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Help with codes

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by evallded, Dec 2, 2017.

  1. evallded

    evallded Junior Member

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    So as mentioned in another thread I recently picked up the VXdiag code reader. It only took a few hair pulling hours to finally get it all to connect correctly. But here is what I got. I am brand new to the software and not even 100% that I am doing it right.

    Here are the codes
    C1310
    C1319
    C2300

    I am not certain that the first 2 weren't caused by my having the car on jack stands and getting it into drive to see how things were functioning or if they are somehow related?

    Photo of scan below
     
    #1 evallded, Dec 2, 2017
  2. evallded

    evallded Junior Member

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    Whoops
     

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    #2 evallded, Dec 2, 2017
  3. evallded

    evallded Junior Member

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    I have within my grasp a low mile replacement transmission, but I really don't want to do all the work if this could mean anything else.
     
    #3 evallded, Dec 2, 2017
  4. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    I don't remember where, but I do recall someone mentioning they were having the same P Lock issue, couldn't find the cause, but ended up solving it by swapping the engine ecu. Not sure how that's related, or if it makes any sense. I just know it stuck in my mind. If you have a spare ecu available, may be worth a try before a full blown trans swap.
     
    #4 TMR-JWAP, Dec 2, 2017
  5. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    DTC C2300: Actuator System Malfunction. This is logged by the transmission control ECU and says there is a problem with the shift control actuator, the transaxle parking lock control relay, the transmission control ECU, or the wiring harness.

    Again, before doing a full blown transaxle swap, there was a case where the C2300 really did mean there was a problem with the P-Lock actuator. They replaced the actual actuator and that resolved the problem.
     
    #5 dolj, Dec 3, 2017
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  6. Elektroingenieur

    Elektroingenieur Senior Member

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    Especially since you seem to have a working Toyota Techstream diagnostic system, I’d suggest using troubleshooting procedure provided in Toyota’s Repair Manual for each diagnostic trouble code stored in the car. You may need to scroll down in the Health Check Results list, by the way, to see DTCs from other systems.

    The Portland Public Library—like many others—sponsors free access for its patrons to the ChiltonLibrary database, which includes most of the text and illustrations from the Repair Manual. After selecting 2006 Toyota Prius, type the DTC in the search box, and then go to the section where it appears in the title to see the troubleshooting steps.

    The Repair Manual is written with the assumption that you’ve already checked the auxiliary battery voltage, which must be in the range 11 V to 14 V, and that the car is in its usual condition (all four wheels on the ground, all parts installed, etc.), except as a specific procedure directs. If you’re not familiar with Toyota’s procedures, you might find it helpful to read the three sub-topics under “How To Troubleshoot ECU Controlled Systems.” Bear in mind that the Intelligent Tester was the predecessor of the Techstream system; when the Repair Manual tells you to “Read the DTCs,” you can just run the Health Check again.

    For example, for DTC C2300, ACT (i.e., Actuator) System Malfunction—which you’re supposed to troubleshoot last, if there are other DTCs present—there is an 11-step diagnostic procedure, in which you check several voltages and wire harnesses, a Data List (retrieving live information from the car with Techstream), the P CON MTR fuse, the P CON relay, and the shift control actuator itself. The Transmission Control ECU is replaced only if it’s shown to be defective or the other causes have been eliminated.
     
    #6 Elektroingenieur, Dec 3, 2017
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  7. evallded

    evallded Junior Member

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    Thank you, I appreciate the reply. I did go through and rule out the 12v battery. Trust me, I really wanted this to be the issue. I was told by my GF that when this started ( I was not in the car) That the car was revving high and not pushing forward. Followed by some shaking and a multitude of dash lights and warnings including the usual "P lock actuator" warning. I chocked most of this up to knowing I needed a new fuel injector and .....a bit of drama haha. When I went out and got in the car it drove OK on a very short drive but obviously the P lock mechanism warning again.

    I cant say how much help all of you guys have been in this. I am highly mechanical, but I admit (while I may pull it off) a lot of this is new to me. I will take a look into the wire testing as mentioned, and go from there. Thanks again
     
    #7 evallded, Dec 3, 2017
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  8. evallded

    evallded Junior Member

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    A little update if someone can help me here. I had a helper in the garage today and through pulling the P Con fise I was a ble to reset the system and get it to go into ready mode. While on jackstands, the car in drive (contemplating the Ferris Beuhler scenario) I had her press the gas pedal down to get the tires spinning but....

    The passenger tire was spinning intermittently. Sometimes not turning at all. Now I have a bit of experience with posi VS non, drive systems. But shouldn't both tires in the front be completely driven? And is it possible this was merely caused by the traction control (since the car was off the ground)?
     
    #8 evallded, Dec 3, 2017
  9. Elektroingenieur

    Elektroingenieur Senior Member

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    I suppose that’s possible. DTC C0200 (in your photo) is “Front Speed Sensor RH Circuit,” but that may just be from running the vehicle without all four wheels on the ground. I realize it’s some work to raise and lower the car without a lift, but I’d suggest this process:
    • Write down the current and stored DTCs for reference
      (or save a copy of the Health Check output from Techstream)
    • Clear the DTCs using Techstream
    • Take the car on a brief road test
    • Check again for DTCs
    • If DTCs or other symptoms are present, troubleshoot per the Repair Manual
     
    #9 Elektroingenieur, Dec 3, 2017
  10. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Isn't this normal as it's probably the traction control taking over?
     
    #10 JC91006, Dec 3, 2017
  11. evallded

    evallded Junior Member

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    That is why I am asking, I am unclear on how it would respond. But would the traction control only affect 1 side if it is the TC?
     
    #11 evallded, Dec 3, 2017
  12. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    I'm not qualified enough to answer that, but surely someone soon will be able to chime in
     
    #12 JC91006, Dec 3, 2017
  13. evallded

    evallded Junior Member

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    I get it. I am just trying to rule out/in a possible burnt winding in the transaxle. Though I believe that may have its own or different codes
     
    #13 evallded, Dec 3, 2017
  14. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Burnt winding would have a different code, and it would have a whining sound.

    I'm thinking the traction control provides more power to the side that has more traction (as it's detecting it). Therefore it should spin at different rates
     
    #14 JC91006, Dec 3, 2017
  15. evallded

    evallded Junior Member

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    That would make sense.
     
    #15 evallded, Dec 3, 2017
  16. evallded

    evallded Junior Member

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    So I got the PAWL motor out. It only took me absolutely forever to get that top bolt out. I dont see any obvious signs of an issue but I know you might not necessarily. There is some corrosion on the connectors to the plug as this motor sat out of a car for at least a year (covered) and there are a couple spots that are dirty with what looks like oil but I donthonestly know, nor can I imagine how that could have happened. Here are a couple pics. I am hoping to replace this anyway but if anyone can weigh in on this......I think I will clean up those nasty connector pins and bolt it back in to see if that helps

    Again guys all the help so very much appreciated!!
     

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    #16 evallded, Dec 3, 2017
  17. ericbecky

    ericbecky Hybrid Battery Hero

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    Can you describe how you got that top bolt out?
     
    #17 ericbecky, Dec 3, 2017
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  18. evallded

    evallded Junior Member

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    Ughhhh.....I literally spent 2 hours on just that bolt. But this was the break down

    Removed tire, put car on stands, already had the wiper, cowl, and metal part under cowl removed so I put my light on the top. spent quite some time trying with my good ratchet and a t30 bit with adapter but it was too thick. Tried unclipping the rubber boot that covering the steering linkage but that made it worse. tried with a long allen wrench but couldn't solve it. Welded a cheap t30 bit to an old wrench the weld was weak and broke. Eventually seeked out my thinnest 1/4" ratchet and my mac torx sockets and eventually grabbed it just enough to pop it just an 1/8 of a turn. I am assuming I got lucky with it because after breaking them loose they were able to be backed off by hand. but I would recommend a long thin wrench and properly weldingin a t-30 bit. It is about the only thing I can imagine that would reach it well
     
    #18 evallded, Dec 3, 2017
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  19. evallded

    evallded Junior Member

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    Well this story has come to a happy ending. I was correct in assuming the other 2 codes were from it being off the ground. I got the PAWL motor off the tranny and cleaned up the pins with some deoxit and swabbed the whole thing out with a swab and decided I would half bolt it on to give it a shot and all the codes cleared and we are back on the road.

    I expected to have to swap the tranny so this was a pleasant surprise!! On the other hand removing that thing was a moth#$%^$#@!! and I dont reccomend it, haha. Thanks everyone for the help and now onto the next project!
     
    #19 evallded, Dec 4, 2017
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  20. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    You've probably noticed that you can turn your steering wheel even while the car is off, where for decades a locking steering column was the mandatory anti-theft measure. In your Prius, the park actuator plays that role, mounted in such a way that Clyde Carthief isn't really going to wriggle under your car and have it off in five minutes and drive away. Sounds like the engineers did their job.

    It's also a switched-reluctance motor—no brushes, and no simply two-wiring it to a battery to make it unpark. Basically, the transmission control ECU needs to know the rotor position and which coils to send current through in the right sequence to make it spin. Clyde could probably build a black box to do that, maybe starting with a spare hacked ECU, but your casual joyrider might rather hotwire some other car.

    -Chap
     
    #20 ChapmanF, Dec 4, 2017
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