I apologize if this is already here, but I couldn't find anything related. Summarily, I have two 2006 prii. One is wrecked, and I bought another while repairing the first. The replacement was one owner, all dealer maintained, new dorman HV battery. I used the second prius to jumpstart the wrecked one. It drove home that day, and the next day fine. Sat the third day, but the fourth day the dash lit up indicating battery failure. The toyota dealer confirmed this, so the dorman replacement (only 8 months, 25k miles old) is on the way. I took the battery out of the wrecked one, which I drove that day (just a couple things left to finish it) before swapping, and KNOW the battery is good. The indicators returned even with this known good battery in the replacement prius. Could I have fried the hybrid ecu, or another component, during the jumpstart? Yes I was an idiot and had it running during the jumping. I hope to have the issue resolved before the new battery arrives. It is not the 12 volt. Open voltage is about 12.75 (after having the radio on for an hour), running is about 14V. It also is only about 6 months old from toyota. I'm tempted to cannibalize the wrecked one, but it's so close to finished, and I hope to sell one soon.
2006 batteries are 12 years old. Even known "good" batteries for 1 day can be a known "bad" battery the next day. They lose their ability to keep a charge and the weak modules will self discharge. So the longer the battery is sitting, the more it'll discharge to the point the ECU will pick up a failure. Dorman batteries are one of the worse batteries you can buy. That's why they have only a 12 month warranty now, down from 3 years when they first started.
Welcome. Bummer! If you are sure you reinserted the orange safety plug correctly (in, fold down, slide handle) and you have a P0A80 code, and the 12V battery is good (14V while running means nothing), then I'd say you need another hybrid battery, preferably NOT a Dorman.
I do not believe it has been established that the OP has a bad battery fault code with the newly installed battery. The dash warning lights may be similar but that does not guarantee the same problem exists. I suggest the OP needs to retrieve the fault codes now to be sure about the current problem.
Speaking of semantics, there is no such thing as a NEW Dorman battery. All are battery packs repaired with used modules. The bus bars may be new but they only conduct the power stored in the used modules. Remanufactured battery packs are generally not dependable. Some have had several replacements within a year. The only source for a new pack is from Toyota although some independent shops are reselling packs purchased from dealers. The best DIY option is @2k1Toaster 's kit of new cells, basically assembling a new pack with a different module design. See the link in my signature for details.
Prodigyplace and jerrymildred, Times change... I'm guessing that we may see NEW batteries from Dorman. I've already begun seeing it with other large non-OEM suppliers.
Studibakre, Since you are running your car with a used battery, you may want to invest in diagnostic tools. Cost you less than $75. - Android tablet/phone - Elm 327 Bluetooth OBDII reader - Torque Pro app This way you can read and clear codes, see hybrid battery data, and more. Will be especially helpful when diagnosing problems. Feel free to call me about your recent issues. I'm curious about clarifying about the failed pack and how you got to this point.
Double-check the orange safety plug; so easy to miss the last (third) step and not complete the circuit. If that doesn't work, this is a long shot but it's easy and free since you have two plugs: try the other one. And yes, an especially old battery can be fine one minute and fail the next. BTDT Finally, read the codes as it could be something else.
Update to the issues. That toyota battery that was good, failed. I rebuilt it myself (I have extensive electrical background and had it well within spec). It worked great for about another 200 miles, lights returned. Dealer couldn't diagnose since the battery failed again (something else eating them) Now, I installed a "new" dorman battery. 109.6 miles then the lights returned, was able to get to a toyota dealer and had a great tech who actually gave me proper info. Codes present: p3000/123 p0a85 (this one is new) c1310 and c1311 The HV battery checked out as okay, but it is dorman so not the greatest. Freeze Frame Data Speed: 83 mph RPM 2624 coolant temp: 185 Block 1: 17.27 2: 17.29 3:17.16 4: 17.16 5:17.24 6:17.23 7: 17.08 8: 17.09 9: 16.95 10: 16.98 11: 16.91 12: 16.90 13: 16.99 14: 17.08 Load: 85.0 +B 14.000 battery state of charge 57.0 delta soc 0.0 battery pack current val -44.29 intake air temp: 90 VMF fan motor voltage: 13.8 12v batter: 14.0 Charge control value: -25.0 Discharge control value: 21.0 cooling fan mode: 1 ecu control mode: 0 charge control signal: on equal charge out relay signal off eqtr charge perm signal off standby blower request off Battery temp TB1: 96.8 TB2: 96.4 TB3: 95.2 (will get another warranty exchange) So far the conclusion is either the main relay within the inverter itself, or the HV ECU has failed. The surge from jumpstarting the other car likely fried one of the two. With the constant issues of failing to charge the "new" batteries until they fail, not operating the fan except in high speed when overtemp is reached, and resetting everything giving another 100 miles of normal operation, I'm leaning towards the ecu, which could be failing to control the fan as well. (or that could be a missed plug after pulling the battery and rechecking 12 times the past month and getting frustrated). I have the other, also 2006, which I've decided the two will be merged into one great car, the rest parted out and/or scrapped. Is it possible to replace the relay within the inverter itself? The relay within the battery pack is the third one, so likely not that. Can I take the hybrid ecu out of the other car, since they're the same year, and pair? This car is much better body wise, and mechanically.