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Remove door handle/window trim for re-paint

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by navguy12, Mar 22, 2012.

  1. navguy12

    navguy12 Member

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    Situation: I am having a portion of the rear right (passenger) side door re-painted in a couple of weeks to deal with an issue caused by the original owner.

    To prep the area, two things that I will like to do is remove the door handle and the black (exterior) trim/rubber piece that is along the bottom edge of the rear window (acts as a squeegee).

    The on-line manual plus the shop manual show how to remove the thin trim part but I cannot translate the technique shown into a desired result. The manuals also stipulate that I have to remove the rear window so as to remove the rear vertical guide so as to remove the latching mechanism to expose the bolts that hold the door handle to the body.


    • Has anyone successfully removed the thin trim strip at the base of the glass? What 'body english' technique is really needed to get that part off without wrecking it; and

    • Is there an easier way to get the door handle off? Has anyone done this job before and can add some words of wisdom?
    Thanks


    Cheers


    Mike
     
  2. KK6PD

    KK6PD _ . _ . / _ _ . _

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    Well a person that "Gets It"!, yes sadly all those little things have to be removed for a proper paint job. I would think you have to remove the inside door liner, and you can access the handle and related pieces from there. If you carefully peel back the plastic sheet you can reuse it, while it's open, maybe add a little sound deadening. Then you will have to to the other door, then you will notice the front doors are not as quit so you will want to do them as well. But when you are done think how quiet it will sound, all because of a little paint job! :D
    But you started with the right idea, "Do it Right".
     
  3. navguy12

    navguy12 Member

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    I'm familiar with dealing with older cars, just didn't expect the trim on this to be such a challenge....

    [​IMG]From my other life where trim and door handle removal is much more straightforward: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2215669/1977-lincoln-continental
     
  4. navguy12

    navguy12 Member

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    I have dis-assembled my rear door (exploratory evolution only, actual paint job next week) and have reached the following conclusions:


    • Door handle to be physically removed from the sheet metal of the door:
      • I have released the two screws (from the interior of the door itself) that attach the "rear door outside handle frame sub-assembly" to the "rear door outside handle assembly".
      • Some unknown (to me) locking mechanism is simply not letting me detach the aforementioned halves of the door handle.
      • They remain stubbornly attached to each other and not removable.
      • Both the ALLDATAdiy.com and Bentley's information do not shed any light on 'the secret trick' to finally undoing the handle and allowing me to remove it from the door.
    • Rear door belt moulding assembly:
      • This thin black bar that runs along the bottom of the glass at the top of the door sheet metal needs to be 'unlocked' from a simple crease in the sheet-metal from behind
      • The only way I know how to do this is to physically remove the glass which allows one to get a trim tool to release the item.
    Again I ask: if anyone here has any insight into how to remove the door handle and belt moulding prior to a re-paint of the door, please speak up.

    Thanks

    Cheers

    Mike
     
  5. PriusTech

    PriusTech Member

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    Depending on how large the area is that needs paint you should ask a pro painter if you even need to remove handle or trim. Modern paint can easily be blended at edges if it's not a total repaint.

    Outer door handles are tricky, you have to get it loose then pop the linkage off and take the handle out from the outside. I doubt you have to take off all the stuff that the manual recommends. They are always conservative, if you tweak things a bit you can slide stuff past something that the manual tells you has to be removed.

    The trim is more difficult, some of them you can't get off without breaking the clips which you then have to replace. Sometimes it's just a matter of prying in the correct place. They make plastic trim pry tools so things don't get scratched. or you can use electrical tape on a screw driver.
     
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  6. navguy12

    navguy12 Member

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    Success!

    First shot shows door handle and trim part on a table top, next shot the door that will have some paint applied to it tomorrow and the 3rd shot is where the window has to be if you want to pull that trim part off without wrecking it.

    Door handle removal: what none of the tech manuals tells you is that when removing the first of two torx bolts (the one that holds the stationary part of the outer handle) one has to apply some 'push' while undoing the screw because the "black gasket" (not shown, sits between painted metal and outer door handle) has tiny trim claws in it holding things together......

    Window removal for trim removal: once the two bolts are un-done, I found that removal of the metal bar (PM me if you want/need details of that part removal) that backs the rubber seal on the aft vertical window edge allows one to rotate the glass such that the forward edge of the glass can be tilted up as the aft edge is tilted down to get the glass out.

    Trim removal with glass out of the way: one can get a trim removal tool behind the trim part to release all but both ends (there are about 6 metal claws built into the door sheet metal). Each end of the trim part is held in a slot in the sheet metal via a trim clip with 3 small claws in it....

    Cheers

    Mike
     

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  7. KK6PD

    KK6PD _ . _ . / _ _ . _

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    Well done!
     
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  8. NortTexSalv04Prius

    NortTexSalv04Prius Active Member

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    Was going to suggest you search "hobbits" files and contact your local toyota(parts) dealer they sometime have good insight into what you are trying to accomplish.....but now nevermind....nvm

    The door looks fine what kind of "body work" are you going to do??
     
  9. navguy12

    navguy12 Member

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    The previous owner had scraped the lower right side front bumper as well as lower aft edge of rear right door and dogleg between rear right door and rear right wheel opening.

    Repair done on behalf of local Toyota dealer prior to sale 9 weeks ago shows body filler lines plus thinness of paint due to liberal use of thinner for feathering the repair.

    I have the front bumper stripped of all parts, cleaned and sitting in the back hatch ready for another try.

    I also have the rear interior trim/seats removed to avoid having to re-detail the interior after the next two days.....and the rear bumper has been removed so as to keep the work area very simple to deal with....
     
  10. koa

    koa Active Member

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    I realize this is an old thread but I couldn't find any other useful info to removing the rear door handles. To add a bit more detail in case someone searches in the future you need to remove the three T30 bolts that hold on the latch to the door, disconnect the power lock harness from it, also remove the 10mm bolt about 8" below it that secures the window track. This allows access to the T30 on the stationary side of door handle through the opening after moving latch assembly down and out of the way.

    When assembling, you need to make sure the door handle engages the black tab that moves the latch. You might have to use a screwdriver to move the tab downward to seat in the handle. Also, make sure the upside down Y linkage is engage on the latch lever or the door won't open after closing it. This happened to me and I was able to reach in from inside since I hadn't put the inside door panel back on, and move the latch to open the door. TEST CLOSING THE DOOR BEFORE PUTTING THE PANEL BACK ON! The Y is flexible enough to reengage if needed after the latch is assembled.

    Also, the door handles are identical and can be switched to the other door allowing the bottom side of handle to be the topside. Mine were damaged from the sun and the paint was peeling but the bottom side looked good. This is why I removed them and reversed them. Looks way better.

    Hope this helps a bit. This is less confusing when you are looking at it.
     
  11. procharlie

    procharlie Junior Member

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    I have a 2012 PriusV that had the two right (passenger) side doors dented in. I have repaired them and need to re-paint. I removed the right rear outside door handle OK, with online directions, and tried to remove the right front door handle same way, but the handle will not slide out of the door because it has an electrical cable attached to it, I assume for the automatic lock actuator that is on both front doors but not on rear doors. I am afraid of breaking the cable connector, so am asking if anyone knows how to disconnect the handle so it can be removed so I can do the re-paint more easily. Thanks for any help.
     
  12. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    It has been three years since anybody posted on this thread.

    You should really use Search > More... > Advanced Search to limit your searches to the Prius v wagon forums, or you should start a thread there asking this question.

    But knowing nothing about the 2012 Prius v wagon, I would guess you need remove the interior panel so you can get to and disconnect the connector from the inside, then you may be able to slide the handle out. But the guys on the Prius v wagon forum will know for sure, if this has been tackled before.
     
  13. procharlie

    procharlie Junior Member

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    I got it! Found two black tabs toward the end of the cable, pushed outward on them with a small screwdriver and they released the cable at that point, then found a small white tab at the very end of the cable, pushed it inward,i.e. toward the front of the car, and I was able to pull out the connector from the handle. I then just slid the handle to the rear and it came out. I found I also had to disconnect the switch on the door pillar that turned on the interior lites so they wouldn't be on the whole time I was working. Be careful, the cable going to that switch can fall down inside the pillar; I used a paperclip to hook around this connector to prevent it from dropping down inside the pillar. Should be able to do final painting tomorrow.