additional info which may be of use: the only time you need a "chip" key is to operate the ignition. For all other purposes, a non-"chip" key, made on an ILCo blank from the ignition key, may be used to enter the vehicle (but not to start the hybrid system), and it may be used to access the trunk.

Should you use a purely mechanical key to try and start the vehicle, you will get a "check engine" warning light, and the hybrid system will be immobilized.

Indeed, after attempting to start a Prius using a purely mechanical key, you may get several "check engine" warnings, even with a "chip" key, until the warning is cleared.

But, eventually, the immobilization will be cleared and the "chip" key will again work.

ACE Hardware stores can duplicate the primitive "chip", but their key cutting machines are very often off-specification.

Probably best to take this work to a professional locksmith and pay the extra bucks and get a key which actually works.

To conclude: the 2001-2003 Prius uses a combination of a mechanical key and a "chip" key. The mechanical portion must be cut right for the steering wheel lockout to release, and the "chip" portion must be duplicated right for the hybrid system immobilizer to release the vehicle to your control.



The Master and Valet keys have the same "chip" coding, but the Valet key is cut deeper (higher code) in the "phantom" 11th and 12th positions (the positions farthest from the "bow").

Nominally, these keys are all "10 position", with positions 1 through 10 being associated with the vehicle, and are unique to that vehicle, but with positions 11 and 12 being associated with the Master and Valet functions, such that a Valet key may not be recut to be a Master key, but a Master key may be recut to be a Valet key.

Note: the keyless entry fob is FCC ID HYQ12BAN, and is made by Denso, an affiliate of Toyota.

 

This is not unlike the method which is employed by many so-called "remote start" systems, wherein a "chip key" is semi-permanently mounted underneath the dash, within the body of the remote start unit, or its so-called "bypass accessory", thereby allowing the remote start fob to control the car from a distance.

The purely mechanical key would be made on an ILCo X217/TR47 blank, yet every one of these could control the car, as described below, without the need for a "chip key".

I would suggest under this scenario that the mechanical keys be made from a Master key, two, say, and from the Valet key, one, say.

This approach is especially helpful if, as in my case, one bought a Gen 1 used, and with only one "chip key", as the sole "chip key" would always be safely housed within the steering column, out of harm's way.


A brand-new Gen 1 car comes with three combination mechanical-electronic keys (here, I will ignore the "remote keyless entry" fobs, which are yet another complication).

The mechanical portion of a key may be Master (opens everything) or Valet (opens everything except the trunk).

The electronic portion of a key may be Master (can be utilized to "register" additional keys) or Sub-master (cannot be used to "register" additional keys).

Although there are indeed four possible combinations (Master (electronic)/Master (mechanical), Master (e)/Valet (m), Sub-master (e)/Master (m) and Sub-master (e)/Valet (m)), only Master (electronic)/Master (mechanical) (two keys) and Sub-master (electronic)/Valet (mechanical) (one key) are shipped with a new car.

The Master (electronic)/Master (mechanical) keys are black with a Toyota logo. The Sub-master (electronic)/Valet (mechanical) key is gray with a Toyota logo. Both are obviously "chip keys", as the protective systems within a 2001 through 2003 Prius utilizes a combination of mechanical locking (doors and steering wheel) and electronic locking (hybrid system immobilizer).

Either key may be used with the "immobilizer trick" (removing the immobilizer sensing ring from the steering wheel lock and placing a "chip key" within it and then duct-taping it elsewhere inside the steering wheel, thereby allowing purely mechanical keys to operate all aspects of the vehicle).

The mechanical portion of a Valet key may be converted into a mechanical Master key by the simple expedient of not duplicating the two "phantom" positions (11 and 12), on these otherwise "10 position" keys. This requires a sharp eye, or a "cut by code" method.

The mechanical portion of a Master key may be converted into a mechanical Valet key by the not-so-simple expedient of duplicating the two "phantom" positions (11 and 12), on these otherwise "10 position" keys and then filing the last two, "phantom" positions to "depth code 3". This also requires a sharp eye, or a "cut by code" method.

For purely reference purposes, Toyota keys have four "depth codes": 1, 2, 3 and 4, with 1 representing no cutting at all, and 4 representing cutting to the maximum recognizable depth, and depths 2 and 3 being intermediate between these two extremes.



Duplicate the Valet key ("chip" portion, only), and cut off and discard the mechanical portion of that duplicate.

Then, remove the immobilizer ring from the steering column and duct tape the cut-off Valet key duplicate right to the ring, but keep the ring out of sight, within the steering column.

Next, duplicate the Valet key (mechanical portion, only) onto an ILCo X217/TR47 blank (all twelve positions), thereby giving you a true Valet key (but without the "chip").

Finally, duplicate the Valet key (mechanical portion, only) onto two ILCo X217/TR47 blanks (first ten positions, only), thereby giving you two true Master keys (but without the "chips").

The professional locksmith where I get most of my security work done uses an ILCo "chip" key which comes in two parts: the mechanical part and the transponder part. Apparently, some Toyota models require one type of transponder, and anther Toyota model requires another type of transponder, yet the mechanical portion is the same for both.

After duplication, the two halves are pressed together and then the result is presented to the customer.

It is possible to request just the transponder to be duplicated, thereby eliminating the mechanical part, and thereby simplifying, somewhat, the implementation of the "immobilizer trick".

It is indeed possible, after full duplication, to separate the transponder portion from the mechanical portion, using a special tool.

I drove my 2001 Prius to the locksmith to facilitate testing.

His price for duplicating "chip" keys was $59.95, which was actually less than ACE Hardware!

I was not disappointed.

 

I used the service which I had immediately available to me.

I have confirmed that my 2001 will always operate using the ILCo X217/TR47 duplicate of the Master (or, for that matter, the Valet) provided the transponder key (factory original or locksmith-made) is on the same key ring as the mechanical key being employed to start and operate the car.

Indeed, it was my intention to take the "snap-together" master key and separate these into the two components, and then to bury the transponder portion within the 2001's steering column, and then to use purely mechanical keys (ILCo X217/TR47) for all day-to day operations.

Knowing the "channel" which is buried within a gen-u-wine Toyota key has an accessible transponder chip, by simply removing the chip and gluing it near the immobilizer ring, is also an option. The Toyota key may, thereafter, be glued back together, thereby presenting a good cosmetic result.