Photo or Diagram for rear emergency brake shoes with EU rear disc brakes?

Looking at the pictures from mine and drawing some conclusions:

They probably only make one type of top front spring 46550G. So (top of it) is hooked from the top one side and bottom from another.

Rear top spring 46550A is hooked (on bough sides) from top (as in the diagram) which means that you need different spring on different sides.

47613E or 47614 is drawn wrong on the diagram anyways. You shouldn’t be able to properly fit it the wrong way as one side has narrow slot where front brake shoe fits. Another side as has wide slot where rear shoe and leaver (that the cable is attaches to) fit. Outsides of the slots are in line. But I think the hole that you talk about is where hook of rear top spring (46550A) goes into.

 

There’s no automatic adjuster. Just turn the adjuster tight (though the hole in the brake disc+drum) after assembling and then turn it down enough that wheel rotates freely. Wear on the parking brake shows is minimal so you shouldn’t need to adjust it for a long time.

 

Sorry but I’m not sure if I understand the problem. Could you explain a bit more? But no matter what you should never have to sand/grind the pads.

If there’s extra room for one pad and not enough room for another you should just push the caliper sideway on the sliders to get more room for the pad that does not fit.


First of all which brake calipers you have? There are two types:

First type:

Not very good instruction video as they don’t clean or lubricate anything and let the caliber hang from the hose.

For second type Akebono I could not find a instructuons for a Prius but this is the exact same setup on some Corollas, RAV4s or Celicas.
Front and rear brake pad change - Workshop Submissions - Toyota Owners Club - Australia
But again it doesn’t show how to clean or lubricate anything. You can probably find a lot better guide somewhere.

Did you put the brakes in service mode by Brake service or disconnecting the 12V battery?

 

Our daughter's Pilot has similar rear brake setup: disc brake with a small incorporated drum brake. Interesting, I guess the drum brake should last the life of the vehicle, since it's only used for parking function. Funny thing, drum brakes, even when they're THE rear brake, seem to last pretty much forever. Our son's 06 Civic has 240K kms, rear drum brakes still fine last time I checked. It was getting to be a bear getting the drum off though, due to rust on the hub. I check shoe thickness, drum inside diameter, lube the shoe contact points with backing plate, done.

 

I'm not sure what you mean, when you say "rotates". There's two bolts holding the caliper on, they go through ears on the caliper, into threaded holes in the caliper pins. Remove one of those bolts, say the lower one, and you can only rotate the caliper up and off the pads, pivoting on the upper caliper pin. Remove both bolts though, and then you can lift the caliper clear of the rotor, and you'll be able to pull both caliper pins out the holes their in, in the caliper mounting bracket. Clean and relube (say with SilGlyde Brake Lubricant), and they'll slide like new.

Am I helping, or completely off-base, not sure?

 

If you can get it rotated then you should be able to get it out. Just check that it’s actually rotating and not just unscrewing from the caliper. If it’s unscrewing from the caliper use something like pliers (and penetrating fluid) to get it turning and tighten it to caliper. Once you get it turning put more penetrating fluid on it and tap it with hammer and/or use pry bar to force it out. Once you get the slider out clean the hole with brake cleaner and use silicon brake lubricant to lubricate it when putting it back together.

If you want to help watch the video carefully. One of those sliding pins is not connected to caliper by bolt it just threads into the caliper that’s why it’s not removed in the video.

 

Ok, I see. Around 2:40. Sorry.

 

You might be there?

Or, if you manage to get everything apart, chase the caliper pin holes with something like a brass bristle brush, who knows. I still don't understand that upper connection that well, should bow out.

Where's "North" btw?

 

What did you use to heat it up? With butane torch seals should be fine as the heating was concentrated to area where the slider was. If you used oxy-acetylene then it depends on how you heated it. If the seals did get damaged you can just replace them rather than entire caliper.

When putting it back together use silicon brake caliper grease and not something like wheel bearing grease. Normal grease will destroy the rubbers and then slider can seize and grease can ruin the brake pads.

 

Sil-Glyde brake lubricant is one readily available pin lube.

 

That’s not a best product for that use. It’s really designed for the brake caliber (or brake cylinder) seals.

From Biltema this is a lot better product:
Jarrusatularasva - Jarru Auto Turvallisuus - Biltema

You can use that on all the sliding points of drum brakes and on the adjuster threads. Also on the sliding pins of disc brakes and the sliding points where the edged of brake pads slide. Just don’t put it on friction surfaces.