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P1121 & B1421 w/ photos attached. 1-2 weeks after Inverter Pump Rplcmnt

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Blackwing, Jun 12, 2017.

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  1. andrewclaus

    andrewclaus Active Member

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    You do need to cycle the CHRS pump, not the inverter pump, and you need a tool for that, whether it's a paper clip, an ammeter, or a Toyota scanner. The radiator bleed valve helps when adding any coolant directly to the radiator.
     
    #41 andrewclaus, Jun 16, 2017
  2. andrewclaus

    andrewclaus Active Member

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    You do need to cycle the CHRS pump, not the inverter pump, and you need a tool for that, whether it's a paper clip, an ammeter, or a Toyota scanner. The radiator bleed valve helps when adding any coolant directly to the radiator.
     
    #42 andrewclaus, Jun 16, 2017
  3. Blackwing

    Blackwing Member

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    What does CHRS stand for? I'm just going to take it in tomorrow to my mechanic and explain everything I've learned this far. I just hope he'll understand how to bleed the air properly after replacing the coolant control valve.

    Although the valve doesn't bother me, I have that part now. What bothers me is P0505 Idle Air Control. Now I think I need to have the throttle body cleaned? Or the MAF sensor cleaned? Both?

    Can't believe I have two things at once here if that's true. Just had the inverter pump replaced 2 weeks ago.
     
    #43 Blackwing, Jun 16, 2017
  4. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Yes clean the throttle body and maf sensor. If error returns, replace throttle body
     
    #44 JC91006, Jun 16, 2017
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  5. andrewclaus

    andrewclaus Active Member

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    CHRS is coolant heat recovery system. Bleeding it is tricky for anyone--keep checking the reservoir level for a few days after the work. Keep some coolant handy to top off. Good luck with the P0505.
     
    #45 andrewclaus, Jun 16, 2017
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  6. Blackwing

    Blackwing Member

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    Guys check out this post from HTMLSpinner to a person that had idling issues. I'm still having the issue of my engine never shutting off (P0505 - Idle Air Control).
    Engine Idle concern: won't shut off, runs high | PriusChat
    "though unlikely could be something (i.e. carbon buildup) blocking the throttle butterfly from closing completely. Has your throttle body been cleaned at all?"



    Now, hold the phone for a sec here. I have even more discoveries.

    1. I dug up my Auto archives and found three (3) Health Check Multipoint Inspections from the local Toyota dealer. I will attach those now. They suggest dirty air filter, dirty throttle body plate, and to replace the spark plugs.
    2. So I decided to check up on the throttle body, MAF, and air filter myself. Again, photos attached, I always attach photos.
    3. Pretty sure the throttle body plate is not supposed to look like that, or I could be wrong.
    4. I found a straight, horizontal crack/crevice in the small tube that leads to the MAF. It's the section that sits within a little clip, attached to the air housing. (Maybe I'm wrong and this "crack/crevice" is normal?)
    5. Air filter is light-to-dark grey.
    6. Video attached of my throttle plate.
    7. And I found a bonus Hershey's wrapper beneath the air housing!



    IMG_6837.JPG IMG_6838.JPG IMG_6839.JPG IMG_6840.JPG IMG_6841.JPG IMG_6842.JPG IMG_6843.JPG IMG_6845.JPG IMG_6846.JPG IMG_6848.JPG IMG_6849.JPG IMG_6850.JPG IMG_6851.JPG IMG_6852.JPG
     
    #46 Blackwing, Jun 16, 2017
  7. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Maf sensor looks ok, while it's opened up, get some throttle body cleaner and wipe clean the throttle body plate
     
    #47 JC91006, Jun 16, 2017
  8. Blackwing

    Blackwing Member

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    I also noticed P1121 says "Throttle / Pedal Position sensor".

    Beginning to think there's an issue somewhere else and that it's not the Coolant Control Valve.

    Read this thread:

    Check enging / Idle sensor?? | PriusChat

    My car won't stop idling. That's the problem right now. Plus I didn't notice any coolant leaking on the white cardboard I left overnight.
     
    #48 Blackwing, Jun 16, 2017
  9. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Just change the valve already
     
    #49 JC91006, Jun 16, 2017
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  10. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    Check the actual radiator for the level. Forget about the reservoir until the actual radiator has stabilised at full.
    That is one generic meaning, but for a Prius it means the Coolant Flow Control Valve Position Sensor Stuck. The only place for the correct information specific to your model car is techinfo.toyota.com
     
    #50 dolj, Jun 16, 2017
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  11. Blackwing

    Blackwing Member

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    Hi dolj,

    Thank you, radiator cap coolant level is o.k. I simply topped off the overflow reservoir and have not noticed any changes in the level.

    I will get the coolant control valve changed, although the P0505 is what continues to bug me. Reason being, I *fail to see* how the coolant control valve is interrelated with the Idle Air Control system malfunctioning.

    I did drive the car over to Advance today to get Throttle Body Cleaner and also the gas station to fill it with just 2 gallons of fuel. Appears to be drive-able but just idles and idles and idles whenever stopped. What a bother. My MPG must be taking a nosedive.
     
    #51 Blackwing, Jun 16, 2017
  12. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    The point is not to check just once. You need to check the radiator every day for the first week, and then periodically for the next 2-3 weeks to ensure all air is out of he system.
    They probably are not related. It is quite possible to have two things fail at once.

    You need to look up the work up for a P0505 and follow the troubleshooting tree on techinfo.toyota.com. it is only $15 for a two (business) day subscription. If you start it on a Friday you have access until Monday midnight to study and print to your heart's content.
     
    #52 dolj, Jun 16, 2017
    Last edited: Jun 17, 2017
  13. Blackwing

    Blackwing Member

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    Just called mechanic. Car is ready, no problems reported during the valve & coolant replacements. Will update with a drive review.
     
    #53 Blackwing, Jun 21, 2017
  14. Blackwing

    Blackwing Member

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    Okay I got the car back from my mechanic nearly a week ago after a new coolant control valve replacement and it appears the issues have been resolved. Although my car does idle more than usual, just not as much as it used to when P0505 was present. That was idling ALWAYS.

    The dash is clear of any warning indicators still, since I disconnected then reconnected the 12v.

    Hoping that my car idling more means its just the AC blowing on a hot day. Not PCV valve or spark plugs. What do you guys think?
     
    #54 Blackwing, Jun 27, 2017
  15. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    I think you should just enjoy your car and don't have to constantly try to find a problem. The extra idling is probably during warm up stages and when the AC is cranking. The engine turns on when the car needs power. It's regulated by a computer that controls everything.

    When your sink is clogged, it does not mean your electrical panel needs replacement
     
    #55 JC91006, Jun 27, 2017
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  16. Blackwing

    Blackwing Member

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    Agree. Seems like i might limp into 300,000 miles. Only 47,000 more to go. Thank you for all the help
     
    #56 Blackwing, Jun 27, 2017
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  17. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    If you are running the A/C (hard) it will always run the ICE more, especially in the first 15 mins of warm up. The A/C, when working hard, draws a lot of electricity.

    To me, it sounds like your car is operating normally.
     
    #57 dolj, Jun 27, 2017
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