AC Problems

Too funny. You are checking the wrong things.
Consider getting the factory repair manual so you stop checking the wrong things. Toyota - New Subscription
You can look up the codes and the trouble shooting steps outlined per code.

DTC B1423 = pressure sensor circuit.
Essentially you have refrigerant pressure that is abnormal (too high or too low).

Think of the warning lights being critical to engine, emission, brakes, or hybrid components. An AC system not working isn't critical when compared to the above list. Yeah the HV Battery won't like a hot/warm car either, but the occupants will probably dislike it more quickly than the temperature sensors in the HV Battery case.

 

+1, have a shop check the refrigerant pressure. If they need to recharge it, make sure it is the proper kind, and that they check for leaks!

(and your English is great - far better than my German! )

 

best thing go to a toyota dealer/
(I wouldn't even mention the dtc; just tell them to check the ac)
you don't want your ac system contaminated in a shop which uses the same hoses/gauges for all cars/
might be a little bit more expensive, but still cheaper than cleaning/replacing the ac system/

 

My guess is low pressure, due to a leak somewhere.

I'd agree with @StarCaller, have a dealership look at it. You could troubleshoot yourself, but it's tough/complicated, best to have the right equipment, all the documented troubleshooting guides. Also, while the AC gas is not unusual, the lubricating oil is, and contamination with the wrong oil could be expensive to fix.

 

Never change refrigerant, ever. It's not a maintenance item

 

Wait... you need air conditioning in Germany?

 

maybe just for dehumidifying....?

 

One thing you can do, well when the system is running (yours is dead), there is a "sight glass" on one of the AC lines. You're able to see the fluid at work when the system is running.

I've found you'll see a few fine bubbles whizzing by as it runs, then a swirl of bubbles when it shut downs. Both over charged and undercharged will show "blank", ie: just fluid and no bubbles, or just air.

 

'Blank' won't necessarily mean overcharged: the Prius uses a subcooling condenser, which means the actual correct charge is when you've added about 100 more grams of refrigerant past when you saw the last bubbles go by.

However (comma!), the exact vapor pressure and bubble behavior is strongly dependent on air temperature and airflow. If you're not checking under the exact conditions specified in the manual while filling (temperature range, doors open, fan setting, etc.) then what you're seeing in the sight glass won't necessarily match either.

-Chap

 

Yeah, short of hooking up gauges it is hit-or-miss. But something easy for DIY.

 

Well, even the manual doesn't say to charge by staring at gauges, it says to charge to 100 grams past the bubbles disappearing.

It just specifies the operating conditions very carefully. If your conditions are different, they'll change gauge readings too.

Gauges can be extra helpful in diagnosis, when you have several possibilities to tell apart that have similar symptoms.

-Chap