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New traction battery options in Seattle / Portland area?

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Main Forum' started by exmetrodriver, Aug 5, 2017.

  1. exmetrodriver

    exmetrodriver Member

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    I guess as Bisco had said I should of asked them to show me the new in crate battery so I could have seen for myself what they were talking about. I sure they were talking about the 3 connectors that go into the left rear corner of the battery. They really didn't seem too interested in selling me a new battery. They were really pushing there service department to install it. I got the feeling they didn't even want to show my the new one.
     
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    why not buy the new one, and return the core for credit later. we seem to be hearing about more dealers reluctant to sell batteries, seems to me you should be able to buy it like any part.
     
    Raytheeagle likes this.
  3. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Yeah could be pressure tactic. I know the urge is to push back when shoved, but does the warranty duration get reduced if you install? Food for thought?
     
  4. exmetrodriver

    exmetrodriver Member

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    Well they said they want the wiring harness back with the core. I'm not really into cutting 13 wires on the 3 plug connectors and splicing them back together. I guess I need to talk to another Dealer and try to call Toyota for possible $$ help being in a CARB state. Its worth a call
     
    bisco likes this.
  5. exmetrodriver

    exmetrodriver Member

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    Well one dealer told me 1 year on a DIY, and 3 at the there dealer. But the goons I talked to yesterday said 1 year if they install. So who knows. I'm still wanting to do a new battery, over a rebuilt/reconditioned.
     
  6. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    I think that's correct. Maybe talk to that other dealership some more, if practical, or drop hints with the "goons" that you're likely going to shop elsewhere if they don't get on the ball?

    If getting dealership install bumps the warranty from one year to three: there's a couple advantages:

    1. Two years, lol.
    2. No muss, no fuss, no core deposit, no debates about what's included, and the onous is completely on the dealership to get it right.

    With their behavior to date though, you might be better off with that other dealership. They don't sound too competent and/or honest.
     
    exmetrodriver likes this.
  7. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    There's no cutting off wires....don't do it

    Return the battery complete pack MINUS:


    Electronics bay and everything in it including safety plug wires.

    Main (+)(-) leads

    Rubber vent hosts and white plastic union

    TOP air damn that holds the inlet temperature wire.
     
    exmetrodriver likes this.
  8. exmetrodriver

    exmetrodriver Member

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    Too funny. you would think all these dealerships would be on the same page. Disappointed :(
     
  9. MilkyWay

    MilkyWay Active Member

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    Nope. All different prices and all different skill sets.

    Wanted a key made for a GM car and prices varied from $40 to $100 at different dealerships.

    Took a diesel that had a fuel pressure code to Ford figuring they are the best....they wasted a $120 diagnosis hour and came back like robots with a checklist of what their computer tells them to do:

    First we check this.
    Then we replace all the injectors (that is a multi-thousand dollar repair FYI)
    Then we replace injection pump (another multi-thousand dollar repair)
    Then we check the fuel lines

    It was the most idiotic thing. A good diesel tech would figure it out without ripping you off and unnecessarily replacing good parts.

    I'm sure a different Ford dealership perhaps would have pinpointed problem in an hour.
     
  10. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    fish rots from the head down.
     
  11. exmetrodriver

    exmetrodriver Member

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    I love that. So so true !!!
     
    bisco likes this.
  12. ericbecky

    ericbecky Hybrid Battery Hero

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    There are specific new parts that come with the pack. Use all of them.
    Note the difference in the specific nuts they supply. They go in specific places.

    Given each them all the old parts you remove. Positive cable. Negative cable.
    Old nuts that were replaced with new
    Fuse holder. Associated nuts. Be sure to put the rubber mats in place to cover the terminals before closing the lid.. Make sure the mats do not block the mounting holes. Wrap the end connectors in plastic bag and secure. Just like the new core you were given. Supply the VIN, year, model, and odometer reading that core came out of.
     
    SFO and Raytheeagle like this.