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Chirping noise by the Brake pedal

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by yiujai86, Nov 29, 2015.

  1. yiujai86

    yiujai86 Member

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    2020 Prius Prime
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    I was wondering if this problem is the "Barking" noise that keeps coming up the search or is it another problem. I will include a link to the video down below.

    To start off, the Prius is 2010 Prius II and has 120k miles on it. Great Car. Only other problem was AC compressor dying at 90k.

    The chirping noise happens when the brake pedal is pressed and does not go away until the release the pedal. It makes the noise regardless of whether the car is on or off.
    It makes the noise when the car is stopped and or when the mechanical brake engage at between 0 and 6 mph.
    Noise does not occur when the brake switch is removed. Not valid solution since the brake lights will stay on.
    It does not affect the performance of braking.
    Here is the link to the video. Your feedback is much appreciated.

     
    MScelery likes this.
  2. FuelMiser

    FuelMiser Senior Member

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    That sounds like the noise of the power brake vacuum booster system (probably not the official name), and the chirping might be related to it since they occur together when you press the pedal. Normal cars use engine vacuum to provide power assist for the brake pedal, but the Prius Gen III uses a vacuum pump (the humming noise) instead. I would have my brake system inspected by a qualified mechanic. Others will be more qualified on the braking system and can explain it better.
     
  3. yiujai86

    yiujai86 Member

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    I can't believe the master cylinder and brake booster is having problems. Correct me if I am wrong but isn't the master cylinder and brake booster for the mechanical brakes? Why would I lose regenerative brakes but the mechanical brake are working perfectly fine/

    Here is an update. So I was driving today and the ABS, TRACTION(car with swirly lines) and BRAKE lights came on.
    1. I lost regenerative braking(when the brakes are held down). Mechanical brakes still worked perfectly.
    2. But the regular "regenerative slow down braking" (when no pedals are held down) is still working.
    3. When the battery was low and the engine kicked in to recharge, it didn't charge. At the red lights when completely stopped, I looked at the display and it showed the little arrow going from the batteries to the wheel instead of from the engine to the battery. Guess the car thought I wasn't braking.

    So my battery wasn't charging now and I knew I couldn't let it run all the way empty. I quickly figured out how to keep the battery topped off.
    1. I kept the engine running when accelerating and cruising.
    2. When using the mechanical brakes I would engage "B" drive for engine braking to get more charge when slowing down.
    3. When the battery was low and the engine was trying to charge the battery, I figured out that instead of holding down the brakes and not getting any charge, was to put the car in PARK and it would charge again.

    In the first 5 minutes of the ABS, Brakes and Traction lights coming on, I figured out how to keep the car battery from completely dying on me so I didn't have to get a tow to the dealer. Now I have a 16 mile trip on the highway to the dealer without any worries. On my way to the dealer with about 1 or 2 miles left to go, the ABS, TRACTION and BRAKE lights turned off and the regenerative braking came back. The chirping sound is still there.

    So the car was inspected and the service adviser says the master cylinder or brake booster has a leak and needs to be replaced and it'll cost about $3400, around $2600 for the parts and the rest is labor.

    Back to the top! I can't believe the master cylinder and brake booster is having problems. Correct me if I am wrong but isn't the master cylinder and brake booster for the mechanical brakes? Why would I lose regenerative brakes but the mechanical brake are working perfectly fine?
     
    MScelery likes this.
  4. FuelMiser

    FuelMiser Senior Member

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    Let's hope the diagnosis is correct, and you get back on the road.
     
  5. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    In B mode there's less charging when braking. That's actually the main reason for that mode, to avoid overcharging on protracted downslopes.
     
  6. Postea

    Postea Junior Member

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    If the Toyota service adviser says that there may be a leak in the brake booster, have them check for a safety recall notice. I have a Gen 3 Prius and I received a recall notice. Below is an exact quote from the notice:
    Certain 2010 Model year Prius Vehicles Brake Booster Pump Assembly (Accumulator)
    What is the condition?
    The subject vehicles are equipped with a Brake Booster Pump Assembly which can develop a crack inside the accumulator housing. If this occurs, nitrogen gas could leak into the brake fluid and gradually cause a loss of power assist. Under certain circumstances, this could affect stopping distance and increase the risk of a crash.
    What will Toyota do? Any authorized Toyota dealer will perform an inspection and , if necessary, replace the Brake Booster Pump Assembly (Accumulator) at NO CHARGE to you.
     
  7. Postea

    Postea Junior Member

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    I did more research on this and found that the Toyota recall is: D0H (that's zero in the middle). There is a Toyota video about this on you tube. Search for: "Toyota - D0H - Brake Booster Pump Assembly". You will see in the first part of the video that the labels on the accumulator are different between the bad and good ones. With a flashlight it is easily possible to see if the accumulator is the recalled one by just looking at the direction of the label. No tools required.
    The video also explains that in some cases the whole brake booster assembly will need replacement along with the accumulator.
    Something seems strange about this problem. I know that if a Toyota Service rep enters your VIN in the Toyota database, there is a red flag to indicate that this a critical recall. I'm sure that I don't have all the details about your problem so I'm sure that the best thing is to take it back to the dealer or maybe a different dealer to have them check if any part of your braking system is under recall.
     
  8. FuelMiser

    FuelMiser Senior Member

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    I disagree. When our Gen II traction battery was old and would quickly swing from full to empty states, I became quite familiar with loss of regen braking when the traction battery got full on long downslopes. In this situation (regen disabled), all braking would be by friction, and B mode enables engine braking to assist the friction brakes. It is the control of the regen braking that prevents overcharging, not the B mode.
     
  9. STX

    STX Junior Member

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    yiujai86 is absolutely correct. The exact same thing happened to me and I finally lost all power braking ability when the ABS, Traction Control, and brake warning light came on driving home from work last night. Manual braking remained, but just barely. Took the Toyota dealer almost 8 hours to diagnose the problem today and I got the same quote: $2800 for the part and about $700 for labor; $3500 total. I called Toyota about the recall because the symptoms, the lights, and the outcome were all the same. My Prius wasn't part of the recall, but I told Toyota maybe it should have been. That went over like a lead balloon and I got nowhere with them. Have to decide what I'm going to do. This may be the last Toyota product my family ever owns if we don't get this worked out somehow. If you own one like this, get rid of it before you get stuck with the bill and buy a decent car from someone else.
     
    MScelery likes this.
  10. Former Member 68813

    Former Member 68813 Senior Member

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    i'm trying to remember, did we have similar problems in the 2nd gen? IMHO, the brakes are a bit too complicated in the prius.
     
  11. MScelery

    MScelery Junior Member

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    Sorry to revive an old thread but really looking for somebody to help.

    2011 Prius. 100k miles.

    Have had the same exact noise for a long time. Recently had the same exact brake/abs lights and braking issues. Took it to dealership. They replaced brake booster/actuator or something like that. The brake lights still intermittently came on. Now they’re saying that they get a code saying it’s the master cylinder. They want another $900 for that.

    Is that actually what’s wrong? Or are they just taking expensive guesses?