My P0A080 fault code and battery rebuild

From earlier, my DTC's were

B1421
P3000
P0A80


So then, when will these identifier codes appear telling me which blocks are bad?

Will that general code (P0A80) not follow up with them?

Thinking maybe the replace whole pack idea is better, especially if the problem might have
spread into other parts of the pack besides the modules.

 

When one of the six cells in one of the two modules in a block goes bad. Then and only then will you see one or more of those codes.
Don't despair, this will probably be happening really soon if you continue to drive your Prius with the P0A80 code.

Here's what the P0A80 code means.

Which is essentially what fotomoto tried to explain to you. The voltage of one of the blocks dropped enough with respect to the other 13 blocks in the pack for the DTC detection condition to be met and set the code. The only way to locate the weak block before a P3011 to P3024 code appears is via monitoring with Techstream or with the Torque app for Android. The weak block will have the lowest overall voltage in the pack when the pack voltage drops in response to a load like takeoff from a stop.

 

So, how long do I have to continue driving this thing with the Red Triangle Light and all the dash warning lights on, before it starts sending me those block identifier codes?

 

There is no way to predict exactly when one of the six cells will fail in a module. I have provided the information you require in my last post to locate the weakest modules so you can replace them now before a cell reversal occurs and potentially strands you somewhere far from home or heaven forbid causes you to get into an accident.

And, if weak modules are not the cause of the P0A80 (I'm convinced that there is at least one that is) then there is something amiss with the battery ECU which is more difficult to troubleshoot and beyond the skills of most DIY mechanics to solve.

But if you prefer waiting until failure occurs before doing anything, be my guest (.....).

 

No, that wasn't my intent, but it was implied in the post that that would happen.


I'm more concerned about the P3000 code which appears to imply a failure elsewhere in the battery pack....if I'm not mistaken. In that case, knowing, and changing, any blocks would be pretty much a waste of effort.

 

Then by all means concentrate on the P3000 code. I don't think it will get you any closer to the solution but hey you're in charge here so good luck pal. I'm done with you.

 

P3000 is not really a helpful code.
Too generic.

Basically says the car has a problem... which of course you already knew.

I tend to ignore it and look for the accompanying codes which actually have helpful information.
P3011 or any of the block voltage codes. Or maybe a p3030 snapped line code.

 

P3000 Is a generic code and is reported by another ECU (ABS, maybe, but don't quote me), and is along the lines of I heard from the HV ECU that he's go problems, so I'm shutting down some stuff. I posted this P3000 code so you know I know there is a problem and have taken precautionary measures.

 

Why the attitude? Not trying to pick a fight with you jadziasman. I do appreciate you posting the code definitions. I'm not an expert technician and I am trying to make sense of a lot of conflicting information I'm getting from various different sources, and getting my GD car running again without a lot of diagnostic gear at my disposal. I'm thinking that replacing the whole batt pack will end around all these problems I'm having in one fell swoop, plus give me some piece of mind with a warrantee. That's all.

 

There are no other codes
B1421, P3000, and P0A80 are all there is, and I'm told that B1421 is either a driver's side window fault or A/C fault code. Not sure if that helps.

 

So I would look at a few other values.

For instance, what is the Delta SOc

And then look watch the voltage of all Vblocks at the same live.

This can be done with less then $50 of equipment and an Android app.

Buy an Elmn 327 bluetooth OBDII adaptor from Amazon. You could have it before the weekend.
Using an Android tablet or smart phone, buy/download the Torque Pro app.

Then you will be able to see the data and the codes.

Call me if you need help walking through this.

 

Eric, which reader would you reccomend? I see a lot listed including various different versions....a V1.5, a V2.1, and a V3.0 version for example, that might have different capabilities.

I want the one that lets me both read the codes and view engine data, etc, as the car is running (like RPMs, voltages, mani press etc) and make sure it will show the HV battery cell readings on a hybrid vehicle. I know nothing of these devices and want to get the right one, that's why I ask.

The BAFX Products 34t5 looks good? (but it's not 327 if that's important?)
thx

 

It is not that there are MORE DTCs necessarily, but that within those that are there additional detail can be found.

In this case, it would either be laziness or incompetence as to why they did/could not provide those details.

I have TS software, but cannot get it to cooperate with my dongle, but I *think* you click on the "snowflake" looking icon associated with each DTC to get the additional detail.

 

I am much more hopeful after seeing this!! did it still work out? I am just starting the process. Any suggestions?

 

thank you

 

You're definitely right. A hobby charger can be used.

The only advantage I see for the grid charger is that it can be recharged UB the car, or something like that.

But to rebuilt the pack, the pack must cone out of the car

 

That's a great idea. Timed intervals would be easier to manage, for example 20 minutes for each module. The stronger modules would still be above 7v, and the weaker ones down to 6.5v or lower. Along with feedback from readouts, replacing the weakest few modules instead of just one could help to prolong the life of the battery pack. I like the idea of using less expensive chargers as well.