MINI VCI

Try Amazon or EBay.

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The X-Horse was a clone of the more expensive cables and went out of business because it in turn was cloned. Ironic really.

Just keep searching for one that supports K-Line. They are out there. You might want to look at the VxDiag for Toyota dongle also available from the same sources or directly from vxdiagshop.com.

 

I'm not sure how widely to spread around the term 'clone' ... J2534 is an SAE standard, after all, and the whole idea is different manufacturers ought to be able to make J2534 cables and compete with them in the marketplace. Drew Technologies Mongoose, Tactrix Openport, VxDiag, original XHorse Mini VCI ....

Now, if you're completely stamping out (sometimes flaky) copies of the other guy's product, right down to the product name and label, that for sure is cloning. That's what's going on with all of these "Mini VCI" cables you can buy on eBay, not a one of which was made by XHorse. I'm not as sure whether the original MVCI from XHorse was an exact clone of somebody else's hardware, or just their own entry in the J2534 cable market.

-Chap

 

Pretty good for $25.

Since you have a Classic Prius, you don't actually need Mini VCI to bleed the brake system if you are just trying to get new brake fluid down to the wheel cylinders, and don't allow air into the brake actuator assembly.

 

Supposedly the "cheap" (~$20) mini-VCIs use a low-capability chip that prevents the tool from being used from some high-demand live data recording functions. I've used one of those, but it was only to read and clear codes (hybrid codes in this case). It also comes with its own modified driver that you should NOT update since the update adds back functionality (that the makers apparently removed) and stops the device from working correctly.

If you're buying from eBay or Amazon, just buy it and try it out. If it doesn't work, then return it on the grounds that it is defective. Shouldn't be a problem as long as they don't specifically say those functions are absent from the unit. They even pay for return shipping, though often they just let you keep it. eBay and Amazon are very good at protecting customers as long as you're willing to read all of the descriptions and provide documentation to prove the item is truly defective. The latter is usually only a requirement of Chinese sellers on eBay, who know they're selling crap, but are hoping people don't notice or just give up when asked to provide pictures.

You could buy an amplifier and when it fails to produce a sufficient signal to make your speakers produce audible sound, they'll ask you to send a picture. True story. They just told me to throw it out.

 

Pat's right. I just used an air activate bleeder from Harbor Freight. After I replace the booster pump, so the system really was disturbed. Mini VCI didn't do much to help bleed the air out on a Gen 1. Good for other things tho. The torque app and a dongle will clear codes and check the readiness monitors. The Evap monitor being not ready seems to be normal and in Tucson at least, doesn't keep the car from passing emissions.

 

Problem with minivci is often not the problem with the hardware itself.

It is often user error when installing.
Trying to install on non-xp machine.
Not installing correct drivers.
Not putting drivers in correct location.
Etc, etc.

Too bad sellers have to take products back when it is clearly a buyer's lack of knowledge, or lack of ability to follow (sometimes complex) instructions.

 

Given those requirements, it's not the software either. It's been about 8 months since I set up and old XP laptop. The installation was somewhat complex, but the video that came with mine ran through the process step by step and in the end it worked well. The video was recorded quite fast, require stop and rewind, and slow down the speed. I can't speak for others, but I think all those years of trying to install hardware and the accompanying software--and tearing my hair out with frustration, may have helped.

 

You have to follow the instructions, sometimes in a text file that comes with the product. You absolutely need an XP (32-bit) installation on a laptop to use it. That can be done by adding an OS and setting up dual-boot, or just have XP as the only OS. And NEVER update the driver or firmware if the instructions say that. You shouldn't have to since you have a very old car (like mine) and it's not like anyone is adding new features to it.

 

Windows 7, 32 bit OS also works.

 

I have a Mongoose Pro (blue) cable. Looking at getting CANtieCAR, mainly for other brands though...

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