More problems now.

Which would be the absolute best brake pads for the Prius?

 

I acknowledge that's a widely-practiced approach. Another approach is to say, hmm, by not replacing parts "just because", I can use OEM parts when I do, and I'm not spending more. The Toyota pad set is more than a "few bucks", enough that I probably wouldn't throw a new set on just because the wheel's off, but as seldom as they need replacement, I don't mind the price when they do.

Honestly, I don't know specifically if there is anything about Toyota pads that makes them better than Brakes ᴙ Us pads. There have, though, been other parts on my Prii where I've had occasion to compare, and learned that the Toyota quality difference was more than just the name on the box. Given those experiences, I'm willing to assume that could be true of their brake pads too, even though I lack any of the materials-science fu I would need to pass judgment on the differences myself.

-Chap

 

I'll be getting replacement brake pads from Toyota - thats the "next" item to work on, at sometime in the (somewhat) near future, along with a fluid flush & clean/lube of the pins. Always seems something else comes up that is even more important :-/

 

Would someone need an impact wrench to remove the caliper or bearings?

Pixel XL ?

 

I've never seen the bolts involved require that much persuasion. A good firm pull on a breaker bar should get everything unscrewing nicely.

The wild card is what happens once you've removed all the bolts from the hub bearing assembly, but before that assembly comes off into your eagerly waiting hand.

In both jobs I've done so far, I was able to get there with several minutes of nonstop whanging with a slide hammer. But that was on a Gen 1, without the complication of steel-to-aluminum interfacing making it even more fun in the later generations. This seems to be the part of the job where you read the most creative different PriusChat accounts of getting the assembly to finally come out after the bolts are all removed.

If I had to choose one air tool to bring on the job, I don't think I'd feel any need for an impact wrench, but I might consider an air hammer.

Pro tip (for the rears, anyway): be sure the wheel speed sensor wiring is disconnected first, so in case your method of hub removal culminates in the hub finally flying out of the car, it doesn't take some shreds of the wiring with it. (There have been PriusChat threads, yes.)

Or, keep the mounting bolts threaded in by a couple turns, so the hub can come loose, when it finally does, without becoming airborne.

-Chap

 

some were persuading the rear hub to separate with help of threaded rod, nuts and washers, placed so that screwing a nut outward pushes it apart.

 

I think I've also seen threads where force applied to the hub eventually pressed it out of the bearing assembly (in more or less the way you used to expect, back when hubs had bearings that weren't HBAs), leaving the rest of the assembly still stuck in place without the handy hub to grab onto.

-Chap

 

Yeah air hammer seems interesting. I watched a video, someone tapping a wheel stud out, very easy.

 

Ordinarily, I would keep it in a separate room from any ball bearing (and I would use a nice civilized stud puller for changing a wheel stud).

But a bearing I'm planning to throw away? LET ME AT IT!!!!!

-Chap

 

I've done the fronts and a rear hub assembly, but in a "rust free" environment.

Having seen what struggles can be had in the snowy areas, be prepared for the need to use excessive force to separate the assemblies from the Prius .

For the fronts, there is a lock but on the shaft. Do not just rotate it off (you'll mar the threads). Either buy a tool or drill out the axle nut and purchase a replacement axle nut ($9 on Amazon or $14 at the dealer). Before you start "having at it" on the assemblies, remove the speed sensors to avoid collateral damage.

Good luck and keep us posted .

 

It is not attached to the hub assembly, but appears in the space between the axle and the assembly. It had a 10mm bolt that holds it in place.

Take it out of its locations and drape it along the brake line to the caliper before "hammering away" at the hub removal.

Hope that helps.

 

Being in salty New York, hopefully looks aren't deceiving .

Helped my old man do a hub assembly on my mothers 09 Nissan Altima (they live in Northeastern Pennsylvania). Not too bad, but it was rusted on there a bit.

Getting the rotor off might be a challenge too. If not planning on changing that at the same time (I did not), use some PB blaster and it helps.

Then it's just a matter of you vs. the inanimate object.

 

There are a pair of tapped holes in the rotors. Screw M8x1.25 (say by 25 mm long, fully threaded) into these, and you can pop the rotor free if it's rust-stuck.

I've done this, and at first thought I might have the wrong thread pitch, it was so difficult to screw in them in. I found just screw them in till they fight, then back them them out and blow out the loosened rust, and repeat.

Once you get them both through, and in contact with the bearing face behind, alternate giving each a small turn, and eventually the rotor will pop free, fairly spectacularly, in my case.

The Repair Manual suggests to put a mark on one wheel stud and the rotor, to mark the current orientation, and reinstall the same.

 

Timken bearings through Rock Auto? See they ship to Canada even, reasonable prices and shipping too.

 

I went with the cheap Dura Go hub for the front. Has been working well (much quieter) for over 1 k miles since changed .

Just one data point though .