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Smart Key not working

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by DC773, May 13, 2017.

  1. Former Member 68813

    Former Member 68813 Senior Member

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    Next I would check voltage of the fob battery. 3.3v is fine, 3v is too low. Also use only fresh brand name batteries that are known not to be fake (everyready is commonly fake).
     
  2. DavidA

    DavidA Prius owner since July 2009

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    Just a thought... How far away from the car do you keep both key fobs? If either are less than 10 feet away, the car might always be "on," sort of. This scenario would drain both the fobs and the 12 volt. This happened to a someone at work with all the batteries always dying too soon. He bought the car used with only one fob. I told him about what would happen if the fobs were kept too close. The next day he found the other fob -- in the glove box! The car had always been in alert mode. For a year.

    Oh, and the 12 volt should be north of 12 volts, when tested.
     
  3. DC773

    DC773 Junior Member

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    Well after sitting overnight it registered 12.4 V, followed by 12.0 V with headlights on. LowER, but not super low.
     
  4. DC773

    DC773 Junior Member

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    Thanks for the idea, that's definitely something I wouldn't have thought of. However the car is parked 20-30 feet from house, with keys even further away.
     
  5. DC773

    DC773 Junior Member

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    Just measured the fob battery at 3.0 V. I switched it out with a new one at 3.3 V. They're both from the same package of Energizers, but maybe the one I had (which is only a month or two old) was a dud.

    I'll see how it works now, thanks.
     
  6. Former Member 68813

    Former Member 68813 Senior Member

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    yeah, Energizers and Sony are frequently counterfeited. especially if you buy from amazon or ebay. because of that, i only buy Renata brand (Swiss made) lately.
     
  7. Sam Spade

    Sam Spade Senior Member

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    No not dead.....yet.
    Those numbers are not good.
    They indicate a failing battery.
    Might last another year but maybe only a few weeks too.
    How old did you say the battery IS again please ?
     
  8. Former Member 68813

    Former Member 68813 Senior Member

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    disagree.
    he tested it once, discharged it some, especially if driver door was opened first and brakes pressurized.
    then the battery sat overnight without charging and was discharged some more during the second test, especially if driver door was opened again.
    his numbers look reasonable for that scenario.
    why don't you duplicate that routine and report back with your own numbers?

    BTW, his battery age was stated before.
     
  9. Sam Spade

    Sam Spade Senior Member

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    You can disagree all you want but the total drain from opening the door really isn't a lot and if the battery goes down to 12.4 and stays there, it indicates that the battery is a bit weak.......whether you believe it or not.

    A totally healthy and fully charged battery should start out about 12.8 and a couple of door openings might take it down to 12.4 momentarily but it should bounce back to 12.6 or so. When you are using resting voltage as your ONLY measurement, those tenths of a volt can be important.
    The older it gets, the more important the tenths become.
     
  10. Former Member 68813

    Former Member 68813 Senior Member

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    Where are your numbers to support your opinion?
     
  11. Sam Spade

    Sam Spade Senior Member

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    A bit over 50 years as an Electronics Engineering Technician.
    Where are your "numbers" ??
    (No please don't. These pissing contests are just disruptive.)
     
  12. DC773

    DC773 Junior Member

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    Well regardless I appreciate the help from both!

    I can leave hood unlatched overnight so that I don't have to open door at all to check battery. Maybe those numbers will be more accurate (?). Maybe simply using my voltmeter isn't ever going to diagnose this issue.... I would like to hope the battery is not at fault, though. I bought it new from Napa auto parts ~1 year ago. It's an Optima YellowTop, which I thought was supposed to be really good.

    Also, I have to bring the car into a dealer at some point due to curtain airbag recall. While in there, I can ask them to check over the battery (or other, if they think something else is to blame) with their fancy tools ;)
     
  13. Sam Spade

    Sam Spade Senior Member

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    OK so at the risk of catching flack because this was discussed earlier.........
    I still think this could be a case of failing door lock actuators. Your is just about the right age when that starts to show up.
    Have you actually watched/listened to the mechanism(s) operating ?? If not, you should.
    The car I just traded in got so bad that when trying to unlock it would beep 3 or 4 times instead of just the normal once.

    But......trying to separate the grain from the chaff.........That one reading of 8.4 volts is REALLY worrisome. It should NEVER be that low and if it stayed that low for very long the battery might have been damaged some.
     
  14. Former Member 68813

    Former Member 68813 Senior Member

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    And I have 120 years experience as a Dean of engineering.

    You started the pissing contest.
     
  15. DC773

    DC773 Junior Member

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    Well, for those keeping score at home:

    1. the Renata batteries didn't have an effect.

    2. I've realized I can always lock the car. So if unlock isn't working by grabbing the handle, I touch to lock. Then wait 3 seconds and unlock works. Odd.

    3. The car has no problem letting me lock my key inside. That's the biggest issue.
     
  16. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    perhaps something afoul in the sks system. have you tried testing the 12v everyday to see if something is draining it?
     
  17. DC773

    DC773 Junior Member

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    Do you mean checking voltage every morning for 5 or 10 straight days? No haven't done that.

    But wouldn't you think if I drive somewhere for an hour, then leave the car for only 5 minutes, when I come back the 12V should be fully charged? I would think so. But locks still have issue...i.e. it's not just after returning to car after a long time (like overnight).
     
  18. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    agreed. i guess that would be okay, but battery testing is more complex when it's constantly being charged and discharged.
     
  19. DrTrivia

    DrTrivia Member

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    I was going to suggest this as well. I had a similar issue with my car a few months ago where sometimes I could lock it or unlock it with the key fob, but not always. One of the door actuators was dying and when it wouldn't respond, the kep fob would not work (they car would not detect the car locking or unlocking). Actually, to begin with it would lock fine but have issues unlocking. It also gave me a hint in that the car wouldn't beep when I locked/unlocked it. Eventually the lock actuator died (two of them did, actually). Once I replaced them the issue obviously never returned. I will add that my problem began intermittantly so, like the OP, it worked some of the time and not others.

    I would suggest that the next time it doesn't work, check all the doors to see if they're completely locking and unlocking.
     
  20. RavMan

    RavMan New Member

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    The LV battery should hold it's voltage around 12.7 for at least a few weeks without being used.
    You guys are correct in measuring the battery under load. I would try lights and aircon at the same time and test battery.
    Also open up the fob any water ingress or cracked coper tracks on the circuit board.
    We had a wet fob that was causing issues.