Restore dead Prius

Hi Eric
All cells looked normal in that there were no irregularities, all cells looked perfect, there were no drainage stains under any cells. I did not pull the individual battery cell covers and test cell and cell block voltages. Because the main terminal voltage was 210v I figured it was strong enough to install and use.
I am using the Torque app and an OBDII blue tooth module to read codes. I just did a scan and there were no codes at the OBDII level. When I first looked at the car a month ago it had code p3030, This was telling me that the battery was disconnected. When the old battery came out and was tested at the main connection it read zero volts. I assumed this was the cause of the P3030.
I will recheck the plug connectors tomorrow.
In spite of all of this, won't the Brake indicator as shown on the left of my photos stop the whole show?
Also Eric, here is a clearer pic of the Energy state, is the red bar and empty battery the issue?

 

OK dolj, this is very important. Can the HV battery be charged thru the orange safety plug if it was modified?
One more question: will the Brake dash light in the upper left (post #40) stop all efforts to start the ICE?

 

Always look for the simple stuff!
The battery I got from the salvage yard had been disassembled at the safety plug, I didn't notice the little micro connector was pulled out of position and laying to the side. No matter how many times I plugged the orange plug in, I never had current!
The car is now idling in my drive, it jumped to life with the motor starting spontaneously when I put my foot on the brake. This was very exciting after all the discussion above.
Now the system is charging the main battery, this may take a while as the battery read 210v prior to the install.

 

Update!
Since getting the battery install right things moved along pretty well.
The other night after getting it to run, 10 minutes later, the throttle body seized up and it threw a code. The butterfly would not budge.

I dismantled it all the way to the motor and gear. The butterfly/rod assembly with the potentiometer driver should rotate freely and spring back freely. It would move about 1/16". I rotated it back and forth with rust buster penetrating spray hoping it would free up. No luck, I put a 12mm box wrench on it to rotate with more force, not overdoing it, just a little more force and control. No luck. It was 42 degrees degrees in my garage today, it made sense to me that it needed some heat to get the oil to flow. It worked. It became perfectly free. Re-assembly and installation went well.
As I said in the previous post, the motor now starts so my excitement is getting pretty high! The restored throttle body now works perfectly and the car now develops Power! I can drive it normally. Very happy. I live outside of town so most of the time my road sees little traffic. I drove it about 2 miles; the red triangle went away, the battery indicator went from 1 red bar to 4 green bars.

Very thankful and humbled by God's grace.
Thank you for your support.

 

A few more points about the Throttle body rebuild:
All phillips screws were seized to the extent that the phillips socket would strip before the screw would fully turn. I lost one screw, it broke, which secures the motor cover, I ignored this as there were a couple more to keep the cover secure. To remove these screws I applied rust buster and gripped the head with a small Vise Grip and wiggled back and forth to slowly start the rotation. This issue was the worst part of the rebuild.

 

Update:
Along with Manhal's suggestions I found another guide here in the forum, this list strongly suggested changing the trans oil, which has been done.
Checked the spark plugs and they looked good
A trusted Prius mechanic told me not to bother with an Inverter coolant flush - the coolant looks fine, and yes it moves quite a bit showing flow.
12v battery seems to be acceptable
Oil was high by 1 qt when the car was purchased, this was drained to read at the top indicator dot on the dip stick. It is either exactly the same or slightly high by 3/16" after 750 miles

The 1st thing after getting the car running was to understand the codes and correct them.
P0420
P1121
C0200
C0205

P0420 is pending correction, I am ordering an aftermarket CAT and will be welding it into the exhaust stream
P1121 3 way valve is corrected for now, I read on the forum that this can be from low coolant. I added ZEREX Asian formula and it cleared.
C0200 and C0205 are ABS sensor codes, the ends looked like they were lightly gouged .003 to .012 deep. After replacement with salvaged parts from a wrecked '07 (there were no gouges, one looked new) the codes cleared immediately.

Currently I am getting 45 mph (mostly highway) and the battery icon typically shows 2 bars below full