Lights, lights and more dash lights! And way too much "BEEPING"

Hi everyone and thanks ahead of time for your time. I recently bought my first hybrid, a Florida clean 07 Prius. Not one speck of corrosion anywhere. That's impressive to someone from Michigan. It drove home just fine but soon after the brake actuator/accumulator problem hit. Thankfully the local dealer did the job under a warranty extension, and all was well again, for about a week. The wife was driving it today when suddenly the dash lit up like a christmas tree. I read codes U0123 Lost communication with yaw rate sensor module, U0124 Lost communication with Lateral Acceleration sensor module, C1310Active solenoid H/V system Malfunction, and C1259 HV system regenerative malfunction. Drivability has been greatly affected. The transmission doesn't know what to do anymore, the engine revvs and the car goes nowhere, like a slipping automatic. No more regenerative braking, in D or B. The engine runs all the time the car is on. During one test drive it wouldn't go over 25mph. Lights on include the big red triangle, VSC, check engine, yellow brake.

Now I fail to see how all these items can go bad at the same instant, so I don't believe they did. I can't help thinking there is a relationship the work recently done at the dealer.

Why is it that a car that can be driven on slippery roads with no driving skill and stay under control is plagued with a computer system that cant tell you what's wrong? I'm about ready to go back to an old car with points and carburettor.

 

Thanks everyone for coming to the rescue.
I used a brand new "Launch Creader 6011" that I bought because it has ABS and SRS capability as well as drivetrain OBD. I'm still getting to know it but I'm sure it must have Freeze Frame capability. I did take pictures of each codes screens with my phone, then I cleared the codes but they quickly came back .

This car only has 133,000 miles, so with the reputation I had heard of how trouble free these cars are supposed to be, I am quite surprised and disappointed.

What are we calling "real fast" discharge? The car has been sitting for a few days and I just took it for a ride to get the latest observations and they are:
The battery charge level indicator did read near empty but did get to full within 6 miles.
It will now go over 25mph but the transmission seems to hunt for the right ratio and the engine still runs all the time and sometimes quite fast. It's sort of like a car with a regular automatic trans that sort of slips and grabs in its final miles before the junkyard calls it home.

Now bear in mind that everything was fine one moment, while driving, then it wasn't, and multiple problems all at once. If it was simply the battery why, on such a sophisticated car, a car that will actually help you stay in control in the event you can't handle it on your own, wouldn't an indicator lamp come on that tells you there is a battery problem. It sounds to me like the battery is the main common problem area this car has. Is there no indicator for problems of the battery?? Heck, there are tire pressure sensors and indicator on the panel for those who can't manage to maintain that, is there really no battery problem indicator? On top of that why on Earth would any car builder build a car that becomes undriveable that easily. It would seem to me that since it does have an engine, they could make it so that it remains driveable even with a dead battery. And, if it is simply the battery, why wouldn't the brain of this car know it's a battery problem and not give fault codes for faults that don't exist?

 

You guys are absolutely right!
First: you are right that I am not familiar with hybrid systems as this is my first one, but, I am learning.
Second: My new code reader is also new to me. In fact the Prius is the only car is has been connected to so far. Until now I have been using TOAD on a laptop but I am tired of the bulk, so I got a handheld unit that also reads ABS and airbag faults.
As I was familiarizing myself with it today and I did find a new fault code for "replace hybrid battery". That is the only one that should have been, in my humble opinion.
This is only a confirmation because I took it to the dealer and paid for a diag. The dealer simply uses a laptop, techstream and an obd2 cable. Number 11 block has a bad cell. Ed, you are right.

I've got several laptop computers, how can I get a copy of "techstream" and the appropriate cable at a reasonable price?

Now I've got to get a replacement block and figure out which one is number 11.

 

Thanks. I ordered a used block today off ebay. I'll see what I can find on Amazon.

 

I would like to thank you all again for your thoughts on my problem. I have solved the issue. The dealer told me that cell no. 11 was at fault so when I got the replacement I opened up the pack and noticed that all the little copper conductor bars were corroded. Quite a surprise since there is no corrosion anywhere else to be seen on this car. First I did a load test on each cell and found that 11 was actually good but 22 was a little weaker than the rest so I replaced it. I doubt it was the cause of my trouble but I replaced it anyway. I dipped the bars in muriatic acid, rinsed them in soda water to neutralize, dried them, then wired wheeled them as well as the nuts. They now look brand spanking new. I put it all together, cleared the codes and it's been over a week now and all is well.

 

I get the block/cell terminology now. Every other cell has a small gauge tap wire which is too small for any appreciable load but would be perfect for monitoring battery component performance and if my guess is correct this is where techstream gets its info about individual block condition but stops just short of identifying the exact cell. It would not have taken much to tap each cell this way and that would save the service tech or DIYer some time.

I load tested them in pairs/blocks with a 110v AC inverter powering a small fan for a load and timed it for 2 minutes. I could not load the cells individually because the inverter did not appreciate running on 7v. I read voltages on each cell before and after the test, recorded them and identified the one weaker cell.