Problem with 12 Volt Battery in 2016 Prius 4 Touring

I doubt they ship the car from Japan without a 12 volt battery.
How would they drive it on and off the ship?

 

so they would have to ship the batteries to japan.

 

I am thinking you uploaded the wrong photo-- or you sent your kid out with the camera and he photographed the wrong car.

Between the dirt and rust on the brackets, the weathered hose and clamp and "Made in USA" and comparison with the second photo of your battery from the top, your first photo does not seem right for a 2017 Prius.

 

Let's see yours for comparison.

 

My battery looks exactly like the one in your second photo:








It's your first photo that I was wondering about.

 

I'm also convinced it is a different battery. Looking closely at the left side of the picture, it looks like a hold-down, as is typically placed across the top of the battery. And, in the lower right, is that a red positive terminal cover?

Also note that the top shot AND the side shot BOTH offer ratings? Ratings that are different??

I've been wrong before, and could be again, but I think they're 2 different batteries, too.

 

I left the Prius at home today.

I just looked at my photos again. The one photo is not from the Prius. They were taken on different dates.

 

dang! there goes my penn mfg theory.

 

Thinking of Japanese car with made in USA (or wherever) bits: our 2010 came with made in USA Michelin PIlots. Seems like shipping is a booming business, lol.

 

i suppose sourcing weighs it all out. i'm sure a ton of stuff made here has international components. but you'd think michelin would have plants everywhere.

 

Australian Battery is a bit different in it's labelling

 

still yuasa, i wonder if toyota owns some.

 

Wiki doesn't indicate so - YUASA has some 14,000 employees - big company.

 

That, apparently, was the old battery purchased years ago at Sams Club for my 2008 Corolla.

 

That's a bit odd - when mine came up with a pile of MALFUNCTION warnings - it was many months (next service) when I asked them to check it out - they looked and saw that it had Malfunctioned, and that it had indicated a faulty Brake Light Switch.

I don't know Carista - but does it point to a fault or just the warning messages?

 

If it’s convenient to tell us, what were the eight codes?

 

That's what they told me with the Brake Light Sensor - and why they changed it even though it hadn't faulted again for 5 months. It's a snow-ball effect, and one error can cause another to then "dob the previous error in" etc etc etc etc - till 6 or 8 errors show up, all caused by the first one.

I'd be pushing for a new rear wheel speed sensor. I don't think they have miracle cures.

 

Self repairing electronics ?