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Please critique my 2013 Prius 2 60k and winter service plan

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by priusmagic, Oct 25, 2016.

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  1. priusmagic

    priusmagic Junior Member

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    1. Raise all four wheels with jack stands
    2. Remove wheels
    3. Lub caliper pins with Toyota lithium soap base glycol grease
    4. Change break fluid following Nutz and Bolts video and Mendel's pdf on the topic(thank you both)
    5. remove engine shield
    6. Change oil, filter and transmission fluid using WS fluid, install new seals on fill and drain plugs.
    7. Clean air conditioning with Toyota aerosol
    8. Look around underneath for torn boots, leaks etc.
    9. Reinstall engine shield adding anti seize grease to the 10 mm bolts
    10. Install tires and wheels rotating front to back torquing to spec(76lbs?);pressure 42-40(Its 50 degrees)
    11. Lower car to the ground.
    12. Add Mobile1 0-20(I'll pump the WS transmission fluid in while I'm under there.
    13. Clean throttle body
    14. Install new air filter
    15. Check fluid levels of both coolant reserves, wiper fluid, brake fluid
    16. Change cabin filter
    17. Clean battery terminals
    18. Install new wiper blade inserts
    19. Pretend I saved $1,300, less the case of wine I treated myself to.
    20. Plug radiator vents with black insulation hose.(Its almost November in Minnesota)
    Thanks to all that have posted help in the past which is where most of this plan came from:)
     
    #1 priusmagic, Oct 25, 2016
    Last edited: Oct 25, 2016
  2. Robert Holt

    Robert Holt Senior Member

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    "You are a better man than I, Gunga Din!"
    You list is much more thorough than what I did at 60,000.
    Could I just suggest adding stability to the 4 jack stands for safety's sake? Depending on the size of the base for the jack stands , I like to have additional support in case of lateral movement.
     
    #2 Robert Holt, Oct 25, 2016
  3. priusmagic

    priusmagic Junior Member

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    Good advice. Thanks
     
    #3 priusmagic, Oct 25, 2016
  4. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    That's a lot of stuff to take on in one sitting; take breaks at least. Say do the hot-drain items (engine oil and transaxle fluid) first, then the others over the course of the next day or two.

    Can't recall what/when/where I've posted these pdf's, just put them all up:
     

    Attached Files:

    #4 Mendel Leisk, Oct 25, 2016
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  5. priusmagic

    priusmagic Junior Member

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    Thanks again. Printing as I type. God bless costco for $10 refills of black ink :)
     
    #5 priusmagic, Oct 25, 2016
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  6. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    I try to print both sides of paper too. Our printer used to walk you through it, has "manual duplexing". Since Win 10 update, no so much. o_O
     
    #6 Mendel Leisk, Oct 25, 2016
  7. priusmagic

    priusmagic Junior Member

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    Yes. Thanks me too. I've also been informed by the "costco ink jet printer refill people" that the ink evaporates even if you don't use it so I'm just printing away. They also said it would last longer if I took the cartridge out and shook it once a month. How did I discover this you might ask. The 3 color cartridges were empty after about a year and I had never printed anything in color.
     
    #7 priusmagic, Oct 25, 2016
  8. StarCaller

    StarCaller Senior Member

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    my wife just bought a new brother laser printer (just black) - best invention since sliced bread (no dried ink, no print head cleaning, just push the button....)
    brother 2380
     
    #8 StarCaller, Oct 25, 2016
  9. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Yeah we have both an LED printer (comparable to laser), and a photo inkjet. The LED's very bullet-proof. The inkjet's actually been behaving so far (a Canon), but our previous HP inkjet was a royal nightmare: if it wasn't mechanical issues or simply "expired" ink, the thing would just "get lost", pretty much every (infrequent) time it was called on to print something...
     
    #9 Mendel Leisk, Oct 25, 2016
  10. priusmagic

    priusmagic Junior Member

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    Next printer :)
     
    #10 priusmagic, Oct 26, 2016
  11. Rebound

    Rebound Senior Member

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    Let's see...

    Loosen the lug nuts before jacking the car.

    The brand of grease you use for the caliper sliding pins isn't critical. The brand of transmission fluid does matter, though.

    While at Toyota dealer, pick up four of the plastic rivets which affix the apron to the car. Replace any worn or missing "rivets."

    Brake flush, oil and tranny fluid change all al once is a lot of you haven't done it before.

    Before you drain the transmission, be sure you have the right sized hex socket. Loosen the fill bolt before you remove the drain bolt, because if, for any reason you can't remove the full plug, you definitely don't want to remove the drain plug.

    Have a glass jar on hand to hold the extra dirty break fluid; spaghetti sauce jars are good.

    If you don't have the vacuum brake bleed tool, use a Gatorade bottle with a 3-foot vinyl tube. I'll explain if you want.
     
    #11 Rebound, Oct 27, 2016
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  12. priusmagic

    priusmagic Junior Member

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    Please explain. I'm old and just know the old fashioned two person approach.

    I did purchase the Toyota WS transmission fluid.

    Great tip on picking up some extra plastic rivets. Thanks. My first complimentary oil change from the dealer resulted in me discovering they must of run short of them because two had been replaced with wood screws. I think the "mechanic" had not yet discovered they come out easier if you pop the center of the rivet out an eighth of an inch or so. I think he must of lost his torque wrench also as I had to use a breaker bar on the oil filter. And so it goes. :)

    I thought the kind of glide pin grease was important as the rubber seals would decay with grease. But often times my thoughts are at least imperfect if not just wrong. Anyway I now have a life time supply of "Toyota Rubber Grease 08887-01206." It'll also come in handy if I squirt one of the caliper pistons out, though with all the good guidance from this sight I'm pretty sure I'll dodge that bullet :)
     
    #12 priusmagic, Oct 27, 2016
  13. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    For the pins I've used this stuff:

    upload_2016-10-27_14-0-44.png
    (it looks like Vaseline or Silicone Di-Electric Compound)

    And for the faying surfaces, points of contact between pad backs, and shims, and caliper/caliper pistons:

    upload_2016-10-27_13-59-46.png
    (has thick-oily appearance, with silvery sheen)
     
    #13 Mendel Leisk, Oct 27, 2016
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  14. Rebound

    Rebound Senior Member

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    There's a nice YouTube video showing the homemade brake flush contraption:


    The plastic rivets for the apron come in two sizes. Most of the rivets are the smaller size and two or three are larger.
     
    #14 Rebound, Oct 27, 2016
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  15. Rebound

    Rebound Senior Member

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    1) You aren't old
    2) We all had to learn the "new" Prius way
    3) You see that you have to put the car into a special mode
    4) Front brakes the same as any you've ever bled, but rear brakes have some kind of boost, so when the brake pedal is pushed, brake fluid just gushes out until the pedal is released.
    5) I guess that if you use that bottle, you can attach it and then press the brake pedal yourself. I'm not so sure that's a good idea, but the bottle (and a friend in the car) makes sense, because you don't want the brake fluid squirting all over the place anyway.

    Have fun with all this.
     
    #15 Rebound, Oct 28, 2016
  16. priusmagic

    priusmagic Junior Member

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    Thanks. I'll probably do it the old fashioned two person way that I know from "old Volvo" days gone by. That's after I follow the procedure outlined in the manual. Hopefully I've spent more time prepping and watching utube videos than this adventure will take. I used to use blue dyed brake fluid to know when to quit but can't seem to find it locally. I'll just use extra:)
     
    #16 priusmagic, Oct 28, 2016
  17. DonDNH

    DonDNH Senior Member

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    Having the bottle pre-filled with a couple of inches of fresh brake fluid and with the tube below the fluid level will also prevent air from getting into the brake lines making bleeding the brakes much a easier task.
     
    #17 DonDNH, Oct 28, 2016
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  18. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    I'd be inclined to cheap out, use the dirty stuff basted out of the reservoir at the outset. I'm not sure I buy how important/effective this is either, am thinking the main thing is to main pressure on the system whenever the bleed bolt is cracked. @NutzAboutBolts 's video in the 3rd gen maintenance section shows pretty well how to accomplish this.

    The one thing I'd vary, comparing to his video, is the sequence, which corners to do, in which order. Maybe it's not critical, will work any which way, but the Repair Manual gives the order as:

    Front Right
    Front Left
    Rear Left
    Rear Right

    Front bleed screws are 8 mm wrench size and 6 ft/lb
    Rear bleed screws are 10 mm wrench size and 8 ft/lb
     
    #18 Mendel Leisk, Oct 28, 2016
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  19. Rebound

    Rebound Senior Member

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    You got this! No more YouTubes, just do it already! :)
     
    #19 Rebound, Oct 28, 2016
  20. Rebound

    Rebound Senior Member

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    ...and let us know how it goes...
     
    #20 Rebound, Oct 29, 2016
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