Gen II Prius Individual Battery Module Replacement

Steve
I got all the modules moved and pre-charged, back in car, initial charge, force max charge, drove it to work today, good so far. I did not have dash display but realized I had left the VCI plugged in to obd port, so I stopped powered off unplugged it, and display worked normal thankfully. I will fill up and drive it for a while. I need to learn how to use the VCI. I really appreciate all the help on here especially from you Steve... Thank you!

CJ

 

Glad to hear it. You're very welcome.

Curious about the VCI. I've drove around logging data with it with no issues.

 

Got the VCI going. I didn't have it hooked to a laptop this morning, guess that's why it caused the display problem or not. Not sure what I'm looking for specifically but here is some screen shots.
CJ

 

Use the button at the bottom that looks like a book with two red arrows on it. That enables you to specify a reduced data set.

engine revolution
Battery State of charge
Batt Pack Current Val
Inhaling Air Temp
Auxiliary Battery vol
Temp of Batt TB1, 2 and 3
Batt Block Min Vol
Min att Block no
Batt Block Max Vol
Max att Block no
All Block Vol V01-V14

You will capture and manipulate less data, which is a little more manageable as it fits on one screen and will sample about every 0.4 seconds.

Your min-max is only 0.06V and all your IR are .019 - very good start.

You can run the force-charge/discharge test I outline in the link in my thread recording it with the button with the red dot at the lower right.

Save it to the toyota format and then export it as a CSV. Zip the CSV and post.

Steve

 

"You can run the force-charge/discharge test I outline in the link in my thread recording it with the button with the red dot at the lower right."

Steve
Were you talking about force to max charge by setting the parking brake/pressing brake pedal/full throttle? I tried to do that but it does not do it now... seems like it's out of sync some way,it revs but no arrows show charging to battery until I let off to let it idle, battery bars don't go above 3/4 range even while engine is idling no arrows toward charge. Looks normal while driving though charging flow arrow back and forth with load changes.

CJ

 

Erm... either you or I left out putting it in "D"... probably me...

Find a stretch of road where you have 30-50 yards of clear space to the rear.
Start car
Connect with techstream
Get on the screen I mentioned
Click record button
Set parking brake
Smash brake
Floor throttle
Once it stops charging, release throttle and click the stop button
save data
Click record button
Switch to "R"
smash brake
feed throttle slowly to midpoint
slip brake to allow slow, creeping rearward motion.
Modulate throttle/brake to try and maintain 30-50A constant battery current.
Continue until the ICE kicks on.
Release throttle
click stop button
save data
Drive it as you like
When possible, under File menu, export as CSV
Zip CSV file and post to thread.

 

Steve
I got around to recording that but it wont let me upload a .csv file here.
The recording stopped on discharge so its in two parts.
CJ

 

Hopefully this works...

 

You figured it out. Checking.

 

Charge Chart:


Discharge Chart:



You pulled 2,333mAh out of your pack at an average current of 24.7A with an ending durrent of 42.35A. Maximum theoretical is 2600mAh.

Your deltaV numbers are all under 0.5V even at the higher loads. At rest and under light loads, barely over 0.1V.

You should be very pleased with your results.

Personally, I would regard this pack as nearly perfect as one could expect an 8-9 year old pack to be. No matter what, you'll get a 1-2% deterioration from age+use per year. Looks like that's right about where you are.

Enjoy your very healthy pack.

 

Here's the Excel file

 

Woohoo! That's great news! I was concerned because it seems I have lost 2 or 3 mpg from before pack problem until now, but the outside temp is 25 deg cooler also. HobbyKing gave me credit for that Reaktor that died, other one still works great. All in all this was a fun project and again you're help is much appreciated Steve!

CJ

 

You're welcome. Glad to hear HK took care of you. Based on your description, that shouldn't have happened.

I would expect the mpg drop to be due exclusively to the lower temps and associated increased use of heat and defroster. Defroster is particularly influential as it runs the A/C compressor

 

You guys are lucky! reaktor 300w delivered to Australia cost about $150au each

I can get a couple old school chargers similar to strawbrads indi 16x7's but I am pretty sure they are only capable of max 6000ma batteries

 

Is that from the international warehouse?

The Indi's work great. If you can get one, get one. They work fine.

Edit:

The X2 version: Turnigy Reaktor 2 x 300W 20A Balance Charger (AU Warehouse)

and the quad version: Turnigy Reaktor QuadKore 1200W 80A (4 X 300W 20A) DC Synchronous Balance Charger/Disc (AU Warehouse)

Are both in stock in the AU warehouse.

They are just like the single, but they don't have data logging or temp sensors.

And here is the 250W version:

Turnigy Reaktor 250W 10A 1-6S Balance Charger (AU Warehouse)

10A charge, 20W discharge. It lacks the regenerative capability, but it will discharge a module starting at 2.4A and increasing to 3.2A. It's like 4 Imax B6 in 1.

 

Thanks S Keith

Yes from international warehouse, exchange rate and postage are both killers!

Its not an indi but looks very similar maybe its a copy, good for 20a discharge but max 6000ma battery, would be interested to know if the indi chargers are max 6000ma and if so does Strawbrad only use them to discharge not charge!

The 2x300 looks great maybe I should just bite the bullet and grab one

I seen the 250w turnigy but thought 20w discharge would not be very effective in loading the modules enough to find any bad ones! so I didn't give it much though

cheers

 

The old Indi say the limit is 6000 mAh. The chargers ignore the limit on both charge and discharge. They are kind of dumb brutes. Where did you find some? They are really old.

Brad

 

Hi Brad thanks for reply, they are not integy chargers, can not remember the exact brand however they look particularly similar.

Only two available (second hand) pretty sure they are 20a discharge not 30a like yours, unsure if ac/dc I will have a closer look this week and report back.

May I ask how do you set charge for 7250ma (or whatever you set it to) if the limit is 6000ma.

Matt

 

You rely on the deltav cutoff only. Set to 3mV.

I've done lots of charging with my 3 indi's. Set to 6000 and they blow right through it no worries.

Obviously keep the module restrained and keep a fan moving air to cool it as much as possible.

The reaktor 250 watt Is not as good as the 20A options but it is just a lot better than the IMAX b6... Which is a blue shiny turd.

 

Nice, thought the 6000ma limit might cause them to cut off before the modules reach capacity, will buy the pair if still available.

hear you loud and clear I have 6 or 7 of those blue shiny clone turds lol, so annoying! just rubbish