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question

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by posaunen, May 16, 2016.

  1. posaunen

    posaunen New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2016
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    Location:
    Ottawa
    Vehicle:
    2002 Prius
    Hi
    My 2002 Prius check engine light went on last week, and the Toyota mechanic said it was the throttle control assembly that needed replacing. So I had it replaced. The engine light went on again, and this time the stuck valve is the "Hydrocarbon Collector Valve", and it is sealed in the exhaust pipe assembly in between the manifold and the Catalytic Converter. I was curious as to how you suggested to put some high temperature grease on the valve, if it is indeed, sealed in the assembly?? (Maybe we're not talking about the same part?) The part in $CDN is $3911.90. The car is 15 years old, so it's not really worth it, but I was wondering if somehow the valve itself can be accessed in order to grease it up? Thank you for any advice you may be able to give me!
     
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

    Joined:
    May 11, 2005
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    Location:
    boston
    Vehicle:
    2012 Prius Plug-in
    Model:
    Plug-in Base
    i'm not a gen 1 guy, but i wish you all the best!(y)
     
    #2 bisco, May 16, 2016
    Last edited: May 16, 2016
  3. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2008
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    Location:
    Indiana, USA
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    IV
    The actuator lever for the valve sticks up from the top of the front pipe; you can grab it if you slide under the car. If you can get it to move you can work some never-seize in around the shaft at top and bottom. I did that when I first bought my Gen 1 eight years ago (on advice from PriusChat) before ever having any problem with it, and never did have a problem with it.

    However, if it's already seized and you can't get it to move, it's probably too late.

    -Chap
     
  4. PriusRox

    PriusRox Junior Member

    Joined:
    Dec 12, 2013
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    Vehicle:
    2003 Prius
    Model:
    I
    It's an easy fix that may take some patience. Mine was stuck hard from NY rust. If I remember right, removing the heat shield gives you easier access. Disconnect the return spring and start working the valve back and forth with pliers. Force it if you have to. Add a little rust disolver and continue until it seems free. At this point it may squeak a little when moving it. (due to rust build-up) Reattach the return spring and heat shield. This is where the patience comes in. You may have to do it 2 or 3 times over a couple weeks and continue lubing it. Eventually it will work normally. It will keep giving you the check engine light until it is free enough to work properly on it's own. I went through this 3 years ago, and have had no trouble since. Saving you large sums of cash!
     
    tochatihu and bwilson4web like this.