DIY Maintenance

any good wrencher can do them, but they might be a bit daunting for a newbie diy-er. all the best!

 

Some of the service prices seem too low to be from an actual dealer. The PCV valve service at $20 sounds crazy. The part is almost $10 and it's not easy to get to. Also the spark plug replacement, the plugs are also $10 each, parts alone will be $40.

You might want to go to only 1 dealer and have all this done. See if they'll match other dealer's prices. It would take a lot of time going to that many dealers, they are not the most efficient mechanics.

 

You could do a lot of these yourself but honestly those are pretty cheap prices. I have done some of those to my 07 Prius but for those prices I would have paid a dealer to do some of them. The parts alone cost almost half of the listed prices.

Glenn

 

Really cheap prices. On the trans the fluid is like $10 a quart at 4 quarts so there only charging you $30 labor?

Let me at that!

 

Find a local mechanics who do sidework in his home. That's the best way.

 

You can ask auto parts store employee to recommend good mechanics for you. That's how I found mine.

 

Try replacing your ICE water pump sometime; let me know how that goes for you, sir! We really need "badges" on this site.

 

1) I agree with everyone that has said the prices you found seem way too good to be true.

2) Was the aftermarket coolant equivalent to Toyota's SLLC (Super Long Life Coolant)? If not, drain and fill with Toyota's SLLC. The chemicals in Toyota's SLLC is what allows it to go 100k miles or 10 years (which ever is sooner), from a factory fill (New car). Then 50k miles or 5 years (which ever is sooner).

2) You CAN do everything yourself, but the brake fluid flush. You can do a search here on Priuschat for each of the procedures you want to do, to learn more. Do read a lot, to learn how to do the procedure. Don't forget youtube. I've attached a PDF file of a well written step-by-step procedure to change the spark plugs and PCV valve (that doesn't require disassembly of the cowl assembly); I forget where I found this file, but the person did a great job in writing it. The file doesn't list the spark plug gap, which is 1.0-1.1 mm.

3) Brake fluid flush from what I have read and if I recall correctly, requires the Toyota Techsteram software, to be able to activate each wheel cylinder individually to flush out the brake fluid from that line. You can buy the software (likely hacked copy from China) and cable (possibly hacked and from China too) seem to be available on Amazon for $30; some people have said the software contains malware, so buyer beware. You CAN NOT use the traditional ICE brake bleeding method: pump the brake and open each wheel cylinder bleeder valve.

4) Tools? Be prepared to buy some or maybe your friend can let you borrow some. Here is what you will need:
hydraulic jack, jack stand, mechanics creeper, sockets and ratchets with extensions (a good mechanics set will be the cheapest way to get nearly all the sockets and wrenches you'll need; Lowes, Home Depot, and Sears have nicer quality sets vs Harbor Freight), quality torque ratchet (in-lb and ft-lb; Sears has some for a decent price), spark plug gap gauge (Sears had cheapest one for $2 vs auto parts stores), screwdrivers, and Philips screwdrivers. Air compressor, couplings, hose, and blow gun, to blow out any debris that may be in the spark plug well, before removing the spark plug; Harbor Freight is a good source for the air compressor and air compressor accessories esp when on sale and with the 25% off coupons.

GOOD LUCK and don't feel intimidated. It may take you a long time, but you'll get some personal satisfaction out of it and saved some money.

 

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For Brake Fluid, I wonder maybe it is easier to suck everything from the container and fill with new ones, use it for a while and do it again. Don't know how much it contains, if 1/2 of it is in container, you only need 2 times to achieve 75% new status.

I think when you replace transaxle fluid in traditional way, you only replace 70% to new.

I've never done the brake fluid. I actually heard from many places that it never needs to replaced. Could be wrong though.

 

Even though the brake fluid is in a "sealed" system, over time it can absorb moisture from the atmosphere. Moisture in brake fluid can cause poor braking performance. The fluid that is in the lines, from the brake resevoir to each of the wheels, does not flow (compared to antifreeze that circulates), but rather is pushed back and forth, with each stroke of the brake pedal. If the reservoir has the fluid changed without opening the bleeders, then the fluid in the lines and slave cylinders will still be old fluid.

 

I do not understand how the brake fluid can absorb moisture when in a sealed system?

 

Moisture travels through microscopic holes in the rubber hoses and getting by seals. Therefore, the moisture would be at it's highest concentration at each ot the wheels, which is not changed without bleeding.
To further answer your question, here's some easy to understand info on brake fluid:
Why Change Brake Fluid

 

No I think when you dump the trans fluid on this car you got real close to it all. I've measured it each time I dumped it and almost all came out. No torque converter.

First way to test the brake fluid quality is to use brake ph strips. They can give you a pretty good indication of how hard the brake system is working.

Its not working hard at all. I tested my 6 year old original 70,000 mile fluid with a strip and it showed zero copper contamination.

 

Hi

Just following up on this last part: my mechanic has always been reluctant to bleed the brake system unless absolutely necessary, regardless of mileage. He does test for moisture and goes from there.

With 133k mi. and probably no previous brake fluid change from 1st owner (no record avail.), should I insist on having the fluid service done?

 

While DIY maintenance is pretty easy on the Prius, taking on that entire list with no prior experience sounds like a bad idea.

I suggest letting the dealership(s) change the spark plugs and PCV this time. There is a fair amount of disassembly involved.

You:
Change the inverter coolant fluid one day;
The belt and ATF fluid another day.

Pay to have the engine coolant exchanged, but know what to look for if they do a poor job.

Check the brake fluid (see hobbit's website) and only flush if needed.

Read Patrick Wong's DIY tutorials for these items and watch a youtube or two. You will be fine.
Oh, and don't pitch the car against a wall. Work safely with a good lift, 4 stands, and decent tools. The investment is SO worth it.

 

I am a first time DIYer and following threads from some senior members like Patrick Wong and JC91006 here, I am attempting to do a PCV Valve and Spark Plug replacement. The hardest task thus far was to disconnect the electrical connectors from the ignition coils. Not enough room under the connectors even for my thin fingers to grip while simultaneously pressing release clip on top and pulling the connector out. I was able to unscrew the PCV valve with a 19mm wrench ($10 from local auto store). I remember reading in some thread suggesting the use of a metal tube over the wrench for extra leverage, and this tip came in handy. Comparing the old PCV valve with the new one, it appeared that the old one was just fine, as there were no deposits or other signs of wear. I do remember some other poster also suggesting that the PCV valve lasts for the car's lifetime. Anyway, I replaced it with the new valve, making sure I added a bit of anti-seize lubricant to the thread. Being unable to get a torque wrench in the cramped space, I manually tightened the valve. Keeping my fingers crossed that I did not over tighten. I am waiting for my new spark plugs to arrive from Amazon. I prefer not to disturb the current spark plugs, until I have a replacement on hand. Meanwhile after a bit of reading I will attempt to attempt to clean the throttle body and mass airflow sensor (if the throttle body seems dirty). AngieDIY has some good videos posted on YouTube that make this seem like an easy task.

My dealer quoted $70+ for the Spark Plugs and $30+ for the PCV valve (parts alone), that made my DIY decision an easy one. Online prices for my parts are:

Toyota 12204-21011, PCV Valve $10.99
4 of Denso (3324) SK16R11 Iridium Spark Plug, Pack of 1 $7.58 each
Permatex 81343 Anti-Seize Lubricant, 1 oz… $3.99

 

You can use a plastic trim tool or flat-head screwdriver to carefully pry up the other end of the clips and slide off the electrical connectors.