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Small crack on engine near PCV Valve

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by DevChatt, Aug 17, 2017.

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  1. DevChatt

    DevChatt Junior Member

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    Hey Guys,
    While trying to change my PCV valve I think i may of accidentally torqued to hard into the engine and created a slight dent :/.
    I'm not sure if this is an issue...picture below. Didn't turn the car on.

    I have a few seized bolts i'm trying to replace. Putting everything back together now.

    Do you guys think this will be a problem? upload_2017-8-17_18-39-22.png
     
    #1 DevChatt, Aug 17, 2017
  2. hchu1

    hchu1 Active Member

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    That looks like a crack. hard to tell if that is dirt or a breech. Clean the area really well, if it's not a breech don't worry about it. If it is, I'd rough up the area a little around the breech and put some jb weld on it and call it a day.


    2006 Gen 2
    2014 Gen 3 v wagon
     
    #2 hchu1, Aug 17, 2017
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  3. DevChatt

    DevChatt Junior Member

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    Thanks!

    It doesn't seem to be a breach. It doesn't push any further. I cleaned it up and put it away for now. Turned the car on and everything seems OK.

    Will go for a decent run after i shower up and see what happens.
     
    #3 DevChatt, Aug 17, 2017
  4. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    That looks like a good idea. It appears to me to be a crack and it looks like it goes around the bend toward the #4 spark plug coil.

    Because I get kinda curious, I might be inclined to spray some antiperspirant deodorant around it and run the engine first to see if any oil comes out and turns that white powder black. Then clean, sand, and JB Weld. It's the valve cover, so it's not like it has to hold in any internal pressure. But it might get interesting if you have to replace the PCV valve again.
     
    #4 jerrymildred, Aug 17, 2017
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  5. DevChatt

    DevChatt Junior Member

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    Unfortunately i put everything back and getting to this may be a slight pain..:/
    I did a quick run and everything sounds great (especially now i changed out the plugs, cleaned the throttle body and MAF). Wasn't able to get to the PCV...dang thing was impossible to get out with a box wrench...which evidently caused above.

    I did get one or two seized bolts actually...gotta bring it to a shop eitherway to get em to drill it out and probably just ask them to do the PCV...)..i'll ask em if they see anything.
    I got to do a quick run to target 15 miles down the road...
     
    #5 DevChatt, Aug 17, 2017
  6. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    It won't make noise, but it might let oil splash out.

    It will come out and it shouldn't be all that hard if you get some stuff out of the way. I've replaced two of them on gen 2 with no issues. Even used a toque wrench to tighten, if I remember right.
     
    #6 jerrymildred, Aug 17, 2017
  7. DevChatt

    DevChatt Junior Member

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    Ah you are right.
    I may just hit Walmart and get some Jb weld and see if I can apply it tonight.
    It seems location wise I may be able to get to the crack without disassembling anything which is great! It's a tight squeeze but it will do what is needed.

    Regarding the screws..I mistyped in my fast worried mind. I have one cut off screw stuck that is meant to be holding the harness Down...
     
    #7 DevChatt, Aug 17, 2017
  8. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Is that up at the top near the valve cover? I've got a vague recollection, someone with a similar issue recently, and it was up at the top end. In that area yeah I think jbweld would work.
     
    #8 Mendel Leisk, Aug 17, 2017
  9. DevChatt

    DevChatt Junior Member

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    Yeah it is near coil 4.

    Double checking online pictures I believe this is actually on the valve cover itself...
     
    #9 DevChatt, Aug 17, 2017
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2017
  10. DevChatt

    DevChatt Junior Member

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    never used JB weld before, first time for everything...

    probably the best idea to use here is a toothbrush and just mix coat over the area. It seems a toothbrush will fit through as well.

    I'll probably do this on Monday (3 days from now) just because I have to order it and need to make a road trip over the weekend (about 150miles--hopefully this isn't too bad...if it is i can probably just hit walmart and apply it tomorrow prior to my road trip)


    Thanks guys for all the help!
     
    #10 DevChatt, Aug 17, 2017
  11. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    I use a deep socket to remove the pcv valve. I think it's easier.

    But I've replaced 4 of these now, and not 1 was bad. So I'm going to stop replacing them now
     
    #11 JC91006, Aug 17, 2017
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  12. DevChatt

    DevChatt Junior Member

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    what size is it?
     
    #12 DevChatt, Aug 17, 2017
  13. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    I usually have a new one ready, and use that to size the right socket
     
    #13 JC91006, Aug 17, 2017
  14. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    It is.
     
    #14 jerrymildred, Aug 18, 2017
  15. DevChatt

    DevChatt Junior Member

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    Excellent. Thank you guys!
    I think im gonna play it safe rather than sorry. Gonna go hit the advance auto parts and buy a stick of the JB weld and work on it prior to making it to NYC this evening. I'm gonna work and apply it nowish. Would I be able to drive safely later in the evening?
     
    #15 DevChatt, Aug 18, 2017
  16. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    The factory PCV is 19mm.

    I've used a long handled (12 point) 19mm wrench (non-racheting) to remove one once and would recommend the racheting version of such as there is little room to actuate the wrench.

    I also didn't replace mine after cleaning/inspection, but for the effort involved it might've been a good idea.
     
    #16 SFO, Aug 18, 2017
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  17. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Might be 22 mm. I believe 3rd gen is, haven't checked myself yet.
     
    #17 Mendel Leisk, Aug 18, 2017
  18. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    I've only used the 2 part epoxy (twin tubes), not the stick version of such... if using the tube version it needs many hours (4 - 6 I think) before you *might* consider using it, and overnight for a proper cure. I've sped up the set/cure time by using a heat lamp and had success (doesn't take long), but your mileage might vary.

    J-B Weld Twin Tube | J-B Weld

    Epoxy Putty Sticks | J-B Weld
     
    #18 SFO, Aug 18, 2017
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  19. DevChatt

    DevChatt Junior Member

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    Thanks guys! I just went to a local pep boys asking about it and they pretty much said the same thing you guys did:
    It doesn't look like its leaking, don't worry about it. (You learned from your mistake). IF you'd like you can put on some JB weld and make it look pretty and be safe.

    I baught a tube, and will apply it now. Will have to drive the car in just about 6 hours as is, so hoping for the best.

    Worst case scenario, if it doesn't stick...i go on travel tuesday and will just apply it on my car before.
     
    #19 DevChatt, Aug 18, 2017
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  20. DevChatt

    DevChatt Junior Member

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    Just applied the stuff and it went on well.
    Now to wait 4-6 hours for the results!
     
    #20 DevChatt, Aug 18, 2017
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