2011 Prius Won't Start Post Hybrid Battery Replacement

Hi all. Here's the scoop.
Last week I had to do a business trip, my very daily driver 2011 Prius was left in a lot for 4 days. Picked it up, drove 200 miles home, no trouble. Next day, while driving the thing 2 miles from my sons school, it totally conked out. Lights were on, engine was very much off, no power steering, nothing.
Tried to restart, would get the engine to run a little bit, then it would just die out. At times a weird clacking noise would come from the left front, and thats it.

It had had some body work done (front clip) a quick call and a tow back to the shop to determine if they inadvertently left something off/on/disconnected whatever. All proved fruitless. A few error codes that we wiped, couldn't get it started up, and a further tow to the local toyota dealer, who has a rather dubious reputation.

After allegedly lengthy analysis, they informed me it needed a new hybrid battery, handed me a 14 page report, that showed the following 3 things
p0A0d High voltage system interlock high
p0A84 Hybrid battery pack cooling fan m control circuit low (fan was disconnected in trunk, we were bench testing it to see if it worked)
p3000 Battery Control System.

The battery had a few low cells, and the car had 207k on it, so after some deliberation I had it shipped to my shop (i do vintage car repair), ordered a battery from Greenbean, and waited for the install guy.
Guy came today, installed it all, tried to wipe the codes and reset the great beast, all to no avail.

Still showed "check hybrid system" ,and gave codes 3191 and 3190. No problem, thought I, it was due for new plugs, a MAF sensor cleaning, and a throttle body cleaning (so gross and gacked up), so all of those things were accomplished, and then it was fired up.

Engine ran for a few seconds, then.. Nada. Still shows 3191 and 3190. If I try to delete those codes using a basic bluepoint obd reader, the car goes BEEEP and the "check hybrid system" message comes back on.

12v battery has good voltage, the hybrid battery will power the entire car in EV mode (moved it ten feet but didn't want to run it longer obviously) but the gasoline engine won't fire up. And i'm wondering why?
Questions
-is some higher end deeper maching required to delete the codes, or will a very basic bluepoint OBD2 do it?
-like a dumbass totally forgot to bench test the fan, if the fan is kaput will that take out the entire system at start up?
-Ideas on what to do next to further diagnose the problem?


my own thought was that the car was one of the affected "inverter issue" vehicles, but I suspect we may have inadvertently wiped the codes that showed that on the first go around, and the car hasn't fired up long enough to throw them again and the douchebag dealer refuses to look at that or service that since it doesn't throw the codes now...

Next up for me tomorrow is a fuse check, fuel pressure test potentially, and whatever you guys come up with. Man. I wish this thing had carbs.

 

No real work done to the car. Truly trouble free. Front clip replaced due to parking mishaps in Brooklyn. No mice/vermin damage to be found.

 

rebuilt battery has been installed for all of ten minutes...

 

Toyota techstream different/more intensive than a high end snap-on scanner?

 

No, you misunderstand... I work as a mechanic, albeit one that restores cars made before the acceptance of fuel injection. So I've got access to all sorts of wacky stuff, and it would seem the high end snap on wireless scanner does detect the sub codes, but my basic ones do not. The high end one is a loaner from my neighbor, in truth most of our cars don't have OBD...

 

UPDATES.

All fuses good, relays seem ok, MAF ok, throttle body cleaned. Car will
-go to ready mode
-power up
-trip "check hybrid system"
-start to crank the gasoline engine
-sputter out and do zip.

After old fashioned diagnostics, I've determined the fuel pump is D E A D. It gets power, when it should get power, but the pump is shot. Upon removal lots of gack in the impeller/filter area. Great. So thats likely the reason the gasoline engine won't stay running.

researching options for replacement now. What a pain.

Question is is the lack of a gasoline engine/fuel pressure/etc going to trip the "check hybrid system" light?

 

well thats the thing.... The car got towed up to a toyota dealer, where they performed "extensive diagnostics". They determined that it did have 6 or 7 bad cells whilst in the midst of these diagnostics. Car has 207k, oem battery, so that it was on the way out was never in question, it was more a question of timing and "are you guys trying to jack me on a several thousand dollar repair I don't need immediately"?

Of course these extensive diagnostics don't mention fuel pressure. Which, you now, if I was extensively diagnosing a vehicle I'd investigate. But thats just me. Now I get to find a pump, make an angry phone call to the service manager (who did have the common sense to have his minion follow up with me via telephone to ensure I was fully satisfied with my time spent there), and ask Wth they didn't diagnose that.. clowns

 

Update. New (to me) fuel pump installed. Apart from a brief period of stuttery idling that I'm chalking up to fuel rail pressurization, etc, flawless. No new lights up, a few trips around the block in power mode to blast out the gook, and away we go. Thanks!