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New to forum - what problems can the 12v battery cause?

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by SixtiesKid10, Sep 14, 2016.

  1. SixtiesKid10

    SixtiesKid10 Junior Member

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    Hey all. I have a 2004 Gen 2 Prius with about 130K miles on it. A few months ago I started up the car after having driven it back and forth that day and the dashboard lights were all out. That was freaky. When I got home I looked this issue up and found that the 12v battery can cause this issue as well as not being able to open the hatch from the outside (yup), etc. It fixed itself the next day but has happened again several more times.

    Recently I've noticed poor visual quality on the touch/display screen, which I figured was probably unrelated. However, yesterday (again, after driving around during the day) the dashboard went black again, and the display screen was also having more issues. Then the most nerve-wracking part happened...when I got home yesterday and tried to shut off the car, it wouldn't power down! I googled the issue on my phone and found I could hold down the power button for a few seconds - this helped but the clock light was still on and the radio playing. Finally I got another tip to work, which was to press the power off button without holding down the brake, but it only worked after a few minutes of waiting.

    This morning I got in the car to drive to work - same issue with no dashboard lights. And when I got to work, same issue with not shutting off properly. I was going to be late if I didn't go inside so I took a chance and locked the back doors only (front doors refused to lock/set alarm). Came out at break time and was able to shut down properly and lock the doors.

    Are these all typical of problems with the 12v battery? I've been reading through the threads and I think there is some other part that might be causing problems also. I've been writing this throughout my work day so I can't remember what I read a few hours ago :D Any advice appreciated!
     
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    welcome! sometimes they are, and sometimes they're not. best to start with a voltage check.(y)
     
  3. WilDavis

    WilDavis Senior Member

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    Welcome to PriusChat! You might find "search" to be helpful - there are many threads hereabouts concerning problems associated with a failing 12V Aux-battery and how to deal with them. Good luck! - Wil
     
  4. JimboPalmer

    JimboPalmer Tsar of all the Rushers

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    The most important (costly problem) is that each time you jump start a Prius, you risk a $4000 repair if you reverse the cables, even for a second.

    The 12 volt battery powers the Computers that check to see if the car is operating correctly, when it can't power them any more you will get spurious error messages that have nothing to do with real problems. This can lead you astray.

    And finally, it may not choose to start the car at all.

    My opinion, (and it is just an opinion) is that any time after 4 years, if you think the 12 volt battery is causing you trouble, replace the 12 volt battery.

    (The 2016 may have a less troublesome battery, we should know by 2020)
     
  5. Kevin_Denver

    Kevin_Denver Active Member

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    For unusual electronic problems on the Prius, the 12V is a good first place to look as it's often the cause and is easy to check. I would get a voltmeter and read the voltage car off, voltage car in ACC ON after 30 seconds, and car in Ready. If either of the first two is below 12.2 or so, it points to a battery issue. If the last one is below 13.5, it points to an inverter issue. If you can't or don't want to do this yourself, take the car to an Autozone or other car parts store that will do a battery test for free.

    Every Prius I've read about on these forums seems to behave differently when the battery gets low. The behavior you're experiencing certainly could be the battery.
     
  6. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    It could also be the Combination Meter (CM) starting to fail, certainly the car not turning off is a symptom of a failing CM.
     
  7. Kevin_Denver

    Kevin_Denver Active Member

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    Agreed, this is the next place I'd look after checking the battery.
     
  8. oliviaspuppy

    oliviaspuppy Junior Member

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    Mine has this issue. After replacing my battery it still existed.

    You can read the below info and decide for yourself if your competent enough to take on this task. I believe the temporary remedy is simple for me but not for everyone.

    Do at your own risk. If you can safely take out the 12 volt battery on typical cars you should be able to handle this. If not seek assistance.

    For this temp fix it will involve some minor disassembly and reassembly. The battery will not need removed in this procedure if the battery has been checked out as good prior.

    1. Engage your e-brake.

    2. I usually release my foot from brake and hold down the power button until engine turns off. Much like a reset button on computer.

    3. Unlock car doors with unlock button on drivers door. This will also unlock hatch.

    4. Exit your vehicle with your keys.

    5. Open hatch then remove the triangle cover plate covering your 12 volt battery which is located in the passenger rear corner of the trunk area. Think passenger floor area immediately in front of rear passenger tail light.

    6. Look on the top of battery for a plate with a low voltage wire attached to a white plug. This plug locks into terminal mounted on top of battery.

    7. There is a tab on the bottom side of the plug. I use my index finger to locate it. Push up on this plug while grasping the plug with other fingers & thumb. Slight wiggling and pulling on the white plug (not wire) will be required.

    Avoid use of tools that can damage or short out the cable.

    8. After some reasonable effort it will eventually slide out and you will quickly notice the hatch and interior lights will turn off.

    9. Leave the white plug disconnected about 20 seconds and then plug back in the white connection. Your interior lights should come vack back on.

    10. After that go up and sit in drivers seat. Press brake and then power and it should turn on and off like normal.


    11. If it worked you can put your car back together and go on your now much merrier way.



    For me it Works until next time. I believe the real fix will be the combination meter repair. From my experience expect it to progress quickly.


    This method also happens to be the only way to remove the keyfob from the slot in the dash during these circumstances.
     
    #8 oliviaspuppy, Oct 18, 2016
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2016
  9. SixtiesKid10

    SixtiesKid10 Junior Member

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    Thanks everyone. I might be able to do all those things myself, and I know where the 12V is. I might have my friend look at it too, though - he's a car guru. :) Just out of curiosity, anyone know about how much it would cost to fix the combination meter if it comes to that?
     
  10. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    contact steve at autobeyours.com for swap price.