Aux power plug ?

Check the fuse box under the dash (just left of the hood release)

Fuse #23 and 29 are the 15 amp fuses for the two power outlets.

 

IIRC to access the fuse box easily we need to detach the lower dash panel. Just follow the first two steps on this web page:
Combination Meter Removal

 

It's not necessary to take the dash apart!

Open the driver's door
Get down on your knees outside the car and look up under the dash just left of the hood release. You should see the first picture. The second picture shows the fuse box with cover removed; it also shows the hood release

The two power outlet fuses are the only two blue fuses in the top row. If you have no test equipment, you could try switching the two fuses and see if the dead outlet switches with the fuses. If that doesn't happen, you have other problems.

The fuses are kind of hard to grasp and handle. However, Toyota provides a handy dandy fuse puller and it's located in the engine compartment fuse box.

It took me a few days to figure out how to open that box so here's my best effort to explain how it's done:

Look at the third picture. (In this picture, the cover is already removed but you get the idea.)
Open the hood and stand on the driver's side of the car.
Grasp cover with right hand positioning your fingers as shown in the pic.
Your index finger will be right over the release tab on the cover.
Just press the tab and lift. A six year old has the strength to do this; so if you're having to struggle, stop and figure what you're doing wrong.

I hope this helps.

 

Well, did you get it fixed?

 

Thank you koolingit very much for your help and pictures. However... I have a mysterious 15A fuse in position 25. It is also bad... I "may" have put that there the last time I "fixed" this problem.

I replaced 23 and 29. Now both ports power my cell charger. I did identify my charger as the offensive fuse blowing device. It has now been replaced by one that can charge two cells at the same time... Time will tell if it pulls more than 15a on that circuit.

 

You're very welcome, but it's Patrick Wong you should be thanking. He's the one that directed you to this post. I'd have trouble finding it myself!

 

Fixed my problem for me! I love this forum!

I plugged in a 200W inverter and it blew my fuse. I totally ignored the "don't plug in more than 120W!" sign in my car... lol

 

Hahahaha. I finally got around to fixing my dash outlet today, and I found this thread, but didn't scroll down until after I had the fuse out with the dash disassembled. I was looking for a part number or something. Ended up just driving to autozone (with the left air vent dash piece still out, lol) and handed it to an employee, who walked me to the correct part.

If anyone's wondering, the packaging calls it "Low-Profile ATM 15A Blade Fuses" and I could only buy five at a time.

 

Toyota really made the fuse box very difficult to get to. I can't get both hands under there to get a reading on a DMM. That is the best way to test but I would have to take the seat out the car just to have room to test. I went to Walmart found a one handed tester that should allow me to test the fuses with just one hand I hope that works I changed a fuse but it did not fix not sure what it was to but it did not fix I will have to get out there where I have some pillows so I can get it fixed.They don't let you know what fuse to even look for. Lucky I had a back up outlet on a pair of gator clips I went directly to the 12 V battery and got power until I can get this repaired. Today you just have too many devices to power up you have to have power. I was running a 4 hole cig lighter outlet that had USB and one of the wires came loose inside the device and shorted out blew the outlet or fuse? I screwed up and went to test in the center box and blew that one too. Here I was facing a trip that I needed outlets NOT COOL. I have a 12 V fan I run after I run the AC to remove the heat from the cab. I will hit the main button for the AC and turn it off that fan allows me to drive with less AC keeping my cool air in the car and moving it around. Start to sweat and I hit the AC to remove some heat. I keep this up until I can get moving at a good speed and use the wind guards I installed.

 

The cover for the fuse box should indicate which fuses are which. I am confused by your statement about getting two hands under there for a DMM. There shouldn't be a need to get a DMM to the fuse box; rather, you can pull the fuse and test for continuity with the fuse removed.

I'm curious about the fan setup you mention. What advantages does it offer over the built-in fan?

 

I've just acquired a gen 2 (got our original gen 1 in 2001, donated it to charity after 15 years / 288K miles). Popped a fuse (faulty USB converter). Went through all of this. Even looked at what was involved in removing the dash, but then scrolled down.
My issue with the fuseblock is that it's just too short a distance from the floor to the fuseblock for my elbow-to-hand length, so it's super awkward.

All that said, you do not need a fuse tester to check these fuses - just pop them out and look at the fusible link. If the fuse is 'blown', a part of the fusible link will be quite obviously missing.

 

It sure was uncomfortable getting my head under the under-dash fuse box.

 

I just want to say I'm not sure it's about watts.

I've used a 375W inverter on those power ports for hundreds of hours, most of which powering a high-powered laptop PC.

I'm no expert but I'm guessing it's about how many amps one is drawing.

p.s. I remain literally irritated by the location of the fuse box under the steering wheel, since I threw my back out accessing it a couple days ago.

 

If the 375 watt inverter was drawing much more than 200 watts the fuse would blow. A 375 watt inverter draws power in relation to its load. Less load, less input watts. Input watts and amps are directly related. Volts x amps = watts 13.5v x 15a = 202 watts

 

Do not use the aux power plug to charge any portable usb batteries. If you leave it plugged and turn off the car, the portable usb battery is sending voltage back to the car creating issues like you can not lock the doors or the alarm randomly starts.

 

Thank you very much for the helpful, knowledgeable info!

I had no idea. I thought if I turned off the car while charging my phone it simply shut off the charging, I had no idea the phone would start sending charge back to the car!