Wheel Bearing Failure?

My local independent garage charged me $250 labor to do both fronts. If you're going to go OEM buy online. You'll save a fortune over your local dealer. My dealer wanted $315 each and I see they are selling for under $220 online. I paid around $206 when I got mine in the spring I think with shipping both fronts cost me around $425.

 

I just replaced the right rear wheel hub last week while correcting rear wheel toe alignment on both rear wheels. The NAPA full contact shims (one per side) need to go between the wheel hub and the axle faceplate. The car had 98 thousand miles (I'm the only owner). When everything was disassembled off the hubs but the hubs were still on the rear axle, the right rear hub had a slight but definitely noticeable "drag" spot when hand-rotated. The duty mechanic also diagnosed it as a bearing about to fail. After researching the prices (ouch!) I chose to go with an OEM Toyota hub assembly which includes the hub, the ABC wheel sensor and the bearing.

Problem: both the left and the right side hubs were frozen onto the axle. ...and I mean FROZEN. Using a slide hammer, beating on them for 30 minutes each with a large mallet... nothing worked. Of course, heating them up would have likely broken the rust weld but the left side hub was still good, and heating the hub would have cooked its ABS sensor assembly inside the hub.

We solved the problem by soaking the hubs with PB Blaster break-free solvent for 30 minutes, and then applying an 18-inch pipe wrench AND a four-foot cheater pipe on the wrench to rotate each hub in place to free it. The right rear hub took the full weight of two strong men on the aforesaid 18-inch pipe wrench + 4 foot cheater pipe before it began to rotate... and that is some serious leverage. Luckily, I have access to a free lift.

 

Someone here suggested a threaded rod through one of the hub openings. A little hard to describe, but you basically pry the hub off by turning a nut and washer along the threaded rod. Slowly and (hopefully) surely pushes the hub enough to break it free. It worked for them but who knows.

 

Just replaced one of the front bearings in my v, and your post was extremely helpful - thank you!
Two things I'd add from my experience: the tie rod cotter pin was stuck badly and eventually broke when I tried driving / pulling it out, so I had to drill it out. Fortunately there was enough room for my drill in the wheel well, and I had extra cotter pins, so not a big deal.
Second, the old hub was stuck HARD in the knuckle - tried heat, chisels, hammers, no luck. Finally got it out with a sledge hammer.
The hub assembly slipped off the axle very easily - no mallet needed.
Otherwise, your instructions are spot on!
hope this helps
Andy